![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
|
| Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here! |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| | #1 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: May 2009 | Taking the feed neck off pmi trracer?
Want to convert the a central hole in the top of the body, first thing is to get the old feed neck off completely. I believe they are welded on so in a vice and smack with hammer? Or tap with hammer? Can't mill, ain't got one ( hell I'm going to have to borrow the vice!). Then have at it with a dremel?
|
| | |
| | #2 (permalink) |
| Brass Monkey Customs |
I would suggest cutting any visible weld, before laying on with the hammer. Less likelyhood of distorting the body in the feedneck removal process. Remember the body is aluminium. Are you planning to patch the original hole, or simply dremel in a new one? Ty
__________________ Brass Monkey Customs ![]() If you were doing business with me via text message, please send me a text with your name, as my phone has killed my contact list. Thank you in advance.![]() ![]() Brass Freak compatible and Equation inserts in .665, .670, .675, .678, .680 and .685 Still selling brass tubing, with .678 barrel stock now available! My feedback: MCB - eBay - AO |
| | |
| | #3 (permalink) | |
| MCB Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Toronto | Quote:
| |
| | |
| | #4 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Yorktown,VA |
i cut mine off as close to the body as i could get with a hack saw and sanded the rest smooth from there took 20 mins at most just for the record that ^ was about paintball
__________________ Saepe Expertus, Semper Fidelis, Fratres Aeterni BOOG Brothers Custom Paintball |
| | |
| | #5 (permalink) |
| MCB Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Nor Cal |
Mike, I think those bodies are threaded and loctited in. Try heating it on the stove or boiling and then attempting to unscrew the new. If they are threaded there are likely three pieces, the neck, a cover that hides threads and covers the portion of the neck that meets the body and then the body itself. Worst case scenario, you cant break the loctite and do end up cutting them off. -Dan |
| | |
| | #8 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: May 2009 |
okay I've had a rethink, the overall aim here is to be able to mount two bodies side by side to try and create a nasty trracer. I've a disgustingly ugly solution for the trigger group of placing two existing trigger groups unmolested side by side with a gap to account for the extra width of the bodies, then attach a trigger by getting a longer trigger pin to go all the way through the two existing triggers and through the new trigger in the middle. a bar attached to this new trigger to pull the two existing ones. I aim to mount a grip between the blocks that the old grips attach to to hold it all together and give the correct spacing between the frames. I'll get more use out if it open class so any ideas on converting from right feed to left for one of the bodies? |
| | |
| | #10 (permalink) | |
| Post Whore Join Date: Oct 2009 | Quote:
![]() Just throw it in for a minute or so, take it out n try it. If it doesnt work, throw it back in for a bit longer. Its not really an exact science but it really shouldnt take too long. U just needa heat it up till the loctite loosens up. Never tried it, but a hot hair dryer might work too. | |
| | |
![]() |
|
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|