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Old 02-03-2008, 08:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh I think you were just trying to start a fight. I want to let you know right now - that if we do fight I will have to repeatedly ram my face into your fist until I fall down.

You got that buddy?!

TF
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Old 02-03-2008, 11:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talfuchre View Post
HVAC,

I meant no disrespect - Just wanted to take care of the obvious before he broke out the dremel.

Is it a dust frame or a polished frame?
TF
I have a polished frame. I'm thinking that the tolerances might be off due to the anodization.

I do have a dremel, but I am going to try some 600 wet dry sand paper by hand as suggested on the cam hole.
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Have had two of them that were like that, thus the suggestion
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Old 02-04-2008, 01:45 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Good to know, Motorhead! Thanks!

What I did maybe a little differently was wrap the 600 wet sand paper around the beaver tail rod so it barely fit in the hole. I inserted it into both cam holes in the grip frame, then spun the frame around from the rod for about 30 seconds. I cleaned out the hole, checked the fit with the cam, then repeated the process decreasing the time as I got close to a smooth enough fit. I left it snug enough for the lever to stay put, but not too tight that it interferes with the pump stroke.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!
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Old 02-04-2008, 08:22 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I stand corrected.

I apologize for sounding like an I D 10 T.

I guess I am used to the PBN kiddies grabbing a dremel at the slightest hint of something not fitting. Good MXMT.

You can set the under travel screw to hold in the AT Cam and Lever. Tighten that screw until the AT doesn't move. My AT Cam will fall out if I don't have this screw assembled correctly (which is only when I am cleaning it). So you don't need to keep that that tight. However, if you are happy - leave it alone.

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Old 02-04-2008, 01:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks TF! I read the Pumpenstein.com's installation instructions on the kit about a dozen times already to make sure I did it right.

Unfortunately, the fix was short lived. I was testing it out in my garage, happily enjoying the smoothness until it got stuck realy hard. Even after backing out the understravel screw, it took a lot of effort to remove the cam... more effort than before I fixed it. After removing it, the cam hole was really scratched up inside.

It's starting to get annoying enough for me to just part out the whole marker and just buy a CCM marker that is already put together with all the bugs worked out.
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Old 02-04-2008, 01:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I think if you simply took off more material you will be okay. If a small peice of grit got in between - it would cause the galling and stickiness you experienced.

Take another thousands off and you will be fine.

TF
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Old 02-04-2008, 04:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks again TF, I did as you suggested and it seems to be working fine now.
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I've been thinking about this thread and it has puzzled me ever since I read it.I think I know what is going on.When we assemble an A/t kit or a complete marker we hand fit the cam if it doesn't fit.The hole in the grip is usually under by a few tenths.So we ream it 5 tenths over. But if we send out just a grip with no A/T we don't do that.So the customer buys the A/T later on and has issues with the fit.That's why they are tight. TA DAAA. May be we ought to open it up before ano. problem solved.We will look at it Monday.
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Old 02-09-2008, 12:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Yes, I bought the frame and auto trigger parts seperately since I already had a regular CCM pump kit.
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