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Old 06-11-2010, 07:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Looks great, I may be able to help out with anodizing once everything gets up and running. But as for looks, I'd honestly like to see something classy, no fancy milling, etc... Something like an Automag.
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:02 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Everything but the frame could be made with relative ease in a home shop with a mill and a lathe. Anything short of that, not likely. I've tried to design as much as possible that will be doable by the majority of the home shop guys on here.

Putting it in brass would also be quite simple as the modular body is designed around 1" ID aluminum tubing. Brass tubing of a close enough size is available that these components would work inside of with minor dimensional alterations. Hell, I'll come up with a set of drawings that fit this into readily available brass tubing as well as drawings for a breech end you can solder into the tubing.
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Old 06-11-2010, 09:41 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I'm thinking brass sleeve with windows to see the aluminum under, then the aluminum milled for windows to see the bolt/piston moving back and forth.

Another quick idea that popped in my head: powerfeed, but not in the traditional sense. Have the hole drilled into the body at an angle (like a left or right feed, or even warp left or right and just mod the powerfeed part itself), then attach a powerfeed that isn't as long so that the hopper will end up as close to center as possible. And while we're at it, let's remove the need for an elbow all together! Ego feedneck mod the end of the powerfeed so all is easy! Oh how I wish I had a mill and lathe.
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Here's what I've come up with so far for a frame. The trigger group, including the trigger guard, is removable and can be swapped out for a single trigger if desired. It's shown as a mechanical frame here with an SMAV-3 mounted to the trigger group, but there is also a bracket to mount a microswitch. The front ASA is removable allowing for different options up front such as 15 degree regs or none at all for bottom fed setups.

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Old 10-09-2010, 09:49 PM   #25 (permalink)
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More images of the modular nature of the frame. All of these are shown set up as a mechanical option and not electronic, but the bracket that holds the SMAV-3 is simply swapped for a bracket that holds a microswitch.

The trigger groups lock into the frame by screwing in at the top of the group (as seen in the image in the previous post) and by a pin going through both the frame and the trigger group right below where the trigger contacts the SMAV-3.

Frame with double trigger group installed.


Frame with single trigger group installed.


Double trigger group.


Single trigger group.




We can't let this project die - whether it's brass or aluminum, mech or electro............
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:56 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Yoda, move the piviot point directly backwards about 1/8 of an inch and you've got very good trigger geometry. And you might want to change the length between the pivot and the smav-3. Mine was pretty had to press and you've got a 1:1.5 motion ratio on that setup. I'd think a 1:0.75 would be better to get some speed out of this, of course then you might actually be able to walk the trigger faster than the bolt can cycle.

I'm still looking for a new board to finish my testing because mine doesnt actually shoot all the time.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:53 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Those are 1/8" pins for reference, do you think 1/8" is still a good move, or should it be more?

That's one of the crappy trade offs with a lever, you either get a longer pull or a softer pull. No reason I can't design a set that offers each and let people choose.

How many shots do you think you've been able to take with any one of the kits? Have you noticed any deformation in the valve piston right at the main seal? I've got the same piston arrangement in my mechanical aedes valve and it is nicely smushed, but I also accidentally made it with crap grade aluminum from Lowes on a whim. I've been contemplating making the power tube out of Delrin in the hopes that it will give a slight bit and prevent any deformation in the valve tip if any is apparent. It will also be significantly faster to make.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:56 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Monotube Closed Bolt

High efficiency, built like a tank, comes stock with brass maintube with hibiscus powder coat. True MCB style; I would be interested in one, but price would be a deciding factor.

But the build looks pretty good so far. Make it a little more streamlined maybe? Also, I say we vote on grip frame angles; i.e. 45, 86, 90, Y Grip, Z Grip.

I for one would be interested in a Z/Y grip-esque mechanical semi auto/PA pump with a robust operating system, a reciprocating barrel (if it's easier/cheaper/simpler), running on low pressure, with a center feed or a stock class option.
Go with a phantom style grip setup,and then we will ahve several options of what grip we want to put on it,or is this grip gonna need to house electronics?
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:56 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Yeah scale is nice, 1/4" back would make it perfect then.

I havent noticed any deformation but since I've been battling board issues I dont think I've got more than 300 shots through the latest kit. And I have to use 300 psi it get up to velocity because my dump chamber is smaller even without any inserts.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:10 PM   #30 (permalink)
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300 psi seems pretty high, I wonder if it will drop any with a properly working board? Other thing I've considered is that there may be a slight difference in length between an Epiphany can and an Ion can that would prevent yours from opening fully. You could try sticking a shim of some kind between the can and the rear plug to hold it back slightly which will allow it to open further. On my original prototype I had the rear plug connected to the can with a threaded adapter that allowed me to use it like a variable restrictor - almost like a needle valve. It was very effective in controlling the velocity just by varying how far the piston retracted. Try a 1/16" or thinner washer maybe?

I've also switched the tail o-ring dimensions slightly to allow for 009 o-rings instead of 010, I finally had a blowout with the 010 after a few thousand shots. Probably the drastically different pressure in your Epiphany that caused it so much sooner with yours.

It can operate mechanically or electronically, but either would be problematic fitting into a Phantom style grip. Which is rather sad because it would open up so many options. Of course, it would be entirely doable if someone wanted to use a tray like you used to find on Impulses that was large enough to house the electronics (including battery), but most people seem to hate those now.
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