Spyder Boarded 'Cocker (Idea and Help Phase)

DeTrevni · 04-11-2007, 02:00 PM

Well here's the idea: Use a Spyder board to power a "mech" cocker. What you do (in theory) is attach a Spyder board, chiefly the new T-Board, to the frame of a mech 'cocker. The heart of the idea, however, is relocating the clicker 'noid and attaching the 4-way connecting rod to it. This way, when the microswitch is tripped, the 'noid actuates the 3-way.

You can still trip the sear in the 'cocker by locating the microswitch to be activated when the trigger trips the sear. This would be fully walkable, because you can set the lug on a 'cocker to be REALLY sensitive.

The advantages would be cheap replacement parts, tunability, speed, and eyes.

My main concerns are this: Will the 'noid be powerful enough to actuate the 4-way, and how difficult would it be to fit all the electronics into the frame?

HP_Lovecraft · 04-11-2007, 02:33 PM

That would work. This is pretty much how the original PMS Electrocockers worked. Instead of a solenoid-powered 4-way, they used 2 cheap clippard 2-way noids that alternated the ram direction/ (ie one always "on", another always "off").

The original Mollick Electrocockers were also kinda similar., though he added fishing wire, and soda straws!

It should be simple enough to also fire the sear with a 2nd solenoid, but having it pushing directly against the sear, and then shorten the trigger so it doesnt contact the sear.

Timing would be an issue since you would not want both noids to fire at the exact same time. A simple solution would be to use TWO microswitches spaced far enough apart to give enough delay to allow the hammer to drop before the ram moves.

Another solution is to REMOVE THE SEAR altogether, and have the ram "throw" the hammer at the poppet. This would only require a small modification to the hammer ping.

nick

Azzy · 04-11-2007, 03:36 PM

Although setting your lug that shallow can cause it to wear, and throw off your timing. you want a a trigger that will do 3 things for a fast rate of fire.

1 steady pull
2 clean break
3 even travel after the break (otherwise, you are just smacking it and stopping, as apposed to getting a good rhythm)

Murph · 04-11-2007, 11:52 PM

the Trilogy select fire frames have a long stroke solenoid, the solenoid trips the sear and continues pushing forward, activating the 3 way. At least that's what I can gather from just looking at one.

04-11-2007, 02:00 PM	#1 (permalink)
DeTrevni Now rockin' the Dux! Join Date: Sep 2006	Spyder Boarded 'Cocker (Idea and Help Phase) Well here's the idea: Use a Spyder board to power a "mech" cocker. What you do (in theory) is attach a Spyder board, chiefly the new T-Board, to the frame of a mech 'cocker. The heart of the idea, however, is relocating the clicker 'noid and attaching the 4-way connecting rod to it. This way, when the microswitch is tripped, the 'noid actuates the 3-way. You can still trip the sear in the 'cocker by locating the microswitch to be activated when the trigger trips the sear. This would be fully walkable, because you can set the lug on a 'cocker to be REALLY sensitive. The advantages would be cheap replacement parts, tunability, speed, and eyes. My main concerns are this: Will the 'noid be powerful enough to actuate the 4-way, and how difficult would it be to fit all the electronics into the frame?

04-11-2007, 03:36 PM	#3 (permalink)
Azzy Mod-O-Rator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Finleyville, PA	Although setting your lug that shallow can cause it to wear, and throw off your timing. you want a a trigger that will do 3 things for a fast rate of fire. 1 steady pull 2 clean break 3 even travel after the break (otherwise, you are just smacking it and stopping, as apposed to getting a good rhythm) __________________ Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel Riverside Renegade Paintball / C.C. S.V.S. Plankowner - LPPC#6 "It is my right to be uncommon—if I can. I seek opportunity—not security. I do not wish to be a kept citizen, humbled and dulled by having the state look after me. I want to take the calculated risk; to dream and to build, to fail and to succeed. I refuse to barter incentive for a dole. I prefer the challenges of life to the guaranteed existence; the thrill of fulfillment to the stale calm of utopia. I will not trade freedom for beneficence nor my dignity for a handout. I will never cower before any master nor bend to any threat. It is my heritage to stand erect, proud and unafraid; to think and act for myself, enjoy the benefit of my creations and to face the world boldly and say, “This I have done.” - Dean Alfange

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04-11-2007, 02:33 PM	#2 (permalink)
HP_Lovecraft MCB Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Southern Maine	That would work. This is pretty much how the original PMS Electrocockers worked. Instead of a solenoid-powered 4-way, they used 2 cheap clippard 2-way noids that alternated the ram direction/ (ie one always "on", another always "off"). The original Mollick Electrocockers were also kinda similar., though he added fishing wire, and soda straws! It should be simple enough to also fire the sear with a 2nd solenoid, but having it pushing directly against the sear, and then shorten the trigger so it doesnt contact the sear. Timing would be an issue since you would not want both noids to fire at the exact same time. A simple solution would be to use TWO microswitches spaced far enough apart to give enough delay to allow the hammer to drop before the ram moves. Another solution is to REMOVE THE SEAR altogether, and have the ram "throw" the hammer at the poppet. This would only require a small modification to the hammer ping. nick