Custom

[Tallen702]

Okay, so I've decided to fore-go the e-Talon due to a couple of constraints including the lack of a rear C/A ASA and the fact that it'd be like firing a Mac-10 on full-auto due to the reciprocating hammer and the lightness of the marker.

So, here's the idea.

1. Tap the ASA on each side to allow the addition of two lpr's
2. Run from the lpr's to two 3-way noids
3. Run one 'noid to a ram that pushes the bolt forward to chamber the ball
4. run the other noid to a ram that will actuate the hammer to travel rearward and strike the valve
5. run both 'noids off of a morlock or similar board fit into the lower reciever where the trigger and guts used to be
6. tuck the 'noids and the battery into a self-fashioned shroud (like an RM or cocker) under the marker
7. cut out an access pannel to the board and fit grips to the frame.

Now, would an old DM/LCD board work? I don't know much about them but I own a spare from where mine has the "anderson" board in it.

Also, does anyone have any good ideas of how to re-enforce the plastic shell of the Tigershark to keep the externals from ripping out of the plastic? I was thinking of epoxying metal re-enforcement plates to the side where the components would attach that had been pre-drilled (along with their corresponding places on the marker body) to give it added rigidity and keep the thing from flying apart at higher cyclic rates. Also, how much can I lighten the bolt? I was thinking of fluting it and the hammer to make them as light as possible and adding QEV's to the rams to keep up the cycling rate. In other words, how much metal shaved off is too-much metal?

[Chemical-X]

I have seen this done with adapted RM guts.

Even picking up a stock RM will give you most all the parts you need.

Board
Sol
Harness
Ram

Connect the ram to the bolt then mount the ram.
Mount the sol relatively close to the ram
Plumb in your LPR
Route your air lines
Setup your wiring harness, battery and wire in your switch.

You dont want your air lines being too long from the sol to the ram as this can give you problems.

[Tallen702]

that's why I was planning on mounting the noids under the marker in front of the grip-frame using a shroud. can the LP lines from the LPR to the noids be a little longer since they're coming from the ASA in the back?

[Chemical-X]

Yeah, You just want the lines from the noid to the ram to be short to keep the pressure up and air transfer speed relatively quick.

[Azzy]

You could make it real simple and fast.

1. setup a pin in the frame to trip the sear every time it comes forward (like locking down the auto-trigger)
2. mount an LPR and any old e-board to a single solenoid
3. have the ram move it back and forth. instant cheapo e-vector / rainmaker.

This lets you only need 1 solenoid to move the ram back and forth. less things in a system, the less there is to go wrong.

Also, even if you use 2 solenoids, you will only need 1 lpr, unless you want it to be like a gemini system and run at different pressures. RamboPreacher's Grinder runs 3 Typhoons off of 1 LPR, any decent one out there will do the same.

[HP_Lovecraft]

Originally Posted by Chemical-X

I have seen this done with adapted RM guts.

You are probobly thinking of this one:



This is an electro-autococking-nelson, made mostly from rainmaker parts, plus aftermarket regs.

The tricky parts is he also made a special adapter to hold the grip frame, and front pneumatics. The trigger was "pinned" to always autotrigger

Nick

[Rainman229]

hate to burst your bubble. But i figure I'll save you the head aches this will give you. Running duel niod set up on anything brass eagle makes is a bad idea. ( less the rainmaker). The valves in there plastic makers can't flow enough to be ebolted. Unless your designing a whole new valve setup for it. I've trued it in the past and was extremely disgusted with end result and the amount of time i had in to it and still didn't function properly.

If you want and e- shark i suggest doing it one noid and but a pin in to trip the sear. Would basically be an in line (single tube) rainmaker. More functional and it may not be a closed bolt but it's also not a open bolt. Yes at rest the bolt will be open, but unlike any other open bolt the bolt will be fully closed before the hammer is release to hit the valve. making it a semi closed bolt marker.

doing it with one noid would make the stock spring setup stay the same. so internally it would function as it did before. Hence leaving you with out velocity issues and a head ache. also you will still have cash in your pocket to spend on paint.

Do as you will with what i say. Been there done that. In stead of the shirt i just got a head ache thinking about that old disaster

[Tallen702]

Thanks for the advice guys! I think I'll try the auto-trigger idea that you've all suggested. It definitely sounds like a lot less work.

Rainman, is the flow issue due to the flow from the ASA into the valve, power-tube bottleneck, or just the fact that they're a small ID and don't have much volume?

[Rainman229]

Originally Posted by Tallen702

Rainman, is the flow issue due to the flow from the ASA into the valve, power-tube bottleneck, or just the fact that they're a small ID and don't have much volume?

It's the fact that the valve is designed to work high preasue. and to make so a ram opens the valve you would need to go low presure. The ram don't have enough force behind it to open the valve if was still high preasure..

Going to auto triggering setup keeps it in it hp format.

[Tallen702]

I wonder if you could go LP if you were to tap the valve and put in an volumizer, like the LPK on the '98 custom did. Lighten up the valve spring and it might work in theory. Of course, that's just more work to do and something else to stick out of the marker.