Cracked front block on Autonelson kit
Hey guys, not sure why this was deleted the first time I posted it, if I am doing something wrong, please tell me what...
Anyways, in my quest to get a macro line connector to sit flush to the bottom of the front block (I know, :censored:), I managed to crack the front block:
Now I was wondering if people thought this solution would work:
Fill in the bottom threaded hole with JBweld, completely. Then use a Male-Female-Female Tee 1/8 NPT connection screwed into the port the LPR typically screws into, so the LPR would sit further out from the front block than normal, but I could run a line directly to the middle port of the T to function as the air source.
The only concerns I have are:
Never worked with JBWeld before, so I don't know how well this will seal. I am hoping since the internal connection between the two ports is directly opposite the crack, that filling the entire port with JBwel would prevent air leaking from the crack.
Would I be better off trying to close the male port of the T, and forgetting about the bottom air-inlet port completely?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks
those fitting threads are tapered, the further you screw them in, the more it tries to expand the hole. you actually don't need it flush, just wherever it can hold a seal.
i would just have an lpr at the asa and run a microline to the 3way.
Yeah I know, I am a bonehead, I wanted it flush so as to "look" better. I have thought about the lpr off the asa, but I would prefer if it could still be hidden under the pneu-cover I have. While the lpr will stick out further with a T in between the hole and it, I am using a palmer's micro-rock so I think I will still have enough clearance inside the pneu-cover.
Does anybody think the JBWeld approach will not work?
If it were me, I'd bore the existing hole out oversize, probably something like 7/16" fine, or even 1/2" fine. Turn a slug of aluminum to the appropriate thread, slather it with JB Weld (or Loctite sleeve retainer or even just red Loctite- whatever suits) and screw 'er in there.
Once it's cured, face it flush, then redrill and tap back to 1/8" pipe. You'll need to make sure the new slug goes in as deep as the crack, and you might have to redrill an internal passage depending on how the air is routed inside the frame (it's been years since I dealt with an AutoTrracer) but it should give you a nice, permanent solution.
For that matter, with a little work, you could even install a vertical ASA- with the sleeved hole, you could reduce it down to a 1/4"-28 bolt hole and attach a 'Cocker ASA.
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