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Old 07-21-2012, 11:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ariakon ACP Poo pistol

I found this sitting in a forgotten box under my bench last wensday, I think. I thought it might be a good candidate for the Poo project. When i pulled it apart I found that all the seals have dry rotted and the valve looked like it was taken out the wrong way with a flat head screwdriver. No problem though the valve is an exacty copy of a kingman valve. I happen to have drawer full so I just swapped it out. And that is my starting point.



As I was thinking about it I was thinking what I would want to do to make me want to use this thing on the field. I know that I had to get rid of the 12ies I hate them and also the seal was leaking. Originally this came with "clips" of spring loaded 10 rd tubes. nice but a pain to load and since I dont take 2 guns out on the field 20 shots would never be enough. That being the case I had to think of a way to get a hopper on there. Next thought was if their is a hopper on top the center of gravity is going to be kinda wierd so it would be nice if I can use a tank as a stock. While I was at it I might as well make a vert ASA so I can put a reg also. So basically I was back to a spyder with an integral barrel. Thats ok with me but it sure would be nice to have a freak barrel to increase consistency.

I knew that the feed neck was going to be the biggest obstical so that is what I started with first. I took some measurements and started the design last night. This morning I finalized the design and wrote the gcode. now the goal of the design was to not make anything that could not be made by someone with a drill press and some time. I would just be doing it faster


















Note: This is the only application where red loctite is acceptable





forgot to take some pictures of the shaping but it was done manually on my mini mill not CNC. This is the final product.



There is also the step of making the vert ASA adapter I forgot to take pictures of. It is rather simple though I will take pictures of it when I tear it back down before freak boring the body.

everything else is pretty straight forward nothing picture worthy for now.
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I like it.
It looks pretty small and compact.

How long did this take?
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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it is extremely compact actually it might be too compact. I typically use the barrel length as a sighting aid but with this their is no barrel per say so its kinda throwing my aim off but I will get used to it.

As for how long it took about a day to conceptualize and take measurements start design find stock, prep work basically. then a day to do it all. The one thing I have yet to finish is the freak boring. I am waiting for a mandrel to make a fixture out of. So I figure that it will take a day to make the fixture and get the body bored. It might take a little longer than that since I have never done anything like this before but once its setup it should not take long at all to actually bore.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Looking good.

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Brass Monkey Customs

Brass Freak compatible and Equation inserts in .665, .670, .675, .678, .680 and .685

Current Freak compatible inserts in stock:
.665 = 0, .670 = 16, .675 = 3, .678 = 4, .680 = 4, .682 = 4, .685 = 11

Still selling brass tubing, with .678 barrel stock now available!

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Old 07-23-2012, 01:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You can use tank orings for the all the internal valve parts,I have one of these convertes to select fire using a Spyder egrip,also the barrel is removable,Spyder thread I think
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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got my fixture mandrel today! so I finished it up.

ok here is the first part of the setup. I already drilled lathe centers on the end fo the mandrel so I can use it as a test bar.




as you can see its pretty dead nuts on. I adjusted the tail stock untill i can run the indicator from one end to the other 12" so its out less than 0.001 over 12"


next I set my zero for the cross slide on the carrage. I did this by taking a small reamer with a lathe center on the end and pushing it against the dead center and measuring how much the rod deflected. I kept adjusting it untill when it was pushed onto the dead center the dials did not move. you might notice that they are not set to zero but that does not matter all I was looking for was movement not a hard number.



So this is how I aligned the body in the 4 jaw. what you cant see is the dead center is still in there so I can use it to align the back end of the mandrel.



the next step I forgot to take a picture of. I set up the indicators to measure vertical and horizontal movement. then as I tightened it in the 4 jaw I made sure that the end of the mandrel did not move.

This is how I zeroed the Z axis. the little piece of steel goes to the bottom of the threads so that when the barrel gets tight it will just kiss the insert as it gets tight.



Here are some pics of the process. It took a while since I only spun it 70 rpm for fear of flinging it across the room or at me.




This is just cutting the window for the insert. not necessary but it looks cool




and final product.



The only problem with this whole gun is it does not like brittle paint at all. although I did change the valve spring so I might have to retune the whole thing for lower pressure.
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Fine work... I have been asked, repeatedly, if I could do Freak boring on one of those pistols. I always answer yes, but it is too expensive... I suggest that you offer the service, you might make a few bucks

Ty
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Brass Monkey Customs

Brass Freak compatible and Equation inserts in .665, .670, .675, .678, .680 and .685

Current Freak compatible inserts in stock:
.665 = 0, .670 = 16, .675 = 3, .678 = 4, .680 = 4, .682 = 4, .685 = 11

Still selling brass tubing, with .678 barrel stock now available!

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Old 07-23-2012, 11:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Wow, looks great.
Really compact.

Make more and sell for a profit
I would try to make it a sear tripper electronic.
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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unfortunately this would not be a cheep service for me either. I have to say it took about an hour to setup and then at the speed it needs to run it took about another 1.5 hours to bore so it would be about a 3 hour job. in other words an entire day, and it's not like cnc work where I can get something else done while its working I have to constantly pay attention even walking to the other side of the shop is not something I would want to do. also you cant just bore it the entire thing in one pass either. I was extracting it and clearing all the chips ever 1/2" of boring. I would most likely have to charge at least 150 to do it.
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panda's Revenge View Post
Wow, looks great.
Really compact.

Make more and sell for a profit
I would try to make it a sear tripper electronic.
Since it takes mostly spyder parts I don't see why a e frame would not work on it. then make some eye covers and mill some eye holes and I think that would work rather well.
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