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| Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here! |
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| | #21 (permalink) |
| Airsmith to the Gods | I say go formby's high gloss this is the stock i did in it. this is with only 2 coats at the time of the picture. put 5 or 6 coats on before it was done. http://rainman229.com/images/pumps/p...m%20stock3.jpg this was when done picture suxs. Still looks wet. http://rainman229.com/images/pumps/p...m%20stock5.jpg
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| Airsmith to the Gods | If they sell it it on ebay.ca then there should be some where to get it. eBay Canada – New and used formby's on eBay.ca
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Apr 2007 | Floor finish would work ok , but would not be the most functional in games. It tends to get gooey. Brassballs has the right idea. I have had great luck with Johnson's Paste wax. Also , if it gets scratched, just apply another coat , and buff out. The more coats , and higher buffing produce higher lusters. Just a thought. Good luck |
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| | #25 (permalink) |
| MCB Member | Some floor finish is "non evaporating". The oil never really dries, and it isn't supposed to. This is common in old mill buildings. All that dust from the textile fibers would fall to the floor and stay there. When you swept the floor later on, it would be easier to sweep up into piles. I used to work at a machine shop in a mill building that specialized in large format cameras. The floor was finished with non evaporating oil and all the machines ended up with a light coat of oil as well...so it was a very dust free environment. Great for reassembling camera lenses.
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| | #26 (permalink) |
| Post Whore Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: St.Catharines Ontario Canada | email or PM Shartley, the wood grip god about wood finishing! and Poly finish will turn white when paintball fill gets on it for any period of time. according to Sam Hartley, the key to a glossy shine is high speed buffing. with a buffing wheel and rubbing compound. these can found at most tool or auto supply shops.
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| | #27 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Montréal, Canada | Resurrecting an old thread but I'm an avid woodworker and had to put in my 2-cents. Polyurethane in a can is excellent for a waterproof finish. Go with the gloss variety as anything in a spray or with a "matting" agent compromises the finish and makes it less durable. For something less noxious, I would suggestion two options: - shellac - boiled linseed oil ...both of which are available in Canada and abroad. Shellac, while not "waterproof" is water resistant and, if moisture touches it, generally only affects the surface coat, not the wood underneath. Boiled linseed oil is wonderful to work with. It can be wiped on with a rag where I find shellac needs to be more carefully brushed on to avoid streaks. Both of these options are food-safe, environmentally friendly and leave a great, rich finish. I like polyurethane too but application takes a bit more care to avoid streaks. That's basically the trade-off - ease of application and touch-up versus the difficult application of urethane but general freedom from further maintenance. |
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| | #28 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Denver, Colo. | Might try Tru Oil from Casey Birchwood. It also should be available in Canada...(try a sporting goods that has rifles, it'll be back with the bore cleaners and blueing touch up) Catchya on the Flip Side..... Emerald Wolf -- Did a chest with Tung Oil recently....not bad.... |
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