mcarterbrown.com  

Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-28-2012, 05:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2006

pile of poo, HARD MODE, automag pistol

<<<<VOTE HERE>>>>

THE INTRODUCTION:
i am giving myself an extra rule which i call "HARD MODE" that mandates: the tools used to fabricate custom parts must be included in the $100.

why hard mode? because anyone with a mill can impress.

this is a poo polishing contest with a $100 spending limit, the spirit is lost if i can just get a $2000 cnc to mill a $10 raw metal into a brand new flowery custom part. a true poo polisher would only replace poo with poo, not abandon half the poo for flowers.

and so, i opt for my hard mode, because i have a hard on for poo. we are doing this not because it is easy, but because it is HARD.

LE BEFORE:


DAS AFTER:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqrpH_Pr4xk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A7IV3uWLlo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZsqcPAz7y8


Last edited by heinous; 11-06-2012 at 04:35 AM.
heinous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 05:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2006

EL DEVELOPMENT:


the starting poo is a problematic, formerly rental automag i got off ebay long ago:


it is stock except for a smart mag rental valve, which has seen better days.


the twist-lock barrel didn't fare any better. someone decided to twist it before it was fully inserted, and left it stuck that way until i disassembled the whole gun. you can clearly see the twist lock scar:


the inside of the barrel is no better:


the main body is fine, but the body rail was very beat up with the vertical adapter stuck on it for good. the grip frame functions fine besides the safety which was rusted stuck. other than that the grip frame has rental etchings to identify itself, which is purely cosmetic:


the valve is a different matter:


the velocity spring pack is a MESS. at least everything else inside looks clean. rebuilding regardless may be a good idea.

for this project i am also recruiting another poo from my pile. besides a nice matching rifled barrel, it has the added advantage of replacing the body rail so the stuck vertical adapter problem is gone altogether. this damaged ptp micromag body was originally someone's ion mag project. i bought it with an x-valve, an ion frame attached to the body via a plate, as well as matching barrel and foregrip. obviously the partially disassembled sear came with the body as well, but i am just going to use the complete sear from the rental. i have since transferred the x-valve to my own mag, and the body has been sitting in the poo pile ever since, with me having no clue what to do with it, until now.


the damage is on the feedneck. it is slightly crushed and no longer circular enough to fit any of my hoppers.


before modifying anything, i decided to clean everything. this is the halfway pic of the rental spring pack being cleaned.


after a little research, it appears the rental spring pack has deliberately limited fps, so i ordered a replacement stock spring pack. however, i decided to stay with the rental spring pack after cleaning it to avoid adding the spring pack's price to the tab, because this is a limited budget build and because it looked good as new after cleaning:


after a little cleaning, the rust on the grip frame safety was removed and it worked fine. as for the main spring, i got all the gunk off only to see that the surface itself is black. the rental package came with a parts kit which i was using to rebuild the inside anyway, so i decided to also use its main spring. old one is out. result:


the air fitting is stuck. i cleaned it as neatly as possible but it won't move, so i have to plan the project around this somehow.


the valve itself also has rental identification etched onto its body. also note the velocity thumb wheel which i bought used off bacci in person. i didn't really need it, but i was buying a mag sear from him for my other mag anyway, and i anticipated staying at the chrono station for a little while, so i could use the convenience. $5 according to his website.


<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
>>>

with the gun squeaky clean, modification is next in line. keep in mind this is HARD MODE ,where the equipment used to make custom parts factor into the total cost, so before beginning, i decided it would be wise to choose and adhere to a single power too as best as possible in order to keep the cost of this project to a minimum. it wasn't long before i decided upon the rotary tool, one of the most versatile power tools around. i already own one, which means i should check the going price of one in order to keep it fair. there was one for sale at a local hardware store for less than ten bucks, but i opted for more reasonable prices, and a quick search online reveals that the off-brand dremel copies are usually $30.

