Dropout phantom leaking down barrel - Page 2

ant · 01-29-2012, 12:37 AM

Its supposed to be seated in the brass cup before you assemble it, thats the most likely problem. If it doensn't seat properly, it will always leak

-=ArchAngel=- · 01-29-2012, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coastermaniac

You mean this ?

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...8/DSC_0134.jpg

This was screwed in

EDIT: Or if you mean that the cup seal is the little plastic ring that fit's inside that brass part I don't see how it is ''Stuck'' since it is threaded on the power tube itself

the plastic ring isnt suppose to be threaded onto the power tube itself. Its suppose to fit into the brass cup.

Boone · 01-29-2012, 03:48 AM

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...am_labeled.jpg

In my experience it's common for the cup seal (34) to come out of the cup (33) during dis assembly, as it has for you. Try this:

Unscrew the cup seal (with the brass eyelet) from the power tube (28), and put the cup seal and eyelet back into the cup seal. Smear a small amount of oil on the cup seal and sealing face of the valve seat (31) and make sure they are both clean of any debris or burrs. Make sure TPC and cup seal are screwed together firmly. They don't need to be cranked down or anything, just make sure they're not loose.

The list of possible problems:
-Power tube is not screwed all the way in to the cup seal causing inconsistent seating
-Power tube is broken (usually happens at threads, does not appear to be the case based on your pictures)
-Cup seal is worn out and needs replacement (causes true leakage down the barrel)
-As CJ noted, valve seat oring is leaking (causes leakage from the base of the valve, which can easily be mistaken for leaking down the barrel.)
-Burrs, debris, damage on the valve seat sealing face (surface which comes in contact with the cup seal)

Good luck, hope this helps!

Coastermaniac · 01-29-2012, 03:13 PM

Well gentleman I have fixed the leak and it shoots really well, I just changed the whole powertube assembly for another one and it didn't have any issue.

Have to find out why I broke half my balls but this is most likely my paint, plus I need to get used to the rock and cock reload.

Thank you for your help guys!

CJOttawa · 01-30-2012, 09:34 AM

The open TPC is very hard on paint. You might consider putting the stock TPC back in. I suspect that will solve your broken paint issue.

Also: you might edit your profile to show your location. It helps with things like this as temperature can affect your gun.

Coastermaniac · 01-30-2012, 07:28 PM

That might be it, I live in quebec, canada, it wasn't exactly cold, maybe -10 celsius, that surely didn't help. I'll try switching to the stock tpc tomorrow and shoot a couple rounds

Thanks

01-29-2012, 12:37 AM	#11 (permalink)
ant Hell in a handbasket Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: the peoples republic of brisbane	Its supposed to be seated in the brass cup before you assemble it, thats the most likely problem. If it doensn't seat properly, it will always leak __________________ Never trust a man; who, when left alone in a room with a tea cozy, doesn't try it on When confused, when in doubt, Run in circles, scream and shout

01-29-2012, 03:48 AM	#13 (permalink)
Boone MCB Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Southeast Michigan	http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...am_labeled.jpg In my experience it's common for the cup seal (34) to come out of the cup (33) during dis assembly, as it has for you. Try this: Unscrew the cup seal (with the brass eyelet) from the power tube (28), and put the cup seal and eyelet back into the cup seal. Smear a small amount of oil on the cup seal and sealing face of the valve seat (31) and make sure they are both clean of any debris or burrs. Make sure TPC and cup seal are screwed together firmly. They don't need to be cranked down or anything, just make sure they're not loose. The list of possible problems: -Power tube is not screwed all the way in to the cup seal causing inconsistent seating -Power tube is broken (usually happens at threads, does not appear to be the case based on your pictures) -Cup seal is worn out and needs replacement (causes true leakage down the barrel) -As CJ noted, valve seat oring is leaking (causes leakage from the base of the valve, which can easily be mistaken for leaking down the barrel.) -Burrs, debris, damage on the valve seat sealing face (surface which comes in contact with the cup seal) Good luck, hope this helps! __________________ Feedback

01-29-2012, 03:13 PM	#14 (permalink)
Coastermaniac Rec Poster Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Quebec, Canada	Well gentleman I have fixed the leak and it shoots really well, I just changed the whole powertube assembly for another one and it didn't have any issue. Have to find out why I broke half my balls but this is most likely my paint, plus I need to get used to the rock and cock reload. Thank you for your help guys! __________________ Feedback: MCB: 2/0/0 http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html

01-30-2012, 07:28 PM	#16 (permalink)
Coastermaniac Rec Poster Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Quebec, Canada	That might be it, I live in quebec, canada, it wasn't exactly cold, maybe -10 celsius, that surely didn't help. I'll try switching to the stock tpc tomorrow and shoot a couple rounds Thanks __________________ Feedback: MCB: 2/0/0 http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html

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01-30-2012, 09:34 AM	#15 (permalink)
CJOttawa Immune to sales tactics. Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Canada's National Capital	The open TPC is very hard on paint. You might consider putting the stock TPC back in. I suspect that will solve your broken paint issue. Also: you might edit your profile to show your location. It helps with things like this as temperature can affect your gun.