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Old 05-26-2010, 04:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The longer valve spring is a cocker valve spring I believe. The shorter uncolored one looks like one of my many Sheridan valve springs.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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To properly heat-treat a spring, look into the properties of AISI 1065 or 1085, the likely choice for material.

You can temper it by heating it to 900F (cherry red), then quenching. You can then temper it at any temperature over about 250F and up to 500F, for 2 hours or so. Higher tempering heats lead to softer springs.

In theory, one could get any 'music wire' (AISI 1065) spring of the right size and shape, and make a spring kit by tempering each differently. That's a lot of work, though.
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Old 05-31-2010, 05:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Where the heck do I get these springs anyway
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Old 05-31-2010, 05:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Where the heck do I get these springs anyway
The buy-sell-trade section is a good start!

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Old 06-03-2010, 12:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Powertube with ID larger than .189" (4,8mm) does not exists?
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The spring description here is nearly useless, because there is not mentionet number of coils, what is one of the most important variable.

The tempering or annealing or the material is commonly not interesting for us, because most of the manufacturers using the same, most common spring steel with most approved heat treatment and the characteristics of the concrete spring is given by differences in diameter of the wire or / and number of coils. The other dimensions are commonly given by the dimensions of other parts of the marker.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:31 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The spring description here is nearly useless, because there is not mentionet number of coils, what is one of the most important variable.

The tempering or annealing or the material is commonly not interesting for us, because most of the manufacturers using the same, most common spring steel with most approved heat treatment and the characteristics of the concrete spring is given by differences in diameter of the wire or / and number of coils. The other dimensions are commonly given by the dimensions of other parts of the marker.
It would be useful to have a full set measured properly.

I posted the photos above as they do show the number of coils. Perhaps that, added to the other data, will help.
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:46 AM   #18 (permalink)
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To define a spring, assuming they're all made to standard conventions (music wire, properly tempered, all as-wound, etc) the crucial aspects are wire thickness, a diameter (centerline, maximum, or minimum, as if we know the wire thickness we can figure out the others), height, and number of coils.

From here we can determine the spring constant, and everything else we want to know, right up to fatigue cycles. So if you have some calipers, slap em on those spring wires!
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:50 AM   #19 (permalink)
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FYI, as 3022 has pointed out in another thread, improving efficiency of a Nelson gun is linked to higher flowing powertubes.

I discovered recently you can bore out powertubes to higher specs and I've started by drilling a #4 Lapco to #6 specs. Details are in this thread: Drilling out Powertubes

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Old 08-27-2010, 08:19 AM   #20 (permalink)
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FYI, as 3022 has pointed out in another thread, improving efficiency of a Nelson gun is linked to higher flowing powertubes.

I discovered recently you can bore out powertubes to higher specs and I've started by drilling a #4 Lapco to #6 specs. Details are in this thread: Drilling out Powertubes
Is that because you already have a #4 handy?
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