tymcneer KP2 for pre 2k build off

tymcneer · 09-06-2007, 10:37 PM

09-05-07 - Day 01

I have done the basic disassembly on the KP2. Various parts are in horrible shape. There are a number of larger pieces missing, including the bolt, pump rod, and CA adaptor/CO2 plug.

I also stopped by Altec's house on the way home from work and took possession of the tools he was so very graciously made for me. (They are the ones in the upper left corner of the photo.) Thanks!

More pictures are here

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/...00/ppuser/1287

WARNING: I am NOT a photographer. Pictures may be out of focus, over/under exposed, or just plain old suck. Consider yourself warned!

tymcneer · 09-06-2007, 10:46 PM

09-06-07 - Day 02

I removed the valve. It is in sorry shape!

I will post pictures to my gallery tomorrow, as the digital camera is currently unavailable.

I also began to polish the grunge off of the body. So far I've done it all by hand, but tomorrow I plan to break out the dremel and a scotch brite wheel.

As I promised, I have managed to uncover the serial number...

<drum roll>

B024061

More tomorrow...

tymcneer · 09-08-2007, 02:53 AM

09-07-07 Day 3

I had a friend suggest using a "rust eraser" to remove the more stubborn spots of corrosion. It has worked wonders.

Tomorrow (later today, Saturday) I am going out to play a few minutes of paintball and install their telephone lines, then it is back to this project. The projects for that day will be to remove all of the epoxy that someone used to anchor the direct feed, and remove the mangled feed tube.

Project status:

The brass I need is on order and will arrive on Monday, or Tuesday, at the latest. I will have PLENTY to sell. Contact me about prices, lengths, shipping, etc.

I found the bolt I had purchased from another MCB member. When I find your name again, I will thank you properly. As an interesting note, I discovered that one of my later model autococker bolts is an exact match for the KP... Could prove interesting/useful later.

I have located my MAPP gas torch, and found out that the local Walmart had put 3 MAPP cyclinders on clearance... $4 each. Needless to say, I purchased them all. I have also located the flux and the solder from the stained glass kit.

If all goes well, this will be a moderately productive, and enjoyable weekend.

tymcneer · 09-09-2007, 12:28 AM

09-08-07 - Day 4

Today was NOT productive. We played a little bit of paintball. I might have made a "pump" convert. The people we were playing with were absolutely amazed at the accuracy of my Sniper. At one point they complained that I had an "unfair advantage"

I convinced one of their number to use the Sniper for a game or two, and he was astounded. Needless to say I pointed him toward the MCB forum. I also told him to watch for the next Pump It Up day at Outdoor Adventures.

tymcneer · 09-09-2007, 11:16 PM

09-09-07 - Day 5

The brass order is arriving tomorrow. I will be parting with some of it, as soon as it arrives, and I figure out where to post the "for sale" ad.

The mangled feed tube has been desoldered. As an interesting tibit of wisdom... When you are desoldering the feed tube, use a "Hothead" torch for doing glass lamp work. As fuel, use MAPP gas instead of propane. When heating the tube, I found that running the flame down the inside of the feed tube caused the solder to melt very evenly, without heating the barrel and valve tube excessively. On to the eye candy.

Unfortunately, after I looked really carefully, I discovered that I had melted away about one third of the length of the solder between the barrel and valve tube.

I guess I will have to put that into the fixture and solder it back up... Or... Maybe I'll just replace the entire barrel...

Decisions, decisions. More on this tomorrow, after I get a chance to look at the brass that shows up.

tymcneer · 09-10-2007, 11:37 PM

09-10-07 - Day 6

Ok... Lots of not much happened today.

First, the brass order arrived. (Pardon my teammate's ugly legs... Hi Rob!)

Second, the brass order managed to break a full length mirror.

Here is what arrived:

From left to right
Reeded tubing (an experimental tight bore barrel) 2 six foot lengths
Feed tube 6 six foot lengths
Valve tube 2 six foot lengths
Barrel tube 4 six foot lengths

A view of the same, from the end (and out of focus... of course)

I will sell pieces of any of this stock.

