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Old 12-01-2010, 02:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey Leafy,

Yeah. 10-32 is way big.

I drilled and tapped the ram for a 6-40 barb. It's the same barb on the Trilly 3-ways. If you cover the postage I can send a few.

- Badger

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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
and speaking of the trilly one. What size barb did you end up using? I ended up stealing a barb off my smav-3 and tapping the ram for that thread. I didnt think I could drill that ram out to 10-32 without hitting any of the other air passages in it.
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Old 12-04-2010, 07:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Today was one of those very rare Saturday mornings that I had free so I was able to make some good progress.

Milled Frame
It turned our very nicely. Here’s how the Frame looks with the sections milled out to fit the switch, Ram and channels for the airlines. Thanks to John! If you need some work in Toronto LMK—he does great work.


Ram Piston
The MPA3 piston protrudes past the body making it too long to fit flush against the back of the Sear linkage. The piston needs to line up flush with the cylinder body to fit. Put a mark on the piston and shave off the excess material.

Using a pair of sharp tweezers dissemble the ram by taking off the top C-clip. This will release the retaining washer and the spring inside. Take out the piston. Off to the sanding station to take a ~” off the piston. Make sure the face is square. Chuck it into a hand drill to round off edges. Clean off the piston, O-ring, oil and reassemble.


Trigger Pin
Calculate the length of the trigger pin by measuring the distant from the back of the trigger to the face of the swing arm. Transfer the measurement on the pin. I used a stainless rod. Cut the pin to length with a Dremel & cut-off wheel. De-bur and polish both ends on the sanding station.

Find the matching diameter of drill bit for the pin to drill through the frame. There needs to be enough metal in order to guide the rod. So align the bit along the frame eyeing it to ensure that you’ll be hitting meat on the other side. Mark and center punch the trigger guard and then the frame and pilot drill for each hole.

For the Back hole, the pilot was too short to reach through the guard so I hand held the frame freehand and angled drilled the pilot hole from the side. Then clamp the frame and Step up the drill sizes until you reach the final hole size.


Mounting Plate
Place the frame over a sheet of Aluminum and trace the opening for the mounting plate. To prevent the swing arm from rubbing against the plate, notch out the top left corner where the arm would overlap. Cut and debur all edges. There was an existing hole in the middle of the frame which matched up with one of the mounting holes for the switch. Widen this hole and tap for 6-32 to mount the switch and plate to the frame. Mark and drill a second hole and use a screw/fiber locknut for the 2nd mount.


Well, here is the finished product with the parts mounted and lines connected.
How’s the Ram held in place? Well… it’s press in directly from behind where an existing setscrew lives. The screw was protruding out the back of the frame so I ground it down.


You Tube Video
Here’s a link to short video. It clicked as it should with No leaks.

YouTube - Pneucocker Version 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEjpfhVq_fk
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Last edited by Badger; 12-13-2010 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Cool stuff. Let me know if you want a frame plate laser cut out of acrylic. I'd trade you one for a few of those barbs if you just give me a good drawing of the plate.
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Awesome. I'll PM you about it. Thank
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Old 12-07-2010, 09:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I just mounted the frame on a gun and the timing was not a problem at all.
But I had to cut and thread a stubby timing rod.

The Ram seems to starve a bit so it will miss a recocking cycle.
I think it's bc I'm running a Micro Rock which has less volume then a full sized Rock or FGP.
Or maybe because this MSV vents more air then my other switch-- which vents a lot less even when it' held in the open position.

I'll need a full tank of air before I can test it with some paint.
Stay tuned...

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Last edited by Badger; 12-08-2010 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Some updates:
A couple of mods improved the cycling. No more skipping but it's definitely more bouncey on this gun then on my BM half block.

The original frame didn't have a trigger return spring so I added a magnetic return. It's not exactly snappy since the pull is soft enough to be activated with with a straw.

I swapped the LPR and put on a FGP and I installed a metal Tee joint instead of the nylon.





I still don't have a full tank of air to test it with paintballs but here's a short video running off 150psi.

YouTube - Pneucocker Hair Trigger 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AEm66rAMxE
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Last edited by Badger; 12-13-2010 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:47 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Awesome
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The thread is a bit old, but I did hope badger would be back with another update.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm still hoping for this:

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The SF frame is the ideal frame for the conversion. A step-by-step write up is on the way when I have some time.
PnueCocker version 2 – A build thread

Especially since I've bought almost all the parts to do my own
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:37 PM   #20 (permalink)
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There was a thread somewhere with pics using the SF frame. I've been ][ close to getting an SF frame to start the project myself more than once. Gotta clear space first and finish some other projects first.
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