<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
>>>

the first order of modification is getting some ideas. the ptp micromag body can't use a hopper because the feedneck is warped. i could try to bend it back into shape, but i also happen to have a spare magazine for one of my 32 degrees delta 68 pistols, which mounts onto a specially milled dovetail rail atop the gun. the micromag body also happens to have a dovetail rail on its top face, so the idea came that maybe i can mimic the milling from the pistol rail onto the micromag rail, so that the micromag body can accommodate those magazines.

going that route would mean the feedneck is in the way altogether, and upon closer inspection it appears to be a separate piece of metal from the rest of the body. looking up the product online revealed that there are two types of micromag bodies: those with threaded feednecks and those with pressed-fit feednecks. another look at my own micromag body suggested mine was pressed fit, so the next problem would be its removal. based on posts online from others who have tried to remove the feed necks, the process requires a special tool. i am not a fan of that idea because this is, once again, a limited budget build. a final decision was made to outright cut the feedneck.

i was initially against cutting the feedneck because the surface would not be as clean as a completely removed feedneck, but at that point the choice was obvious, it was the easiest and cheapest route, especially since i already have the dremel. still, it took quite a few cutoff discs before the feedneck was completely cut off.


on the delta pistol, overhangs were milled into the dovetail rail to hook onto pins on the magazine. however, the magazine has 3 pins, making the entire setup too long on the forward side to fit onto the micromag dovetail rail. if you don't understand, there will be pictures later. anyway, to remedy this, the magazine was modified to only use 2 pins. the locking mechanism of the outer pin was replicated on the middle pin to shorten the length of rail required for securely anchoring the magazine. i can imagine the original design would be more secure due to better leverage, but working with the limited length of rail forward of the micromag body feedneck does not leave another choice. sadly, another problem occurred with this change to the magazine: the small springs for the anchoring mechanism, which resided on one side of the middle pin, now has to reside on the other side, directly below the paintball exit. they were tiny springs but were just wide enough to prevent paintballs from going through.


and so i made a trip to the hardware store. the original tiny springs were compression springs, and i purchased extension springs of matching size. they were 0.89 each and i needed a pair.


<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
>>>

the ends of the springs were round, but for my customization they needed to have one end rectangular, so pliers were used to bend them into shape. because this is HARD MODE , and because the pliers were just used to modify a part, they now have to factor into the cost. like the dremel, i already own the pliers, and so the current price was looked up, and i could buy a cheap pair locally for under $3, so let's just say $3 to keep the math generous.

<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
>>>

below you can see the disassembled anchoring mechanism. the magazine is in the background, the locking pin to the left, stock springs in the middle, uncustomized new spring upper right and customized spring bottom right.


once all the parts are present and ready, the locking pin was inserted into the magazine, threading through the springs; the springs were then hooked to the end of their housing.


now, instead of springs on one side below the paintballs pushing the pin to the locking position, there are springs on the other side out of the way of the paintballs pulling the pin to the locking position, and it was true, and it was good. as an added bonus: the magazine is relatively unmodified enough so that it can still be reverted back to be used on the original delta 68 pistol. the original springs can be reused for this purpose and all i would need is a new pin to go into the lengthened pin slot.

Last edited by heinous; 10-28-2012 at 05:39 PM.
heinous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 05:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2006

the focus can now finally return to the body. now that the positions of the locking pins are set in stone, they were measured and the same length was marked on the micromag rail over the feedneck. then, using the good old dremel, slowly and carefully, the necessary hooks were cut into place.


then, sandpaper folded over a bar of scrap brass was used to sand out any sharp bits and flatten the cuts. this isn't just for show: paintballs are delicate after all, and might break if traveling past some sharp bits. once again, because this is HARD MODE, the sand paper and scrap brass must be factored into the budget now that they have modified the body. once again these are things that i possess prior to this project, so their prices were looked up. a strip of brass was about $3 at the arts and crafts store while cheap sandpaper was $2.

