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Old 10-31-2009, 11:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i was trying some different cocker valve springs and keeping them the same length. figured the extra length would = stiffer spring of same length. i do have the regular light main spring kit but mine has blue. is yellow lighter? by shooting chrony went caputts so i have to replace that first before i can start tuning.
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yup yellow is much lighter,but it all has to be done togeather lots of trial and error
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Does the strength of the mainspring make a difference if there shot at the same velocity? Like would a yellow mainspring be more efficient at 280fps than a blue mainspring also at 280fps, with the same setup otherwise?

It seems to me that they would be equally efficient, but everyone always says that a strong valve spring and weak mainspring is best.
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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lightest possible main and stiffest possible valve.

it works like this if your using a stiffer main spring say blue your inducing more hammer bounce wich is less efficient,same with a sniper set up but you hear it more on a sniper.

when the sear drops and the hammer flies back to smack the base of the powertube it opens the valve,the hammer then bounces back from the valve spring pressure,then back the other direction from the main spring pressure. wich means you can inadvertantly knock the valve open a few more times...this is just wasted gas as the ball is allready being fired.

it all works as a team
the light hammer has less inertia,the stiff valve spring snaps the valve shut quickly and with a light main spring and light hammer it doesnt have enough strength to fight the stiff valve and bounce open the valve.
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Old 11-01-2009, 07:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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i have enough grip on it so thats no problem. one thing i must work out is to put the 10rnd feed under a slight angle. i have put a small o-ring between the feedblock and the body, but want to make something a bit more permanent.

i'm also looking at making something like the gargoyle has in the valve body to make it more efficient. gg: can you please make some picture about this part for me?

i don't care if i cant shoot fast because i'm becoming a 1 ball bastard

i also have a old hamer that i'm thinking of milling a bit (if it's not to hard to do)

gr
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Filling the valve body will also assist in better efficiency. Just not too much or you will get a counter effect.
Wish someone still sold the nelson spring kits....
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
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madmann cocker spring kits would work? i thought i saw that somewhere.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogged_Gurl View Post
lightest possible main and stiffest possible valve.

it works like this if your using a stiffer main spring say blue your inducing more hammer bounce wich is less efficient,same with a sniper set up but you hear it more on a sniper.

when the sear drops and the hammer flies back to smack the base of the powertube it opens the valve,the hammer then bounces back from the valve spring pressure,then back the other direction from the main spring pressure. wich means you can inadvertantly knock the valve open a few more times...this is just wasted gas as the ball is allready being fired.

it all works as a team
the light hammer has less inertia,the stiff valve spring snaps the valve shut quickly and with a light main spring and light hammer it doesnt have enough strength to fight the stiff valve and bounce open the valve.
That has to be the best explanation of springing I have ever heard
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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thanx, hope it helps
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:21 AM   #20 (permalink)
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How much do you have to remove from each spring on the mad man sets?
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