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Old 09-25-2010, 10:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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like everyone is saying it sounds like your hammer lug is out of adjustment, drop it till it catches the sear then make 1/4 to 1/2 turn adjustments till the AT trips close to where is suppose to, then just tweak it till its tripping when the sled/block is 1/8inch out
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Are you saying that the pump handle moves with it aired up or not aired up?

I wouldn't worry about it until you get it timed correctly.

When you cleaned it, did you remove the hammer? If so, then it's probably the timing (as most people have suggested).

If you didn't remove the hammer or adjust the lug, then let us know...that's key to helping diagnose the problem.
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
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disconnect the autotrigger arm and see if you can get the gun to function correctly...sounds like the flat of the autotrigger cam isnt sitting right against the trigger if your able to pull the trigger and move the pump
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:34 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I think we should slow down and get the whole story here. How much of the gun was taken apart for cleaning? If the internals were not pulled out or messed with, then the timing doesn't make sense...if they were, then timing is the likely culprit.
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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First - we have a red herring. You don't need a cocking rod to judge when the hammer is engaging. Forget this portion as to not confuse you.

Second - I am not sure what you mean when you say the pump is moving backwards when you pull the trigger. If you had air in the marker and were dry firing it when the pump was moving backwards - this is normal for pump markers. The blow back caused by the air leaving the barrel of the marker will cause the bolt (connected to the pump) move backwards.

If this is happening when you pull the trigger without air - that one is beyond me. I have never seen it.

Spoon is correct, part of the answer here is for us to know what all you took apart. However, if it is simply a matter of a maladjusted lug - there is no set depth to set it at - they have to be set for each marker (although they don't differ a bunch from marker to marker).

Take a look at the Series 6 manual in the stickies above - or watch the video on how to time the marker. There is little difference between the S6 and the S6.5. The only difference you are going to see is how you get the wrench to the lug in order to adjust it.

Here is what I do. Take the bolt out - put the bolt pin back in. This will allow you to cock the marker and fire it AND allow you to get a wrench into the lug without too much work.

Back the lug out (counterclockwise) one full turn. Hold the trigger and slowly pump the marker. It should fire. If it does fire - Pump the marker again, hold down the trigger and slowly pump the marker forward. What you want is for the marker to fire, in auto-trigger, with the back block 1/8th inch from the body. You want this gap because without it - the marker will fire too early causing a loss in FPS (because the bolt is not aligned in the breach properly) - or not fire at all - like you are seeing.

If the gap is too large (over 1/8th inch) then lower the lug some (clockwise) and try again. If the gap is too small - raise the lug some (counterclockwise) and try again.

If none of this is working - you have messed something else up - and we would need to know more to help you further.

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Old 09-26-2010, 10:19 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Yes, Mr. T is correct! This is how you do it on a T-2 as well. If there is no gap on the sled when you auto trigger slowly as you slide the pump handle forward. The lug is too low. Take the bolt out put the pin in and test this. Raise the lug a half turn or less at a time until it works. Now look down the feed neck. If when you put the bolt back in you see a space between the front of the bolt and the front of the feed neck/body, your lug is to high. This will give you headaches like breaking paint in the breech or chops and blow up the hopper as well as velocity problems. Like Mr. T states 1/8 of space between the sled and the body/breech. But again did you remove the hammer when you cleaned it? If so I am willing to bet this is the issue. And the good news is, it's an easy fix! Feyd.................................
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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did you take the auto lever apart ? If so, it can be assembled backwards.That can make the cam engage the trigger at a different angle.
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:41 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Wow your on line on a Sunday! Looking at paintball stuff! I'm impressed! Feyd........
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:52 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCMachinist View Post
did you take the auto lever apart ? If so, it can be assembled backwards.That can make the cam engage the trigger at a different angle.
x2 this is what i was thinking when he said the pump moves when he pulls the trigger
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:00 PM   #20 (permalink)
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thanks people the auto trigger cam was not sitting correctly which was causing the trigger to pull the AT cam and the hammer was to far in


thank again
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