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Old 01-09-2008, 11:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I could not agree more Thykle - thanks for the input.I too am now convinced the rings and maybe even the inserts are going to do little in the long run when put up against a full length properly matched Barrel and paint.
I always loved nelson in the old days and am hoping things have'nt changed much - listening to my plight and shipping out a sample pack of their full line was a great start. otherwise, I have get come across a larger diameter ball that was'nt field grade

Is there a good "How too" on this valve bobbing bit. the wire in the hard line is easy enough but I'm having a hard time thinking of a way to fill the space in the valve what with the springs and movement
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Old 01-09-2008, 11:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Bobbing a valve isn't hard if you have the proper tools. Everyone owns a hacksaw or can get one from HD or Lowes cheap enough. The real problem is drilling out the new hole for the air fitting and threading both it and the hole left in the back from bobbing the valve. Drilling a straight hole into a round surface isn't easy without the proper tools. Here's a couple pictures of pics of what one looks like finished.





I do agree with Thkyle about having a controlled bore the entire length of the barrel. My only issue with the micro shot is .684 where the smallest freak insert is .679. The field I play at uses Draxxus which is a very small paint so I need the smaller bored freak.

If you don't feel you can do the bob job yourself talk to Twinky at O'Dells or Rainman. They can bob the valve quickly and cheaply for you. Twinky did the one you see above and I got it back within a week of sending it to him.
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Old 01-10-2008, 11:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Ok I get it now - I went in and looked at the valve real close last night and man - theres allot of space in there! Actually - chopping the sucker off would not be to big a deal - i do run a fab shop, and know all the yocal machinests as well - sounds like a possible winter project! are those gauges pretty easy to come by?

On another note - What is the paste like stuff that comes on the threads of all the air fittings that helps seal them up as they are threaded - I've never really seen anything like that the hardware stores or is it right in front of me?

Thanks for the pics unimoose they are indeed worth a thousand words
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Old 01-10-2008, 11:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
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If it's white paste then it is teflon... if it is the red dried crusty stuff, that is Red Loctite that has been allowed to dry prior to the part being threaded into the hole.... allows for both a good seal and the ability to remove the fitting later with out gowing through the hassle of separating Loctited parts.

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Old 01-11-2008, 10:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Gauges are pretty easy to come by at most paintball stores or sites. The only issue you might have is finding one that is up to 800 or so psi. The phantom is high pressure where most guns today run on low. The gauge I bought for that valve the manager of the store actually had to pull out of his own parts bin...

Some people will tell you that they like to watch the gauge and see when they need to change 12 grams. CO2 runs at a constant rate and then drops quickly unlike a nitro tank. You'll be shooting along with your gauge reading 850psi or so and then all of a sudden will drop to 400. Not much notice there as your 400psi shot will go about 10 feet.
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Old 01-12-2008, 04:42 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Old 01-12-2008, 06:55 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I watch the gauge for temperature fluctuations. If the pressure from the Co2 is too high or too low you can have velocity problems. Also, it lets me know that I might need to re-chrono if the PSI has gone from from 800 to 1000+ (1200 PSI Gauge).
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