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Old 11-10-2011, 10:53 PM   #991 (permalink)
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I actually tried a Ranger tube in a stock CCI retaining valve nut a while back, and it wouldn't fit. Just sayin. I even tried it in a Carter. Same. Not saying Slinger is bs'ing though. Maybe he's just lucky. I know luck ain't good to me, thats all.
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THE-SHOOTIST Anyone chubbin' like me for this?
mailmanmike Since Monday! That's more than 4 hours though, so according to those cialis ads I should see my doctor.
tlane77 I think for a non-chemical chubby it's 6 hours before its time to see a doctor. So you should be good for another couple hours.
splattttttt I wasn't goin to google "chubbin" because I assumed it had to do with fat. The lard type, not the fun stuff. But what ever feelings Jeff's experiencing, then they must be of the fun like stuff...
tlane77 He's got a woody for your woods.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:15 PM   #992 (permalink)
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Slinger - looks like breaking out the calipers is in order
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:46 AM   #993 (permalink)
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Yoda- Sure, I'll do it tomorrow.

Splatttttttt- It fits in a stock retaining nut. There's one in here right now.

Just test fired. Seems to be sealing and working.
It is a little tight, but slides easily with a little oil in the stock retaining nut.
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The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:49 AM   #994 (permalink)
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Sooo... I was tired of watching from the sidelines and just wanted to post my "hack-job" leprechaun valve...
All work done by cordless drill and dremel... oh the horror!!!

Anyways, here is my setup:



SNY Unibody
Barrel bore .6??
Kinda-polished internals
Random hammer spring
#4 Powertube
Stock Valve

All results are with Reballs (same set for both tests) and HPA (will hopefully do real paint and 12 gram tests tomorrow)


Standard Valve:
262 268 271 262 273 263 259 262 282 267
Avg. 266.2
+/- 11.5 Yeahh thats pretty inconsistent... probably the reballs






(Same port clearance as stock valve, comparable spring tension (from what I felt))

Ghetto Valve:
264 270 260 270 257 258 263 267 274 262
Avg. 264.5
+/- 8

So the ghetto valve had lower velocities, but pulled the consistency in...
I did all of this in just 2 hours, so it definitely could use more fine tuning and polishing

Id love to get my hands on the cone cupseal and the newest prototypes you have around y0da900

( I really should be working on college applications instead... but I needed a "fun" break )
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lol can't talk eh? boy is mar gonna have a field day (and night) with you.
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I wonder if I can put a pumpkin on the CNC mill? Hmmmmm.... (toddles off toward shop)
Ty
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:17 AM   #995 (permalink)
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it's always nice seeing more and more people getting involved in this project spankopotomous. Any, and all info is always welcome.
Agreed that real world testing by using actual paint rather than reball would serve better for in the greater good of the project. But we must also consider the marker in use performed at its best.
The work you did with the valve is much appreciated. There's only so much that can be done to a stock valve, and with a #4 pt, there's plenty of meat there to work with.
Some of us have taken various sized drill bits to further open the ID's with great results. One more way for you to help break the monotony of an otherwise dull day lol.
But if there was one particular crucial element to our quest as far as efficiency is concerned, I'd have to give credit to proper ball to barrel bore matching.
If you are working with an older marker such as the SNY Nelson clone, than you're probably aware that the stock ID of the barrel is fairly large, and way too large for reball.
Just out of curiosity... Have you tried removing the barrel? Based on my knowledge, these did offer that option. Maybe yours isn't, but if it did, a seam would be visible, and it might help give you plenty more possibilities at achieving a much more reliable set up.
None the less, thank you for joining in on the discussion, and do continue to offer what ever input you're willing to share.
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"Democracy is the worst form of government except for all the others which have been tried." Winston Churchill

