Custom

[Reedrick]

Recently acquired a Piranha pump from eBay. I know that I am not going to run it with a back bottle (as it's currently set up).

I don't have it in hand yet, but wanted to find out if it's easy to remove the existing tube rear CA setup and convert to side tapped with flexible hose (similar to Mac Annihilator style)-- thereby allowing a velocity adjustment behind the mainspring and allowing the config. to change into a California style setup (bottle on L-stock). My question in a nutshell is-- what do you get once you remove the rear ASA-- is that tap threaded for a hose- it looks pretty thin...

Thanks!

[Striker9]

I'm also wondering the same thing. I have a LB and it is tapped for a hard line to rear asa. Is there an adapter that would allow me to run a bottom line? If I remember correctly a cocker barb will fit.

[joelrf600r]

the piranhas had the "barbell" gas tube between the ASA and the side tap into the valve. the screws that held the barbell in place are standard 10-32 with ~1/32" holes drilled for gas passages. think of it as a primitive banjo bolt. any 10-32 barb will fit, but you'll need to somehow get full pressure in. stock piranhas aren't so good on velocity with LP.

--J

[Robertsr]

I did this with a Typhoon of mine (changed from back-bottle to side tapped). From what I recall it's wasn't too hard at all...

[Crash]

If you could find a reducer that will go into the airline screw hole that went up to 1/8th npt you would be in good shape but it would be a weak point where it threads into the body. The ones I have done I just drilled out the hole at the valve and threaded it to take a standard 1/8th in elbow.

[Wycke]

Originally Posted by Crash

If you could find a reducer that will go into the airline screw hole that went up to 1/8th npt you would be in good shape but it would be a weak point where it threads into the body. The ones I have done I just drilled out the hole at the valve and threaded it to take a standard 1/8th in elbow.

Ages ago I found such a fitting and bought 4 of them - 2 brass and 2 stainless. The brass ones both snapped from over-tightening them (guess I don't know my own strength). The stainless ones worked well. I sold that gun to Wharfrat probably 5 years ago, along with the other stainless fitting. Unfortunately, I don't even remember where I got them, but I know they exist somewhere. The typical tinker gear suppliers (Small Parts, McMaster-Carr, etc) do not have them (or, at least, they didn't back then)...I think it was a place that specialized in pneumatic fittings and they had a website, but that's all I remember.

-Chad

[Target]

I side tapped one before but this method cannot be reversed.

I removed the "barbell", rear ASA and valve.

Using a size "Q" drill bit (lettered ones are harder to find than fractional), I enlarged the hole where the hardline attached.

I then used a 1/8 NPT tap and cut threads into the body. Q is the proper sized drill for this tap.

I used a standard macroline fitting and installed it onto the gun.
Make sure that it does not protrude into the valve area too much.
I had no problems with leaking.
Some shops solder the fitting to prevent air leaks.

I sold the gun and the new owner replaced the macroline with other fittings.
Here is a pic :

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/...o=4518&cat=500

[joelrf600r]

Originally Posted by Target

I then used a 1/8 NPT tap and cut threads into the body. Q is the proper sized drill for this tap.

FYI, R is the correct size bit. the wall thickness in the bottom tube is thin enough that it probably didn't make much difference as Q is pretty close.


--J