Custom

[spymongoose]

Im not fancy, I dont have access to fancy machinery, and I dont have the brightest ideas here, but heres my mini-sniper build.

I had this 98 evolution autococker kicking around my collection for 2 years now, and I can never seem to fit iit with the right combination of parts. I really admire the look and feel of it and want to make it a less transient part of my collection (and maybe actually get it to a field one day).

I already have a good idea of what I want it to be in the end... a evo version of this gun:

This particular gun was bought specifically to try out the WWA mini-sniper setup, and the look and feel of it has me really impressed... so I think to myself "I wish this gun was a nice as my evo" and "why cant my evo be more like that?"

Not wanting to bother Pun or Rainy or Doc or any other paintball custom guy with such a trivial job (or have to wait in line at those places, or cut into my gun acquisition funding) I convinced an online friend who works at a machine shop to chop the front part of my evo off with a bandsaw and polish the toolmarks off. Not likeing that little 1/16 or whatever little lip that all minis seem to have on the front, I asked the guy to cut it flush with the front of the barrel threads. I dont see any reason for that lip plus I wanted to keep this job simple for my non-paintball machinist.

So the body got back from the machinist today, and I got my 1/8 npt tap out and I'm finishing the mini converstion. heres how it looks:




To finish the build I will move that same WGP sniper gripframe, the same freak barrel with a WWA stump front, and the same WWA sniper kit, and the same el cheapo red dot sight (gotta make those shots count!)

Not that anybody cares, but ill update this post when I take some more pics.

[kidneythief]

1/8" NPT tap? It should be tapped with a 3/8-24 to accept the pre-2K front block screw or pump kit.

If you truly did use 1/8" NPT to thread that hole you have no choice but to step up to the 3/8"-24...unless you only plan to thread in a standard air fitting or hose.

-Jake

[spymongoose]

ahh you caught me just in time, was finally leaving my pc to go do the job... I didnt know that little tidbit. 3/8-24 it is!

[kidneythief]

Whew!!!

Glad to help.

-Jake

[spymongoose]

can I get a 2nd opinion on what tap to use... I took my front block screw and matched it to the dyes in my little tap and dye set, and it didnt line up with my 3/8-24 dye. It didnt fit in the 1/8npt dye either... it did fit the "1/8 p" dye perfectly. I dont seem to have a 1/8 p tap though... so im off to Sears in the morning. Does this sound right to anyone else? Im off to the shop with the WWA pump kit rod to verify... is there a late night cocker expert in the house?

[kidneythief]

cocker tech

Your Evolution is a pre 2k. It does have a 3/8"-24 threaded front block screw and so does the pre 2k WW pump kit. If you wish to test this fact try drilling/tapping a scratch piece of metal and test it.

-Jake

[spymongoose]

cocker tech tells me:

Front block screw:
3/8-24 threads on '99 and earlier
9/16-24 threads on 2000 and later
5/8-18 threads on the bottom tube on Spanky bodies (still use a 3/8-24 screw to attach the front block).

and The Thread Thread - Tap and Die Sizes - PbNation tells me:
Autococker:
valve retaining nut----- 5/8"-18 5/16" long hollow lock screw
valve locking nut (located on underside of body) ----- 5/16"-24 1/4" long set screw
cocking rod hex knob ----- 5/16" OD 10-32 stainless threaded hex standoff, 3/4" long
All (or most) newer hammer kits ----- 1/4"-28 x 1/2" setscrew, with the first approx. 3/16" turned down to just narrower than the 'Cocker body slot. (Itself 3/16".)
IVG 3/4-16
Bolt o-rings ----- 0.1" thick, 0.5" ID, 0.7" OD
front block bolts ----- 3/8-24 threads on '99 and earlier
9/16-24 threads on 2000 and later
detent ----- 3/8 -24
velocity adjuster ----- 3/4-16
3-way ----- 15/32"-32
ram - 6-32
cocker barrels ----- 15/16"-20, Oversize GH-7
Autococker LPR ----- 1/8" NPT
Pump arm ----- 10-32

I am not one to argue with the internet! I must have a really wierd front block screw.

[spymongoose]

im just gonna hit it with the 3/8-24 for the following reasons

1 a MCB moderator told me to
2 im too cheap to buy a whole tap and dye set that has the tap i dont have
3 everything on the internet tells me that im wrong in thinking the "screw the thing into the dye to match the threads test" actualy works

[kidneythief]

My experience with those tap/dye sets is that they are very cheap. Your best bet is to buy singles when you need them. A thread gauge and micrometer is your most accurate test,.

-Jake

[spymongoose]

well the deed is done, tapped in 3/8-24

and here it is with the "funky" front block screw... Any other noobish stuff i should watch out for?