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Old 07-13-2014, 06:32 PM   #1851 (permalink)
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Sorry. Those are from the Gargoyle with stock cci barrel 11", stock cci hammer, red main spring, silver valve spring, ASP open faced TPC and the brass version of the new cup.
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Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
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Someone ban that painthappy dude
Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:43 AM   #1852 (permalink)
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I've tried a few different setups at this point, internal changes and spring combos. I haven't had time to cut down and clean up a #6 yet.

Really kinda stuck just above 30/12ie. Which is actually a small step backwards.

Question for those smarter than me....

Is it possible that the ports are too small? It's not having any trouble with recharge but what if we are causing so much expansion going into that front section of the valve we are loosing too much energy there and that's where the efficiency gains we were hoping to see are disappearing?
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Originally Posted by MaD View Post
Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
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Someone ban that painthappy dude
Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:05 PM   #1853 (permalink)
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I had a little interesting experiment the other day. I've been trying to "elevate" my JTER2 efficiency, velocity control, and pump stroke. It would shoot 290 on the first shot and drop to 200 in 6 shots. After lightening the hammer from 50 something grams to about 35 grams (iirc) and changing the springs it improved a little. Changing the barrel to a 685 freak insert helped too. I was up to about 10 shots, from 280 to 180.

The interesting bit was when I tried the "sail" idea on it. I wanted to make it more sensitive to pressure changes, and use the sail to help close the valve faster when the pressure was high. The idea is to sweetspot the valve action for ~800 psi, at least more than it was. I found a nylon washer at the hardware store that was .625 OD and about 1/16" thick. I drilled it out a little so that it sat on the nub at the rear of the existing "cup seal" (one piece of molded plastic). Since the washer is barely 1/16" smaller in diameter than the gas chamber, I figured it would choke the whole thing down and I would be trimming the diameter down to where I wanted it.

So the first test showed me...nothing. I couldn't tell any difference. So, doubting my own understanding, I went and made a new poppet seat of the same diameter, essentially moving the sail edge right up to the seat. This time the first shot was 230, as was the next four shots +/-4, working my way up to about 12+ shots over 200. So, I got what I was after, but I was surprised at how tight I had to bring the wide edge in to see that effect.

The hammer weight should have a lot to do with it. I couldn't make it much lighter, gracefully that is. I didn't want to go any lighter as the valve spring is light and the hammer spring is still a bit heavy on the pump stroke.
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Old 11-24-2014, 08:23 PM   #1854 (permalink)
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Interesting. So your sail is right up close to the valve nut?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD View Post
Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drum View Post
Someone ban that painthappy dude
Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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Old 11-25-2014, 02:22 PM   #1855 (permalink)
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It is really just an extra wide (large diameter) poppet face, which provides more drag force at higher flow rates (squared) than the smaller poppet. I also have the pierce pin assembly restricted with a set screw with a small flat on the side, so it depends on the dump chamber space mostly and not inlet flow into the chamber.

Just like a cocker, there is a balance in poppet drag, tube ports, dump chamber volume, springs and hammer mass that will help compensate for pressure (and flow rate) changes across the valve. It's not an efficiency thing as much as consistency. It is poppet drag that makes a marker somewhat self regulating, everything else is fixed shot to shot.

I know many people already own some consistent nelsons. The interesting part for me was being able to vary the poppet drag when I hit the end of changing the other parts of my plastic marker. I think this is why opening up porting on markers sometimes helps consistency and sometimes hurts it; you're shifting the sweetspot around. There should be a "best" set up, but I think you still have to include barrel length.
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Last edited by Spider!; 11-25-2014 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 11-25-2014, 02:29 PM   #1856 (permalink)
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Thanks for the updates
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD View Post
Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drum View Post
Someone ban that painthappy dude
Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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Old 01-17-2015, 06:26 PM   #1857 (permalink)
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Just picked up a small jewellers lathe, can someone shoot me the dimensions of this cup seal valve plug thingy? I have some 1/2" brass rod if that's big enough
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:32 PM   #1858 (permalink)
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I am picking up a hammer 7 soon and I believe it is a nelson based gun. Does anyone have any advice on making if more consistent? I will be shooting only first strike with it with a hh barrel. Not very concerned about efficiency.

Thanks
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:36 PM   #1859 (permalink)
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This isn't really the spot for this. But as I have the answer to your question my advice. Is to sweet spot your output to ~900 psi. Yes it's a very high pressure marker. Don't bother looking for aftermarket Springs as they are unique for a Nelson. You are going to want to unscrew the cup seal and then apply a little blue loctite then screw it back onto the Power tube. Polishing the internals isn't a bad start either. Also you may find good results from ditching your fin sizing back and just threading the barrel for spyder threads. No need to polish the bolt as it's been plated so.
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