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Old 11-25-2010, 02:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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That looks nice. Is there room to use a vertical Automag ASA ? Any idea on the price range ?


Last edited by Smiley; 11-25-2010 at 02:28 AM.
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Better part of the work is done... still have to machine a few more things and do some trouble shooting but that'll have to wait as I've got a few projects I need to get done for people...

Smiley, there should be plenty of room to fit an automag ASA up front, as for price, not quite sure, still working things out with the parts.



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Old 11-25-2010, 11:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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This is nothing short of awesomeness!

Thank you for sharing!

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Brass Monkey Customs

Brass Freak compatible and Equation inserts in .670, .680, .678 (on request), and .685 (As I no longer have access to the machine to make certain sizes, I will not be replacing any which go out of stock.)

Still selling brass tubing, with .678 barrel stock now available!

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Old 11-26-2010, 12:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Yep, overall it's coming along quite nicely, but since this is a prototype, I'm running into a few kinks... Mainly binding and a very hard and heavy trigger pull likely due to the way the forces are transmitted through the linkage... Either way I'm looking at a few other ways of designing the firing mechanism. Right now I'm thinking about doing it this way... essentially duplicating the Phantom trigger mechanism up front and connecting to the main trigger in the back... My only question is what would be the best way of connecting the two. I was thinking of drilling a hole in each one and connecting the two with wire but it seems alittle sloppy... Well I'm open to ideas, let me hear'em...

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Old 11-26-2010, 04:22 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Automags use a small clevis rod between the trigger and the sear. I think they use them on RC cars and planes.
Try a radius on tip of the trigger (red to orange contact area), and you could move the sear spring forward towards the pin.


Here is a 397 sheridan rifle trigger for comparison:



to this :



Or a one piece slider with the spring in the rear :


Last edited by Smiley; 11-26-2010 at 05:01 AM.
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Old 11-26-2010, 06:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info smiley... I'm gonna look into getting some clevises from hobby town tomorrow and go from there.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Taking what smiley said I've come up with this... The trigger is ALOT more manageable now and with a few more small tweaks and the addition of a spring and a few pins it'll be getting real close to an effective design. Another nice thing is by using the clevises, it gives the ability to adjust the pull length of the trigger. So with alittle more work, things should be coming along nicely.





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Old 12-06-2010, 02:40 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Just out of curiosity. Any more progress?
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:26 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I've started modeling pieces in Solidworks and continuing the design to obtain a better and more efficient trigger pull. Right now the pull is good, but I think it can be alittle better. I'm planing on machining out the 3rd prototype around Christmas when I've got time to be in the shop. Assuming everything goes well and it works well, I'll be ready to start machining and selling pieces.

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Old 12-06-2010, 09:33 AM   #20 (permalink)
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O'lane,
I would love to meet up sometime and test this thing out. Even kick around a lever idea perhaps?
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