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Old 07-23-2012, 09:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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The clear Schlitz [poo build]

So, this is my entry into the poo build-off. It's name harkens back to the of Schlitz beer. Partially due to the name being funny, partially because my tattoo artist told me about this guy who came in and got a tattoo because his grandfathers last words to him were, "don't drink Schlitz, it'll give you the ****s."

Anyway, it started life out as an ordinary Spyder Esprit, then got bought by a tourney player to use as a back-up in '03, just to be upgraded and sold to me, (the new paintballer) for $175 with 2 20oz tanks, a Trinity 15* forward, aftermarket feedneck, classic SP barrel, regulator, drop forward, CP ASA, and face mask. Pretty much everything I needed to play that day, plus upgrades. It served me well at the age of 13, until the bolt broke when I was 14. A new Evil delrin bolt found it's way in, just to snap in half first day of play. So, for the past 7 years or so it has sat in a Rubbermaid box, being moved from house to house, never seeing the light of day. That is, until now.

I have a love for stacked tube EP's such as the Timmy and Ego. With the Spyder sharing so much with the Timmy, a Spimmy build was always on the thought plan, but also always on the back burner.

With a budget of $100, and a drawn up plan of what I want to achieve, I decided to build a custom Spimmy with some one off custom parts. I'm slowly gonna document and release info as I build it, so don't expect the whole game plan to be here week one, nor week two.

So, here's our candidate for surgery. She has had stickers on her for so long that when they came off, you could see where they were positioned.


After the first layer of surgery, the feed neck went from this:

To this:


There's some slight scratches on it from where the dremel slipped (was so tight on there that heating and twisting couldn't even take it off, so it had to be surgically removed via cutting wheel). It's all good though because the plan is for a clamping feedneck that way I can stop wrapping my Halo feed neck in electrical tape.

The first set of drilling came in the form of the top cocking slot. It's not the prettiest, so a little more work is needed, but it's decent for now.


Last thing for the day was starting modification to the stock board. My Esprit came with the ESP frame. So, to conserve money, i'm reusing the stock board for the time being (that is, until the contest is over and I can afford a universal T-board.) First off was to remove the cap so that the board doesn't push 16 volts out.

So, from this:


To this:


That's all I have for now. It's a start, but still a long ways to done.
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This will be interesting.
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I didn't know you could just take the cap off a Spyder board...that'll bring its output down enough for a normal noid?
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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From what I understand. I'm gonna go in and close off the circuit (just thought of that). But, I had heard of someone using the stock board, so I looked into it and people said take off the cap. Supposedly it'll output 9volts without it, and the plan is to use a Mac 43, so a resistor will be needed. In theory, it should work.

So, bought this earlier today. It's my LPR that will go on the front (or side, haven't decided which yet) of the stock front block. I was trying to get a ANS Jackhammer, and I almost got it. My max bid was set for $4, and all was good, until some guy outbid me by $0.25 at literally the last second. So, found this refurb for $8.50 shipped and bought it! Still cheaper than buying a Evil or other Timmy LPR, and it's till adjustable to boot! Also, since I lost out on the reg I was trying to get, I was left with some extra cash for other parts, so $8.50 shipped was no deal.

Last edited by chrisrook; 07-24-2012 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you are using a MAC 43, you might need to put the cap back on (i.e. don't throw it away yet). Those solenoids are power hungry. A UTB will only power one from the clapper noid output, the EP output on them doesn't have enough juice to do it.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I still have it, but the 43 is rated at 5volts. There's gonna be a lot of tuning with this, so we'll see if it needs it or not. Gonna be a lot of trial and error here.

The LPR came in the other night! Now I need to decide if I'm mounting it to the front of the front block, or the side with a 90*. Also, an item I was trying to get got sold to someone rose by accident. So, the. Build design is having some tweaks made to compensate for such.

Last edited by chrisrook; 07-29-2012 at 12:18 PM.
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