<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
sandpaper $2
brass bars $3
>>>

in any case, the cut is now clean:


in the end, the most important thing is fit, so testing the magazine with the body was the next step. the dremel was used again to fine tune the shape of the feedneck area to fit the magazine pins. sanding was not done at this point: if the area is fine it was left alone. the end result is below:


it is on perfectly straight, the original iron sights on the magazine can still be used. here the whole thing is assembled and held in the air to prove that the magazine is securely attached to the body:


this is a poo polishing project, so why stop there while the dremel was still out, ready to polish some more? on this particular magazine, reloading was done by removing the power feed plug and dumping paint through its opening. it is tedious and risky because the power feed is a tight fit and it has no strings attached, making it easy to lose. i was already familiar with the delta 68 pistols, and knew that the member agentsmith is pretty much the expert on modifications to make reloading an easier task. researching online quickly resulted in posts by him describing the customization he used. Poor mans front feed mod agentsmith's method involves drilling a reloading hole toward the front of the magazine to allow for reloads while maintaining your aim. the drawback was the magazine spring's tendency to bend and jump outside of the tube through that new hole, because the hole was at the base of the spring where it provides the spring an escape whenever the spring is under pressure. his remedy was to bend the spring at the appropriate places, and he has it down to a science. further browsing uncovered posts by pistolrogue in which he has augmented agentsmith's method with a spring guide. Making the SA17 A More User-Friendly Primary this requires an extra hole to be drilled and material to build the guide.

i opted against agentsmith's method because i have no source for new magazine springs, meaning in case i somehow ruin the stock one while bending it then i would be out of luck. i also opted against pistolrogue's method because this is a limited budget build and i lack any cylindrical scraps to build a spring guide, meaning i would have to spend money to make the spring guide. neither method is appropriate here, but i have my own way of doing things.


as you can see above, there's already an existing hole directly over the breech. i simply enlarged it with a grinding drum on my dremel until paintballs fit.


reloading was then a simple task of twisting the powerfeed 180 degrees instead of having to yank it out entirely. you can't aim and reload at the same time like agentsmith's method, but that's not a big deal to me. the only big downside is while you can reload 10 shots, you can only reload 9 quickly. if you dump 10 shots in there and turn the powerfeed too quickly you might pinch the last ball if you're not careful. in any case an extra shot can be housed between the magazine and the breech due to the height of the rail, so even if you dump 9 balls into the tube, you should still get the regular 10 shots with an 11th in the breech. the powerfeed now can also double as a block to keep paintballs from rolling out the hole during a game, and because the hole is on the far end of the spring, it never jumps out. in fact the hole is actually out of reach of the spring thanks to its spacer at the end.

improved loading with no bent springs and no extra money spent, perfect for a limited budget poo contest. here is a size comparison of the original hole versus the newly enlarged hole for feeding:


and here it is again at another angle:


also here is the delta 68 pistol breech at the top, stock magazine upper middle, modified magazine lower middle, and modified micromag breech at the bottom for comparison. notice the distance between the hooks on the delta is too much, and that too much of it is forward of the breech, so that there is not enough length of dovetail rail on the micromag body to create a full size replica. however, it is perfectly sized for using just 2 pins.


the next task on the list is air source. i currently only have a 45/4500 hpa tank, and although i could use it, i chose to go the path of 12 grams. the tank would work but would also be bulky and i wanted to add some class to this pool. so $12 it was, to buy myself a used 12 gram changer from sean chip. with both ball loading method and air source decided upon, this poo build is now clearly directing itself toward being a pistol.

<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
brass bars $3
>>>

the answer of where to mount the 12 gram changer was based on a more practical reasoning. initially i went back to agentsmith, this time actively consulting him. The final AgentSmith. it turns out that in his agd sydarm days he would have a lever changer under the barrel to alleviate liquid co2 issues. unfortunately no such mounting option exists on this body, and the closest thing would be a vertical foregrip, which i rejected because it does not fit the form of a pistol. there is no point for both a compact ball source and a compact air source if it was going to be set up in a bulky fashion. the focus then shifted to a traditional bottomline. after further consideration, that position was also rejected, this time due to the length of macroline that would be necessary. i have tried out how it feels for a macroline to run along as part of the grip frame to be held in the palm during use and i did not like it. furthermore, a long macroline is just more places for co2 to make a burst, so placing part of it in the palm didn't sound like a good idea to me at all. on the other hand, if you make the macroline curve along the front or back, you're making the macroline even longer.

