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Old 11-27-2012, 12:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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red isnt taking i was dumb and room temp warm water to rinse after the blue :<



took the red off ill give it another go tommarow :P




water was very cold for the blue
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Looking good man, once you get your methods worked out, we may have to talk about getting some anodizing done. Depending on where you're located in Akron, you may be fairly local to me.

Are you doing any sort of surface prep such as media blasting before anodizing?
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Im actually in hartville surface prep i have a couple heavy duty adjitators and time. Then to he buffing wheel
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:46 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Sounds like you've got a decent setup, do you think you could match the finish on a tiberius marker for example, it's just a simple black anodize with what I'm guessing is a bead or light abrasive surface prep. I may have quite a few compensators among other pieces that I'd like to get anodized in the future, all aluminum I use is 6061.

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Old 11-27-2012, 12:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I havnt really mastered the art of matching colors yet. I certianly could make it a mat black though which that gun looks to be. yes I Can etch/prep surface
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Lane View Post
Sounds like you've got a decent setup, do you think you could match the finish on a tiberius marker for example, it's just a simple black anodize with what I'm guessing is a bead or light abrasive surface prep. I may have quite a few compensators among other pieces that I'd like to get anodized in the future, all aluminum I use is 6061.

http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...2/DSCN1716.jpg
Since the black on a Tib is a duller almost grey colour it is most likely that they used a #8 or finer glass bead for surface finishing.

TFrevold:

After removing the previous blue layer be sure to reopen the anodize pores by dipping the part in a acid solution similiar to your anodize bath. That what looks like your issue is.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:04 AM   #17 (permalink)
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do i need to throw electricity at it?
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Nope just a quick dip and you are off to rinse and dye. What you are doing there is opening the wick and getting rid of the left over metal salt or dye pigment that bleach didn't catch.

If you soak it for a minute or two you can sometimes get rid of defects form contamination or not rinsing properly.

Too long and you end up with noticeable dissolution. So watch out for that.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Cool thanks for the help :P
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
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best of luck, from one home anodizer to another. Red can be tricky I've found, the pH has to be just right or it can throw it off, right now I need to re-adjust my red dye pH it has been causing sealing problems whenever I use it.

What are you hanging you parts with? AL or Ti? Im looking for some Ti rods but dont know the best place to find them
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