I was thinking of extending the feed tube about 2 inches, but I am worried that it will look wrong... does anyone have an opinion?

chplnstone · 09-11-2007, 12:40 AM

thats what i planned to do...extend the ammo tube to match the valve tube, then the springfeed would be the full 15 rounds...and extend the rear to allow for a "twist open" ammo feed hole instead of pulling the plug every time

tymcneer · 09-11-2007, 01:14 PM

ChplnStone,

Look into constant force springs...

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail...238&GroupID=65

Tippmann used them in the SMG60/68's. They are pretty cheap, except for shipping

One question... When you patch a barrel, do you use lead based solder or silver solder?

Schmitti · 09-11-2007, 01:28 PM

Silver solder is the best for this kind of work.... but it takes more heat to melt.. so you have to be careful not to melt away the existing lead solder when applying the silver solder (especially the valve body)

E

tymcneer · 09-11-2007, 02:07 PM

Thanks for the advice... I had no idea that silver solder took such a high temperature to melt... 1230 F for the "softest" stuff I could find.

Won't this cause a problem with everything else already soldered onto the assembly becoming "unsoldered"?

When I did a little welding... way back when... we used to use wet rags to "contain" the heat and keep it from spreading too far. Will this work with soldering?

Would it be more intelligent for me to solder the barrel to the valve body with silver solder, and then attach the patch and feed tube using lead solder?

Are there any solders out there that melt at around 600 F versus the 415-460 F of lead based stuff? I found out that Tix makes a very low melting point solder... Something like 275 F, but I am worried that it would be too weak for this aaplication. Any thoughts?

Edit: I think I may have found the product... but I still need to locate a supplier. 5% tin (Sn)/ 95% Lead(Pb) solder melts at 585 F. That would give me enough working room to be able to attach the patch, and still solder on the feed tube without total project failure... Any thoughts?

09-06-2007, 10:37 PM	#1 (permalink)
tymcneer MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore MD	tymcneer KP2 for pre 2k build off 09-05-07 - Day 01 I have done the basic disassembly on the KP2. Various parts are in horrible shape. There are a number of larger pieces missing, including the bolt, pump rod, and CA adaptor/CO2 plug. I also stopped by Altec's house on the way home from work and took possession of the tools he was so very graciously made for me. (They are the ones in the upper left corner of the photo.) Thanks! More pictures are here http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/...00/ppuser/1287 WARNING: I am NOT a photographer. Pictures may be out of focus, over/under exposed, or just plain old suck. Consider yourself warned! Last edited by tymcneer; 09-06-2007 at 10:41 PM..

09-11-2007, 01:28 PM	#9 (permalink)
Schmitti Red=Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Schen. NY	Silver solder is the best for this kind of work.... but it takes more heat to melt.. so you have to be careful not to melt away the existing lead solder when applying the silver solder (especially the valve body) E __________________ Gone fishing

09-11-2007, 02:07 PM	#10 (permalink)
tymcneer MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore MD	Thanks for the advice... I had no idea that silver solder took such a high temperature to melt... 1230 F for the "softest" stuff I could find. Won't this cause a problem with everything else already soldered onto the assembly becoming "unsoldered"? When I did a little welding... way back when... we used to use wet rags to "contain" the heat and keep it from spreading too far. Will this work with soldering? Would it be more intelligent for me to solder the barrel to the valve body with silver solder, and then attach the patch and feed tube using lead solder? Are there any solders out there that melt at around 600 F versus the 415-460 F of lead based stuff? I found out that Tix makes a very low melting point solder... Something like 275 F, but I am worried that it would be too weak for this aaplication. Any thoughts? Edit: I think I may have found the product... but I still need to locate a supplier. 5% tin (Sn)/ 95% Lead(Pb) solder melts at 585 F. That would give me enough working room to be able to attach the patch, and still solder on the feed tube without total project failure... Any thoughts? Last edited by tymcneer; 09-11-2007 at 02:52 PM.. Reason: more information

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09-06-2007, 10:46 PM	#2 (permalink)
tymcneer MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore MD	09-06-07 - Day 02 I removed the valve. It is in sorry shape! I will post pictures to my gallery tomorrow, as the digital camera is currently unavailable. I also began to polish the grunge off of the body. So far I've done it all by hand, but tomorrow I plan to break out the dremel and a scotch brite wheel. As I promised, I have managed to uncover the serial number... <drum roll> B024061 More tomorrow...

