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Old 01-14-2012, 10:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How to hard line 37 flare and fittings

I recently had to make up a little hardline, so I took some picks along the way.
Here are the fittings needed for a 37 flare. Tube nut, ferrule and 1/8NPT to-3 fitting.

Next you will need the line. for this example, I used seamless 304 stainless annealed 3/16 diameter tube.

One of the most important steps is making sure you have a good square cut on the end of the tube and make sure there are no sharp edges, or burrs.

The flaring tool has different height stoppers on either side of the arbor to set the depth according to the diameter of the tube being flared.

Next you want to butt the tube to the arbor, with the arbor bottomed on the appropriate stopper and clamp the tube in the tool

Here is the tube clamped in position with the arbor backed off to show the depth has been set.

Then you will want to hold the tool securely, oil the tip of the flaring tool and begin cranking the arbor in until it bottoms with the stop backed off.

Once the flare has been formed, pull the end of the flaring tool loose from the threaded portion and burnish the flare with a full 360 rotation of the tool.

Here is the final order of assembly. Remember, if you have a bend in the tube, install the ferrule before flaring, otherwise you will never be able to get it on.

And a picture of the final product fully assembled.

Good luck.
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Old 01-17-2012, 04:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Great work and really nice/instructional photos.
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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where did you get the fittings?
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
Doesn't work for Avratech
 
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I've never used these for pneumatics only hydraulics, I wonder if it will leak at higher pressures?
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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where did you get the fittings?
The fittings are commonly known as A/n fittings, or Army Navy. They are available at most aircraft surplus shops, as well as most all hot rod/ racing suppliers. Some of the current manufacturers include BMRS, XRP, Earls and Goodridge as well as a bunch of others where the quality seems to trail off. There are steel equivalents available in industrial supply houses as well and they are known as J.I.C. fittings. one thing to note is the diameter of line is commonly known in Dash size E.G. the line I used here is known as -3. the dash size equates to the outer diameter of the line in 1/16 of an in inch, so -3 = 3/16 of an inch. I hope this helps educate some out there.

I have only supplied the information on how this is done, whether you believe it will work or not is up to you and your own individual experience .
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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point to these fittings? would they replace macroline/braided line like on a phantom?
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
Doesn't work for Avratech
 
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alternative option for air plumbing. kind of expensive if you don't have the tools already, but it looks good
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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AN fittings are crazy expensive. I dropped over $100 once buying fittings for an engine build.
Also note, you need an AN flare tool for them. The one you get from the auto store will do 45* compression flares. These will not seal on a 45* flare.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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any one have pictures using this stuff on a gun?
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Here is a picture of one I did in Copper and Brass a number of years ago. Don't worry, I made sure the Copper line was rated to over 3K.

When I put my Mag back together, I could snap some of the Stainless/ alloy version pictured in the first post. A/N fittings aren't all that expensive, especially not small fittings like the -3. I buy the tube in 20' lengths for about $3 a foot. The fittings are even cheaper if you don't care about alloy and are commonly available in steel known as JIC fittings and are dirt cheap. I just happen to like the alloy, I think it's a lot classier and even they are only a few dollars each.
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