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Old 12-09-2011, 01:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I totally missed all this I never knew it was stickied I just found it !!!Thanks !!!
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by resistance16 View Post
Wow!! And now I know.....And knowledge is power!!!
Ditto!
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice Info
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Last edited by Furion; 01-11-2012 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Superb piece of information. This is what I like about these forums. I happily remember using muzzle breaks waaaaay back in the day of playing unported pumps. Thank you for bringing back those memories, and as stated, thanks for that superb piece of info.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Generally muzzle brakes, porting, bigger second barrel diametres, linear rifling (paralel grooves inside of barrel) - that all does the same thing only by different way.

The most important effect is that they cut down the "pop" of the presured gas leaving the barrel after ball - you need release the gas after ball, decrease the pressure behind them gradually, before the ball leaves barrel muzzle and releases them instanty with big "pop". That reduces the sound signature of the marker... but it looks so that it even improves the marker performance a little - raising the consistency and accuracy a little... at least in ideal circumstances.

(Originally I was not fan of such like inovations (KISS principle), but after some tests and real experiences I have changed my mind.)

Porting is simple way how you can reduce the pressure difference on muzzle end. Optimal porting looks like "muzzle brake"... but the effect of the "muzzle brake" is often insufficient - best effect you have here with big number of small holes - big holes working similar like barrel end - and the space for them on end of barrel is insufficient. You need spread out the holes on barrel lenght... and you need make a lot of holes.

For example I own both 14" and 16" JJ Ceramic barrels. They are one of the most quitest barrels... porting consist here from 96 holes with 2,0mm / .079" ID. But using the 16" on my Sterling Bronze, I have found that even this number is insufficient. So I have entlarged the number to total 204 holes:



...and it was far better. The marker is now a far more silent (on 80 ft you can commonly not hear the shot) and it looks so that the performance has been not affected (at least not negatively).

Other experience I have with one of my tunned PGPs - I have modded him with "hidden porting" (Hidden porting for classic Sheridan pumps



There are now total 38 holes with 2,0mm / .079" ID. It is old PGP which has short 6" barrel, so the porting reduces the unported part after barrel chamber to ~4". But interesting is that the efficiency of the marker has been not affected - velocity graph of the marker after and before:



- surprisingly it looks even so, that it has raised the consistency and efficiency of the marker a little.

So from my point of view:
- conventional muzzle brake is compromise between unported and ported barrels
- porting is not optimal, but efficient way how reduce the sound signature significantly and raise the performance of the marker a little
- even markers with small barrel lenght can use porting like advantage
- porting is big problem when is raining or when you need clean the paint break in barrel
- perhaps the best will be barrel without porting, but with paralel rifling in the last ~1/3-1/2 of the barrel lenght and bigger second ID in the last 1" of barrel.

Last edited by 3022; 05-19-2013 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Cool read. Love mcb :P
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Old 02-05-2017, 05:49 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Wow, just found this. The title seems a little deceiving since the content is more about general barrel performance as opposed to CCI muzzle breaks only. Title change?

To backup what The shootist said with what I remember of punkworks tests circa 2009.

I'll update if there are any inaccuracies.

Punkworksr results as I remember them:
Ideal bore length: 8-10 inches
Ideal porting length: 2-4 inches
Ideal total barrel length: 10-14 inches
Ideal overbore match: +0.005 from "just slips through" paint test everyone uses
(Ex: .684 paintball size, .689 overbore is ideal)
Ideal underbore match: -0.005 from "just slips through" paint test
(Ex: .684 paintball size, .679 underbore is ideal)
Danger zone underbore: -0.010 from "just slips through" test
(Ex: .684 paintball size, .674 will likely start popping paint)
Performance of best vs worst barrels: very small performance difference
Biggest observed performance difference: barrels with sharp edges or defects on the inside

I don't think they ever talked about minimum bore length.

My own observations:
This might also explain why CCI barrels and long underbore barrels (like a .678 lurker barrel) that are 8-10" before porting shoot so well.

Looking at the few barrels I have (CCI 8" with muzzle break, J&J 12" 2-piece, Proto 2- piece 14", CP 12" one piece, Gog eNMEy stock 10" one piece), it looks like most of them start porting before the barrel reaches that 8"minimum. Adding a TechT iFit kit adds another 1 3/4 inches which pushes most of the barrel backs into the 8-10 threshold. So the iFit might have that added bonus of additional non - ported barrel length along with low bore sizing for ball retention. Maybe not the perfect solution, but not bad for a quick and simple adjustment to existing equipment.

Last edited by Bang*Bang**; 02-05-2017 at 06:00 AM.
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Old 02-05-2017, 10:22 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang*Bang** View Post
My own observations:
This might also explain why CCI barrels and long underbore barrels (like a .678 lurker barrel) that are 8-10" before porting shoot so well.

Looking at the few barrels I have (CCI 8" with muzzle break, J&J 12" 2-piece, Proto 2- piece 14", CP 12" one piece, Gog eNMEy stock 10" one piece), it looks like most of them start porting before the barrel reaches that 8"minimum. Adding a TechT iFit kit adds another 1 3/4 inches which pushes most of the barrel backs into the 8-10 threshold. So the iFit might have that added bonus of additional non - ported barrel length along with low bore sizing for ball retention. Maybe not the perfect solution, but not bad for a quick and simple adjustment to existing equipment.
That's a solid observation that I don't disagree with. One of my favorite and most efficient setups from years past always included a 680 Lapco bore sizer then a mid length small to medium bore barrel like a; 10.5" Lapco, 10" Dye, etc. The sizer added about 2", were marvelously smooth, and added an ideal radiused step into the barrel at the breech. Seriously, the finish on the insides of ones I have exceeds almost any barrel I've seen.

In years past, when paint ran bigger and had thicker shells, we'd squeeze anything but really huge paint through those sizers. While to short to match the control bore theory, the thought was that all paint is slightly out of round. That ball is squeezed a bit to be round as possible, filling the bore no gaps, when the blast of air hits it. Thus no tenancy for early rotation in the bore. I know we couldn't get away with that much of an underbore for the full length of the barrel. When freaks came out we found breaks occurring a few inches down. Of course freak inserts aren't as smooth as Lapco's sizers.
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