the final chosen spot may actually be the worst in agentsmith's eyes, and that is directly above the valve, where liquid has the highest chance to flow into the valve causing the gun to freeze. this may be completely opposite of what was recommended, however not all is bad news. the stuck angle at which the air fittings stick out of the valve means the line heading out of the 12 gram changer would need to be slightly pointing up. this acts as a little dam to help prevent liquid from falling into the valve, furthermore the macroline is now extremely short. in addition, the top of the body has that dovetail rail running down its entire length which i can utilize, because at the same time i have a rail on/off asa lying around that i have been using as a simple reg tester. had i opted for bottomline, i would need to go find an asa with screw holes and remove it from one of my other guns, so despite the risks involved, this decision has its advantages from a project standpoint. on top of it all, it also looks awesome. see for yourself the finished gun:


with the gun complete, off i went to the "autocockers vs automags" private group event held earlier this year. unfortunately, it was early august in the desert and this year's summer was extremely hot. it was 100+ degrees, possibly even 110+ degrees fahrenheit that day and simply sitting in the shade was still able to tire you out. this heat presented a problem during play, where the tiny 2 inch macroline managed to burst. i bought a very short steel hose off bacci as replacement, but decided to try another length of macroline first, and this time the macroline was fine for the rest of the day. i believe holding the gun muzzle up between games helps. however, the gun did freeze a few times when liquid seeped into the valve, the trigger became extremely hard to activate, but it fixed itself within seconds every time. i managed to play a game against bacci with it and actually hit him, but his gun was malfunctioning so it really shouldn't count... this gun at the chrono station got a modest velocity of around 268 fps if i recall correctly. i did not attempt to increase it higher because i remember the spring pack was of a rental variety, with limited fps.

and so the gun is in working condition at this point, with the money spent being listed here:

<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
brass bars $3

total: $56.92
>>>

at this point i realized i have merely spent half of the budget, with more than 2 months left before the deadline. knowing the likes of great artists such as walz have not only joined in on this poo polishing fray, in addition to me being on this self-imposed HARD MODE idea, i realized a plain functional gun is not good enough to wow anybody here, and that i must further polish up this pile of poo in order to stay competitive. after all, it's ****ing walz, have you seen any of his divine products in person? i mean god ****ing damn it man how the **** are we supposed to compete against that guy? how can my entry stand out? what can i build that other builders like him does not think of?

that's the question i asked myself, and while coming up with the answer, i spent my time working on my other project (yes, i have another unrelated project in the works), browsing the internet, looking at funny cats, gangnam style videos, and funny cats reacting to gangnam style videos. this dragged on until i saw a post on russc's wall that made me joke about doing gangnam style during a game. at that moment, i realized i just gave myself the answer.

walz (probably) does not think of gangnam style during a game. i do.

you know how pistols have attachments like LAMs (laser aiming modules) and LLMs (laser light modules)? i have always found those to be tacticool, so i'm going to build my own module of a brand new class, a TSM.

Last edited by heinous; 10-28-2012 at 08:12 PM.
heinous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 05:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2006

THEME SONG MODULE

so with $40 or so left in the budget, i set off to realize my newfound objective, and although i may be just spending $40 on something that might not work at the end of the day, i was okay with that, because as you may know:


and not just any message, but a very special message in korean by a guy named psy; and the race was on, because gangnam style's bound to fall out of popularity sooner or later. (actually i could always do rick roll instead but gangnam style's more energetic)

the first order of things is the speakers. the mag pistol is actually quite a large gun, so it may be able to accommodate a large size module. nonetheless, i set out to find the smallest set of stereo speakers readily available, and was able to scout out a pair of insignia flat panel portable speakers for laptops the low price of $17. they are perfect, sleek, amplified, and can run off batteries. they even come with their own tiny portable battery box.

