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Old 09-21-2012, 08:09 PM   #721 (permalink)
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I think that one is for 22's only. I came across it and was excited at first then i saw how skinny the tube is and thought it probably wont work. I am looking for real steel now, not so sure if that will hold up on a 50 Beowulf.
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:34 PM   #722 (permalink)
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it's recoil rated for a 22, I thought you were using it for the SR1.
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:44 PM   #723 (permalink)
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No, although it would be cool. I am still not sure if it would fit the SR1 but it should. It looks like it does not use a buffer tube at all, i dont think the tube on it is big enough to slip over one. It would be neat on the SR1 but mine is all set furniture wise.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:17 PM   #724 (permalink)
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The bolt needs a full size buffer tube to slide into
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:53 PM   #725 (permalink)
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The bolt needs a full size buffer tube to slide into
That was my concern when i saw it. Its a neat little stock tho.
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:34 PM   #726 (permalink)
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Well today was a resounding success in the art and crafts division of Delta Paintball, workshop south.
Two projects off the ground, and moved forward to the point of mid completion. Hopefully more to report next weekend.
Project one revolves around SR1 video kill recording.
Project two revolves around First Strikes.
Both are fricken awesome from where I am standing.
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:47 AM   #727 (permalink)
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Nice George, can't wait to see what you guys came up with.

I got to work on dialing mine in a little bit today, unfortunately since we were at the field to practice for the TTPL I really only got maybe 20 minutes total to work on it. Got it chrono'd in and I'm still about a foot low and 6-8 inches to the left of where I want it to be but it was still good enough for me to eyeball it and almost headshot Nick, our team's young buck. If he hadn't of pulled a Neo at the last second it would have been golden. Hopefully I get a little more time to play with it this week.

As a side note, since these are still technically prototypes, I would like to take a second to step in and make my first round of suggestions for tweaks to any final "production" version, if such a thing is going to exist:

1) Integral rail. I found out today that bolting your own rail and getting it aligned right is sort of a pain in the ***. Even a little bit off and your shots are landing six feet off of the crosshair. Would be much more painless for everyone I think if the rail were just machined straight into the receiver, or if it at least came with a rail with some sort of alignment dowel to prevent any chance of a crooked mount.

2) CO2 plug could be better, leverage-wise. For Lelands it's not so bad but for shiggles we tried a few Crossmans in it and they were a bitch to get a good clean pierce and seal. Maybe instead of the loop on the end, just a 1.5-2" knurled handle? I know you can just put an allen wrench through the loop but that's one more thing to keep track of on the field and will also eventually cause anno wear.

Those are the two biggies, which really aren't that bad anyway. Thankfully I caught on early that the IVG was reversed compared to other Sniper-based guns, so chronoing in at 280 fps really only took about 3 shots.
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:48 AM   #728 (permalink)
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PR, how is your rail bolted on? What types of bolts is it using? If it uses flat socket bolts (triangular shaped if viewed from side and mount flush to surface inside a countersink) it should center itself up but if it uses flat socket (normal bolts usually with knurled heads) there will be some play.

I do agree a milled on rail would be best. Perhaps even a high rise or an option for one if the material is large enough to accommodate it. I still am deciding on my rail, i need to get one ordered.

I recommend some lube on the 12g or inside the cap to make tightening it down easier. I have a small tin of hater sauce i plan to keep on me to dip and end in every few 12g's.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:35 AM   #729 (permalink)
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To be fair, no mine isn't the best fabrication job, it's something I salvaged out of a project I attempted years ago so it still has the obvious signs of my inexperience with the mill at the time. Regardless, it mounts similar to most aftermarket ones I've seen, with a stepped slot and socket-headed cap screws, which will always have a little bit of wiggle room to throw the sight mounted to it off by that much. Hence why I suggest an integrated rail or at least one built to match with either a dowel or keyway for guaranteed alignment.

As for the CO2 knob, mine is grease, in fact it was greased already when it showed up at my door. And while Lelands are ok, and that's what I use, I just happened to use a teammate's el-cheapo 12g the other day at practice and it was a royal PITA to seal.

I'm not saying these are huge flaws or reasons not to buy, but I figured the whole point of us getting the "prototypes" is to find what works and what doesn't work so well and report back so CCM can improve their product. Those are the two biggest things I've found to suggest so far, everything else has been pretty flawless.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:35 PM   #730 (permalink)
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That C02 knob caught my eye as well but like everything SR-1 I knew there was more than meets the eye. Is it small, lite and easy to lose? Yes. But I implore you to take a closer look, the knob is in itself the work of craftsmanship. However for fear of losing it I would suggest you hook it up with a lanyard. I guess if I had a choice I would prefer it be big n beefy but that's just me.
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