A few notes on home ano
I finally got tired of looking at my old tac one rail that I always thought had been baked at some point, due to it's ugly gray color. I didn't want to sell it either in that condition (plus the holes it had re-drilled before I got it). The ano on the rail practically washed off in the first two minutes in the stripper, compared to the usual 10 minutes or so that most ano requires. It also came with some minor pitting in the original ano.
I had an old RT sight rail in black and an RT ASA in black. The idea was to dye them all a light green that was similar to the "mantis green" feed neck I had on my main minimag body. The adventure made me appreciate even more the guys that do ano professionally.
I think my biggest problem was that the rail was a 7000 series aluminum and was behaving differently from the other two parts. Couple that with a cheap Rit dye mix, and my color control went out the window. The dye was 10 parts yellow and 1 part green, but that didn't stop the tac rail from soaking up a bunch of green. Different pore size I guess.
I have to say the tac rail was a pita, but the ASA and sight rail were very well behaved. They ano'd cleanly and took dye well. I Actually had the ASA matched to the sight rail, but had to go back and try a fade to black for my grip.
I ano'd the rail three times with good current and time and still got mysterious blems that never appeared on my other parts (some in the same baths).
Considering this is really a rec ball marker for me, I'm not so disappointed. The grips have all different shades of green to tie it together. However, I will continue to prefer 6000 series aluminum to play with. :rolleyes:
Even though it doesn't match I do like the color of that rail.
Nice work, I was looking into getting into home anodizing this summer... not to steal your thread, but has anyone experimented with the Caswell Anodizing kits... They're not the cheapest, but they seem like a good place to start.
From what I've read, the Caswell kits are good. I've had trouble with Rit black powder, but the liquid did ok last time. I would use Caswell dyes if I had something that had a lot of work in it (and I didn't send it out). Color fastness is something I haven't had to worry about so far.
Thinking about the "vapor balls"; the vapors are pretty strong, but for a few parts in the garage, they aren't too noticeable. You do need a place for the drips and vapors. My space may get re-designated for tools again.
I started with the chemistry and read all the notes I could find to get an "operating envelope" on the times and concentrations. To start with, I would get the power supply requirements settled first. Bath temperatures can swing some, but I've just been using the decent weather mostly. :rolleyes:
I do have one fish tank heater for the winter.
There's another home kit available that looks similar. Let me look...
Focuser is it.
Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'd love to see it so I can get an idea of what I'm working with as far as size of the operation, etc. Detailed photos as well would be greatly appreciated.
I've been looking alot at Caswell's kits and guides as well as Newmans kits and guides. I've gotta start crunching numbers, but It seems like I could save quite a bit going with Newmans kit and picking everything else needed on my own other than dishing out 3x more for the Caswell kit.
What did you use for a power supply?
Right now I have a 10/2 amp automatic battery charger (sears) feeding an RC car battery pack charger (old BC100). If you push the start button on the RC charger, it puts out a peak voltage suitable for the number of cells on the dial. I wedge a piece of plastic tubing on top of the button and dial the current where I want it. It can do 10 amps also, but I have trouble fitting more than about 4 amps worth of parts in my Tupperware tub. :rolleyes:
This also seems to keep the automotive battery charger from cutting back automatically, even though I have never seen it perform that function. I've read that it can be a problem.
I had a 13.8vdc 12amp supply, but the regulator went out and it started supplying 18vdc in the middle of a part and must have burned one side of the transformer, since it just runs around 12 vdc and minimal current now.
I think it's looking good spider.
I'd love to do some anodizing again but I just don't have the real estate in the garage to do it properly... but man.. when I have those 3 or 4 small raw parts I want done it sure would be nice.
If going with a kit, this is one reason I would opt for Newman's stuff.
The basic and advanced kit will save most "do it yourselfers" money by not selling buckets, wire, fish tank heaters like other kits. I sell just the guide, dyes and chemicals that you can't get locally. Everything else like battery charger, battery acid, buckets, aluminum wire, heaters, etc, you can pick up cheap yourself. No need to spend a fortune on a high priced kit that includes items you may already have on hand.
Still, even some of what's in the kit isn't necessary to start out. Maybe the desmut and the sealer and a small selection of dye colors.
While it can be kind of a pain to navigate, a great resource site is finishing.com.
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