THE-SHOOTIST Anyone chubbin' like me for this?
mailmanmike Since Monday! That's more than 4 hours though, so according to those cialis ads I should see my doctor.
tlane77 I think for a non-chemical chubby it's 6 hours before its time to see a doctor. So you should be good for another couple hours.
splattttttt I wasn't goin to google "chubbin" because I assumed it had to do with fat. The lard type, not the fun stuff. But what ever feelings Jeff's experiencing, then they must be of the fun like stuff...
tlane77 He's got a woody for your woods.
splattttttt land
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:44 PM   #996 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splattttttt View Post
it's always nice seeing more and more people getting involved in this project spankopotomous. Any, and all info is always welcome.
Agreed that real world testing by using actual paint rather than reball would serve better for in the greater good of the project. But we must also consider the marker in use performed at its best.
The work you did with the valve is much appreciated. There's only so much that can be done to a stock valve, and with a #4 pt, there's plenty of meat there to work with.
Some of us have taken various sized drill bits to further open the ID's with great results. One more way for you to help break the monotony of an otherwise dull day lol.
But if there was one particular crucial element to our quest as far as efficiency is concerned, I'd have to give credit to proper ball to barrel bore matching.
If you are working with an older marker such as the SNY Nelson clone, than you're probably aware that the stock ID of the barrel is fairly large, and way too large for reball.
Just out of curiosity... Have you tried removing the barrel? Based on my knowledge, these did offer that option. Maybe yours isn't, but if it did, a seam would be visible, and it might help give you plenty more possibilities at achieving a much more reliable set up.
None the less, thank you for joining in on the discussion, and do continue to offer what ever input you're willing to share.
Yeah, I know paint-bore match is crucial to this. (and to me to prevent rollouts)
It is a unibody, BUT, the barrel shall soon be chopped off, cocker-threaded, and replaced with a better one

Just wanted to want to take a whack at it

Just for the sake of having more data, i will keep testing my "ghetto" valve to see the max gains possible with a #4 powertube. More data never hurts right?
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Originally Posted by heinous View Post
lol can't talk eh? boy is mar gonna have a field day (and night) with you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tymcneer View Post
I wonder if I can put a pumpkin on the CNC mill? Hmmmmm.... (toddles off toward shop)
Ty
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:00 AM   #997 (permalink)
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I finally took the y0da valve out to play today. I settled with the 12 gram setup I last tested with, as it gave pretty good results:

650 psi from Stabilizer, black cupseal oring, a bunch of crap to restrict flow and increase backpressure on the reg. Fluted hammer, medium weight main (a bit weaker than a Blue?), blue red valve, no cone spring.

Temp was 8 degrees C, 46.4 degrees F. I was still getting 35ish full velocity shots (270+ fps) from the cartridges. Probably due to the fact that running at a slightly lower pressure allowed for full expansion regardless of the nippy weather.

The gun is surprisingly snappy sounding, with no fart or bounce. It's on the loud side of things, but the sound is very short and sharp compared to something like a Trracer or SL-68. I'm running an open face bolt, I'm sure something like a TPC would quiet it down. I was pretty happy with the performance all day. The black oring is much more durable than the teflon seal, as far as coping with buildup and debris.

On another note, I need to deburr the bolt action locking slot I cut in this SNY rental. I sliced my knuckles up real nice playing with this thing today.

bolt_action_SNY.jpg

After playing today, I'm almost out of 12 gram cartridges. Time to put in another $700 order...
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Last edited by russc; 11-15-2011 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:49 AM   #998 (permalink)
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Very impressive Russ. Now all you need is a proper pump handle, a feed of some sort, and 700 dollars worth of 12g co2.
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"Democracy is the worst form of government except for all the others which have been tried." Winston Churchill

THE-SHOOTIST Anyone chubbin' like me for this?
mailmanmike Since Monday! That's more than 4 hours though, so according to those cialis ads I should see my doctor.
tlane77 I think for a non-chemical chubby it's 6 hours before its time to see a doctor. So you should be good for another couple hours.
splattttttt I wasn't goin to google "chubbin" because I assumed it had to do with fat. The lard type, not the fun stuff. But what ever feelings Jeff's experiencing, then they must be of the fun like stuff...
tlane77 He's got a woody for your woods.
splattttttt land
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:10 AM   #999 (permalink)
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On another note, I need to deburr the bolt action locking slot I cut in this SNY rental. I sliced my knuckles up real nice playing with this thing today.
Yep, true old school function. The sad part is all that work you did allows you to chop more knuckle per 12g.

That count and velocity in the mid 40's temperature really is nice.
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:14 PM   #1000 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by splattttttt View Post
Now all you need is a proper pump handle, a feed of some sort, and 700 dollars worth of 12g co2.
Despite the blood, I'm definitely keeping it bolt action, but I'm considering putting a 5 round square mag out the right side. I might cannibalize a few inches of SMG-60 magazine tubing to do it. It's nice how streamlined the gun is when you don't have a pump handle or feed tube in the way.

Bolt action single loading with 12 grams...it's the biggest rush when you're running up close to people! You have to make every move and shot count. Ultra stock class.
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Last edited by russc; 11-14-2011 at 01:41 PM.
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