CCM Chipley Machine

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Old 12-04-2010, 09:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
a.k.a. Kazzy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Keene, NH

Suggestion - Simple(?) Part Redesign

For Starters:

I just got my S6.5 and love it so very dearly. The skeleton AT Lever, the T-handle, and the low profile feedneck are all superb updates.

Each CCM marker has it's own unique feel. I've had a S6, T2, and shot S5 and J2L. I must say that the S6.5 is my favorite feel--small, light, quick, rugged.

Now, my markers, no matter the brand, get adorned with a Hyper 2 and a Dye Airport. I like air out the front of the ASA and the swivel fit/shim stack set-up of the hyper 2. Those swap outs are no knock at CCM (especially since the new regulator air fitting sits under the trigger guard) but rather a personal preference.

The very only thing that I would suggest updating is the feedneck collar/lever relationship.

If you look at a Dye or Plant Eclipse marker, (or even a Mini), there is one thing they all have in common...the point of tension adjustment is separate from the lever itself. The CCM lever is attached to a threaded rod that screws directly into the body of the collar.

Now, why this presents a problem is, there is fluctuation in the sizes of feednecks on hoppers even today. A sportshot or APP hopper are fairly flimsy and can be pinched a little with no negative results to make the lever sit flush against the collar. However, a rotor has a very solid feedneck and allows for no pinching to get the lever on the feedneck to align correctly.

The result is, my rotor with my low profile feedneck will work with the current collar, but only if the lever is placed in the lock position opposite it's intended position. It looks like a wing hanging off the back of the feedneck collar.

The reason for this is, the threads don't line up with the 'perfect' tension to keep my rotor in place. It's either too lose and the hopper falls off, or its too tight and I can't lock it down.

A simple fix, perhaps, would be to drill a clean whole straight through the collar where the threads are and slip a threaded bolt through one side and screw it into the clamp (like an Ego or a Mini) or have an adjustable fitting on one side and the current rod/lever set up on the other (like a Dye Matrix 9).

This isn't a huge deal. Anyone with my current problem can use the normal hex bolt that tightens it down to the desired tension like I've done now since the lever doesn't quite work. However, if someone ever had a problem on the field in the middle of a tournament where they needed to take their hopper off to shoot (like perhaps, Huntington Beach 2010 where Logan's rotor went down like 3 times because he bought terrible batteries) then they'd have a problem with just having the hopper locked on.

A side benefit for this, is you won't scratch up your collar like I've already done while threading the lever into the collar.

Anyway, just a thought. You know when the issues are hand are this refined and knit-picky, you've got a phenomenal product on your hands.
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what your saying definitely makes sense
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA

I don't have that problem with my rotor on my s6.5

I actually like the CCM's design better. This is because with ego and DM design, the feedneck band's anno will wear out over time. With the CCM design, only the level and the spacer's anno will over time. Thus saving the feedneck band's anno. Also keep in mind a lot of people (include myself) have custom annoing/laser engraving on the band. So the anno wear there is every unsightly.
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