alas, putting them next to the mag pistol brings things into perspective, these tiny speakers are still too large. i had to find another candidate, which i quickly spotted in the form of a keychain portable speaker at the extremely low price of $10. it's a cube roughly the dimensions of the new ipod shuffle. sadly, i couldn't find a black one, and i wanted to squeeze everything possible out of my budget by making the gun both functional and stylish, so that didn't work out. it may have been for the better because it may not be a very loud speaker anyway.

the next hopeful came in the form of the hmdx jam portable wireless speaker. the quirky packaging caught my eye, and upon closer inspection it is a tiny bluetooth speaker that is also amplified by a rechargeable battery. i thought i had found the speaker i needed until i looked at the price tag: $50 lol **** that.

at long last, my adventures at the electronics department of every chain store in the area has landed me in front of the ihome expandable portable speaker. i snatched one at the fair price of $22.62, deciding to go with the mono version for its price as well as shape: 2 round speakers wouldn't look as good as just 1.


<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
ihome speaker $22.62
brass bars $3
>>>

i didn't take pictures of the speaker by itself, but here's one from the intenet, mine is just translucent black.


with the rat race for a speaker over, attention now goes to how to mount it. here, the previous decision to place the 12 gram changer above the valve paid off. the unused screw hole under the barrel, normally used for foregrips, now offers a place to anchor the speaker. returning to the scrap brass assortment, this time i pick out a thinner strip to fabricate a mounting plate. the thinner choice allows me to easily shape it using the same pair of pliers that i have already factored into the budget, allowing me to save costs. the dremel was used to drill the screw hole for the same budget-saving reason. drilling the hole on the plate for the screw was more difficult than drilling things on the body, because this part is smaller; so i had no choice but to use a quick release bar clamp. HARD MODE rules mandate i add it to the budget since the clamp participated in fabricating a custom part. the bar clamp was bought for $2.14.


<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
ihome speaker $22.62
brass bars $3
quick release bar clamp $2.14
>>>

here is a progress picture of the brass mounting plate with 1 hole drilled:


however, i am not satisfied with the brass color. the rest of the gun is either nearly black or chrome, a single piece of brass sticks out like a sore thumb. on the other hand, a can of spray paint is expensive in the perspective of this build. i am at this point $80.68 into the budget and am really pushing it to a greater extent than i feel comfortable. therefor i brainstormed all my viable coloring options. i could always get a dollar sharpie and fill the brass with black ink, but that ultimately looks way too ugly. after some thinking i decided to cover the brass with tape, and between black electric tape and black duct tape, both of which are in my possession, i chose the latter for its versatility. they're cheap at the right stores and i'm not using nearly the entire roll of duct tape here, but let's face this HARD MODE budget build challenge head-on and use the price of the whole roll: $2, which is overkill anyway.
<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
ihome speaker $22.62
1brass bars $3
quick release bar clamp $2.14
duct tape $2
>>>

with the plate covered up, i still need to get the correct screw to anchor it to the body, so a return trip to the hardware store again resulted in me finding the right screw for this at the price of $0.12. yes, the screw matters too. this is a poo polishing contest, you gotta be fair and count the things you didn't just find in your bin.


<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
ihome speaker $22.62
brass bars $3
screw $0.12
quick release bar clamp $2.14
duct tape $2
>>>

after all is said and done, the plate is finally test-fitted. here it is on the foregrip attachment using the new screw:


during the test fit, it became apparent that the cord for the speaker is way too long. i had intended for my mp3 player to be attached to the grip panels like one would find the laser switch on a LAM. the cord must be like 3 feet long, with a huge clip to organize it that you cannot remove without destroying, which makes sense for its intended purposes for a laptop, but not here. i can wrap it around the gun like 4 times. to be more exact, i HAVE to wrap it around the gun like 4 times to get it out of the way. it would work, but it is not up to my standards in terms of style. this is a poo polishing contest, my poo needs to be shiny at the end of the day.
to make matters worse, the cord seems to be proprietary, so not only might radioshack lack what i need to make a new cord; but if i wanted to shorten it, i may not be able to find a replacement in case of failure. worst of all i was pressed for time. at this point in the building process, i am at the night before the private group in which i intend to show up to test this gun. sure, i could always go to a walk on game another weekend, but i don't want to do that, because the weather was still hot as hell at this point and truth be told: i really couldn't be arsed to go to the park if there wasn't going to be a group of friends waiting there. not even to test my project, not in this hot *** weather, in the desert, no way, no how.

