|Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here!|
| ||Thread Tools||Search this Thread|
|08-02-2006, 08:47 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jul 2006
What mods do I have to do to the hammer to get a roller sear cocker frame to work with my PGP. Who makes/ sells the adaptor plate to go between the two? My goal is to eventually do a semi conversion to it, any good walk thru's or advice?
|08-02-2006, 10:33 PM||#4 (permalink)|
machinist to the gods
plates are 25 shipped
to raise the sear you need to remove your trigger but before you do so look at where the sear rides on it)
with the trigger out grid (Dremal or file) where the sear sits( this will rasie the the sear)
the more you take off . the higher you bring sear, the harder and long the trigger pull will get. something to keep in mind.
|08-03-2006, 05:04 AM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
i make the adapter plates also. $23 shipped.
i would be very surprised if the sear needed to have the height altered. an autococker frame generally has 90-100 thousandths extra sear height built in compared to the stock sheridan frame. however, if the roll pin in the hammer is worn enough , or the sear is worn enough, it will not reliably catch. i suggest checking both of them out. you can grind the profile of the sear to be slightly more 'sharp' and vertical to help out. also make sure that any velocity adjuster is backed out. minor catch length differences mean that you may be hitting the binding point of the spring preventing the sear from catching.
|08-03-2006, 11:59 AM||#8 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lynn, Ma
Milling the frame and fully altering the internals is the best way to go for a short and smooth trigger pull. The standard geometry of the WGP trigger frames is off just enough to muddle things up. ( long pull and poor release or the hammer)
|Thread Tools||Search this Thread|