Wood surface finish - Page 2

Brassballs · 04-09-2007, 02:08 PM

http://www.minwax.com/products/speci...ishing-wax.cfm

if you can buy miniwax up there...

Fireball · 04-10-2007, 02:55 AM

Indeed, I can get miniwax.

So, paste wax > poly? I'm just guessing that wax needs to be re-applied after a while...

Also, I've got some floor paste wax handy....is there any significant difference between different brands of waxes (or will they all give pretty much the same result?)

Thanks for everyone's input!

Brassballs · 04-10-2007, 01:12 PM

Your just wanting it to shine a bit more,right?

try some of your wax,it wont hurt it.

Railgun · 04-10-2007, 06:37 PM

Wax will not give a "wet" look. It's more of a buffed shine.

If you're truly after the plasticy "wet" look then you'll need to clean the wood well with an autobody wax and grease remover to remove any signs of finger oils, waxes or other contaminants. It may strip out part of the previous finishes as well.

From there color the wood as you wish using Minwax tinted oils rather than the opaque wood stains. It gives a clearer apperance to the wood grain than the stains that use pigments. After it's dried until you can't smell any solvents anymore then coat it with any of the gloss clear polyurethane varnishes. The ones rated for finishing wood floors are tougher and recomended. A couple or three coats, let dry for at least two weeks and then wet sand with 1000 grit (yes one thousand) and polish with autobody rubbing compound followed by autobody polishing compound. This last is needed to remove the dust marks that you invariably get. Finally wax it with a good autobody wax.

Fireball · 04-11-2007, 02:33 AM

I didn't stain. I used straight linseed.

Wipe-on water-based poly will still adhere to the oiled surface, correct?

Also, how does poly hold up to paint fill? If it doesn't hold up, I'll just use wax, since it's much easier to repair wax than poly.

Brassballs · 04-11-2007, 02:21 PM

PBpaint eats most Polyurethane finishes.

I've used Formbys tung oil 'finish', it's a thicker coating than just pure linseed/tung oil.You do not wipe off this finish after applying,so it builds up on the surface.you can buy high gloss and you can apply it over your pure tung oil finish.
http://www.formbys.com/products/tung_oil.cfm
These types of tung oil 'finishes' have additional ingredients other than pure tung oil.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil

c6quad · 04-11-2007, 02:35 PM

Thad, do you mix the Formbys 50/50 with mineral spirits or use it as/is out of the bottle?

Brassballs · 04-11-2007, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c6quad

Thad, do you mix the Formbys 50/50 with mineral spirits or use it as/is out of the bottle?

I did not mix it.

I applied several coats (8ish) and it looks thick,unlike pure oil.
This finish is very close to the factory Sheridan finish Chad.

but I still like pure oil finishes better,it's easier to touch up.

c6quad · 04-11-2007, 03:47 PM

do you know what Sheridan used on the stocks at the factory?

whatever Sheridan used, it seems to all be on top of the wood and not penetrating into the wood.

Brassballs · 04-11-2007, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c6quad

do you know what Sheridan used on the stocks at the factory?

whatever Sheridan used, it seems to all be on top of the wood and not penetrating into the wood.

No
seems like some type of oil varnish.

The Formbys is very close to it.

hit me up on my email,since I cant PM right now..

04-10-2007, 06:37 PM	#14 (permalink)
Railgun MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Wax will not give a "wet" look. It's more of a buffed shine. If you're truly after the plasticy "wet" look then you'll need to clean the wood well with an autobody wax and grease remover to remove any signs of finger oils, waxes or other contaminants. It may strip out part of the previous finishes as well. From there color the wood as you wish using Minwax tinted oils rather than the opaque wood stains. It gives a clearer apperance to the wood grain than the stains that use pigments. After it's dried until you can't smell any solvents anymore then coat it with any of the gloss clear polyurethane varnishes. The ones rated for finishing wood floors are tougher and recomended. A couple or three coats, let dry for at least two weeks and then wet sand with 1000 grit (yes one thousand) and polish with autobody rubbing compound followed by autobody polishing compound. This last is needed to remove the dust marks that you invariably get. Finally wax it with a good autobody wax. __________________ Model airplanes are cool too!

04-11-2007, 02:21 PM	#16 (permalink)
Brassballs Damage Inc. Lord Join Date: Apr 2006	PBpaint eats most Polyurethane finishes. I've used Formbys tung oil 'finish', it's a thicker coating than just pure linseed/tung oil.You do not wipe off this finish after applying,so it builds up on the surface.you can buy high gloss and you can apply it over your pure tung oil finish. http://www.formbys.com/products/tung_oil.cfm These types of tung oil 'finishes' have additional ingredients other than pure tung oil. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil Last edited by Brassballs; 04-11-2007 at 02:27 PM..

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04-09-2007, 02:08 PM	#11 (permalink)
Brassballs Damage Inc. Lord Join Date: Apr 2006	http://www.minwax.com/products/speci...ishing-wax.cfm if you can buy miniwax up there...

04-10-2007, 02:55 AM	#12 (permalink)
Fireball Active Member Join Date: Sep 2006	Indeed, I can get miniwax. So, paste wax > poly? I'm just guessing that wax needs to be re-applied after a while... Also, I've got some floor paste wax handy....is there any significant difference between different brands of waxes (or will they all give pretty much the same result?) Thanks for everyone's input!

04-10-2007, 01:12 PM	#13 (permalink)
Brassballs Damage Inc. Lord Join Date: Apr 2006	Your just wanting it to shine a bit more,right? try some of your wax,it wont hurt it.

04-11-2007, 02:33 AM	#15 (permalink)
Fireball Active Member Join Date: Sep 2006	I didn't stain. I used straight linseed. Wipe-on water-based poly will still adhere to the oiled surface, correct? Also, how does poly hold up to paint fill? If it doesn't hold up, I'll just use wax, since it's much easier to repair wax than poly.

04-11-2007, 02:35 PM	#17 (permalink)
c6quad MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC	Thad, do you mix the Formbys 50/50 with mineral spirits or use it as/is out of the bottle?

04-11-2007, 03:47 PM	#19 (permalink)
c6quad MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC	do you know what Sheridan used on the stocks at the factory? whatever Sheridan used, it seems to all be on top of the wood and not penetrating into the wood.