with all of this in my mind, while i also have less than 20 bucks to spend, i convinced myself that a trip to radioshack isn't even worth it. i ended up going to the 24 hour drug store next door to see if a product exists that organizes wires. i was in luck and purchased this cord wrap, probably at an inflated price, but still probably cheaper and quicker than modifying the cord. internet product photo:


like i said, i probably bought it at an inflated price, but i am fairly confident it would cost time and money to either shorten or make a brand new cord, only to still be unsure if that would work afterwards. all in all i believe this was the right decision, and it cost me $6.45


<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
ihome speaker $22.62
brass bars $3
screw $0.12
quick release bar clamp $2.14
cord wrap $6.45
duct tape $2
>>>

opening up the cord wrap at home reveals hooks inside for the cord, but immediately i thought of other ways to utilize them.


however, first it needs to be attached to the brass plate. originally double sided tape was going to be used to simply stick the speaker to the plate. now with this cord wrap, the plan has changed. testing the fit, i find the size of everything together was still acceptable as a pistol "module," and after a few juxtaposition attempts i decided to place the cord wrap between the plate and speaker. 2 small holes were drilled on the plate and matching holes were drilled on one side of the cord wrap. the holes were once again drilled with the dremel to save cost.


the holes were meant for steel wires, which i have. i use them for my helmet camera, and the creativity i developed while figuring out how to attach that thing to my mask is paying off here and now. the foresight to use pliers also paid off as well, because i'm using the same pair to cut and shape the wires.
still, it needed to be more secure than just wires if i wanted the theme song module to not fall apart. therefor i am employing the double sided tape i was going to use to mount the speaker here as well.


this is the strongest roll of double sided tape in the store and it cost me $7.51, and yes, because this is HARD MODE, it counts. the price for the whole roll is going into the budget.

<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
ihome speaker $22.62
brass bars $3
screw $0.12
quick release bar clamp $2.14
cord wrap $6.45
duct tape $2
extreme mounting tape $7.51
>>>

so the wires were taken out, the double side tape applied, the cord wrap holes aligned with the brass plate holes, adhered to each other, and the steel wires were reinserted here to thread through the holes for a more solid attachment. i've already mentioned i already own the steel wires, but a quick look on google reveals they are only $2 for the cheapest rolls anyway, and that's also for a whole roll here and i'm not using nearly a whole roll of anything.

<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
ihome speaker $22.62
brass bars $3
screw $0.12
quick release bar clamp $2.14
cord wrap $6.45
duct tape $2
wires $2
extreme mounting tape $7.51
>>>

once the wires are secured, the ends were positioned inside the cord wrap, twisted tight, and then covered with duct tape to avoid damaging the speaker cord in the future. duct tape is already part of the budget, so the choice to tape the plate instead of painting it was a wise choice after all.


moving on to the speaker. the bottom of it has a sticker for identification. it isn't helping the build, and having it there will only hinder the adherence of the double sided tape, so it has to go. luckily it comes off with some careful pulling, in one piece, no less.


the double sided tape is finally applied to the back of the speaker.


the same tape was applied to the cord wrap, then the speaker was aligned carefully and pressed onto the cord wrap. 2 layers of squishy double sided tape were used here. the idea is that since the surface of the cord wrap isn't flat, the fluff of the 2 layers would hopefully help increase the surface area that is being adhered.


more wires were used to wrap around the speaker to anchor it to the cord wrap more securely, but that wasn't pictured above. in any case, the cord is then neatly wrapped and placed into the cord wrap casing, with the necessary plugs poking out. the mp3 player is about to be wrapped to the grip. i already own the mp3 player and it is not being used to make a custom part, so it counts as my poo pile as far as budget goes even according to HARD MODE rules. the back of it has a big clip which i was going to fully utilize.


the elastic band also comes from my pile of non-paintball related poo. it's a laser button holder for an old airsoft pistol's laser aiming module, and it just wraps around the grip nicely. of course i always had the option of using the black duct tape here as well, but looks matter, and i already have an elastic band originally made for this purpose, so i may as well use it.


the thin brass that was chosen as the attachment plate was easy to shape, but presented its own problems. its lack of rigidity allows the TSM to wobble quite a bit. while it would never show in pictures, it is not good enough for me. i want it to be also functional and i imagined hearing a song from a wobbling directional speaker, and its volume is going to be quite annoying. on the other hand i am $99.76 into the budget and am really pinching pennies here. there was no way i could get any raw materials to anchor something for under a quarter...

enter duct tape. once again the foresight in component choice swoops in to save the day. a short length was ripped and rolled carefully, then folded in half for a even more 3 dimensional shape. every roll was pulled tight to ensure a solid chunk of duct tape was the result.


it was then wedged in the gap between the brass plate and trigger guard, then simply secured with even more duct tape. the TSM was now successfully and securely attached to the gun.

Last edited by heinous; 10-28-2012 at 05:31 PM.
heinous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 05:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2006

and the gun is now truly complete:


close up of the hose arrangement. after the hot desert day, the new length of macroline has yet to fail. so far it's been working superbly well.


the 2 components i bought right before the first testing: the 12 gram changer and the velocity thumb wheel:


you can see in the picture below, the raw and threaded screw hole drilled and threaded by the previous owner who was using this mag body to build an ion mag. it just sits open now, a remnant of its unpolished poo days.


size comparison of the completed mag pistol with TSM with the 32 degrees delta 68 pistol, both aligned at the breech. the mag pistol takes up significantly larger room compared to the delta 68, which anyone who has used one would tell you is already a huge pistol compared to others.


and the same arrangement from another angle, this one showing the extra length both ways on the mag pistol.


lastly and most importantly, the objective of having gangnam style on a paintball field was successfully realized!


pro tip: if you play the soviet union national anthem it becomes a propaganda module...

by the way, remember to vote...

final cost tally:
<<<money spent
velocity thumb wheel $5
dremel $30
2 springs $1.92
pliers $3
12 gram changer $12
sandpaper $2
ihome speaker $22.62
brass bars $3
screw $0.12
quick release bar clamp $2.14
cord wrap $6.45
duct tape $2
wires $2
extreme mounting tape $7.51

total: $99.76
>>>

Last edited by heinous; 10-28-2012 at 08:16 PM.
heinous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 05:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
I got 99 Problems
 
moving_target's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: and Maine ain't one

Videos are blocked in USA...
__________________
My Feedback

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spider! View Post
I'm gonna pop some aggs.
Only got 20 rounds in my pocket.
I'm huntin'
Looking for some cover,
This is ****ing awesome.
moving_target is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 05:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2006

Quote:
Originally Posted by moving_target View Post
Videos are blocked in USA...
fffuuuu
heinous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 06:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
SoCal's tango instructor.
 
Whee McGee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southern California
Send a message via AIM to Whee McGee

Can't wait to see he video, but the read was definitely worth it.
__________________

Feedback: AO, The Nation, and here
Whee McGee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 06:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2006

i had to choose a song provided by youtube, so i did that.

it seems to play now with original audio while youtube is converting my choice, so watch it while you can!
heinous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2012, 06:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
SoCal's tango instructor.
 
Whee McGee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southern California
Send a message via AIM to Whee McGee

It's set to private.
__________________

Feedback: AO, The Nation, and here
Whee McGee is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  mcarterbrown.com » Custom » Custom Projects / Custom Questions

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO
© MCB Network LLC