09-08-2007, 02:53 AM	#3 (permalink)
tymcneer MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore MD	09-07-07 Day 3 I had a friend suggest using a "rust eraser" to remove the more stubborn spots of corrosion. It has worked wonders. Tomorrow (later today, Saturday) I am going out to play a few minutes of paintball and install their telephone lines, then it is back to this project. The projects for that day will be to remove all of the epoxy that someone used to anchor the direct feed, and remove the mangled feed tube. Project status: The brass I need is on order and will arrive on Monday, or Tuesday, at the latest. I will have PLENTY to sell. Contact me about prices, lengths, shipping, etc. I found the bolt I had purchased from another MCB member. When I find your name again, I will thank you properly. As an interesting note, I discovered that one of my later model autococker bolts is an exact match for the KP... Could prove interesting/useful later. I have located my MAPP gas torch, and found out that the local Walmart had put 3 MAPP cyclinders on clearance... $4 each. Needless to say, I purchased them all. I have also located the flux and the solder from the stained glass kit. If all goes well, this will be a moderately productive, and enjoyable weekend.

09-09-2007, 12:28 AM	#4 (permalink)
tymcneer MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore MD	09-08-07 - Day 4 Today was NOT productive. We played a little bit of paintball. I might have made a "pump" convert. The people we were playing with were absolutely amazed at the accuracy of my Sniper. At one point they complained that I had an "unfair advantage" I convinced one of their number to use the Sniper for a game or two, and he was astounded. Needless to say I pointed him toward the MCB forum. I also told him to watch for the next Pump It Up day at Outdoor Adventures.

09-09-2007, 11:16 PM	#5 (permalink)
tymcneer MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore MD	09-09-07 - Day 5 The brass order is arriving tomorrow. I will be parting with some of it, as soon as it arrives, and I figure out where to post the "for sale" ad. The mangled feed tube has been desoldered. As an interesting tibit of wisdom... When you are desoldering the feed tube, use a "Hothead" torch for doing glass lamp work. As fuel, use MAPP gas instead of propane. When heating the tube, I found that running the flame down the inside of the feed tube caused the solder to melt very evenly, without heating the barrel and valve tube excessively. On to the eye candy. Unfortunately, after I looked really carefully, I discovered that I had melted away about one third of the length of the solder between the barrel and valve tube. I guess I will have to put that into the fixture and solder it back up... Or... Maybe I'll just replace the entire barrel... Decisions, decisions. More on this tomorrow, after I get a chance to look at the brass that shows up.

09-10-2007, 11:37 PM	#6 (permalink)
tymcneer MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore MD	09-10-07 - Day 6 Ok... Lots of not much happened today. First, the brass order arrived. (Pardon my teammate's ugly legs... Hi Rob!) Second, the brass order managed to break a full length mirror. Here is what arrived: From left to right Reeded tubing (an experimental tight bore barrel) 2 six foot lengths Feed tube 6 six foot lengths Valve tube 2 six foot lengths Barrel tube 4 six foot lengths A view of the same, from the end (and out of focus... of course) I will sell pieces of any of this stock. I was thinking of extending the feed tube about 2 inches, but I am worried that it will look wrong... does anyone have an opinion?

09-11-2007, 12:40 AM	#7 (permalink)
chplnstone bringing back the dead Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: pensacola, florida	thats what i planned to do...extend the ammo tube to match the valve tube, then the springfeed would be the full 15 rounds...and extend the rear to allow for a "twist open" ammo feed hole instead of pulling the plug every time

09-11-2007, 01:14 PM	#8 (permalink)
tymcneer MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Baltimore MD	ChplnStone, Look into constant force springs... https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail...238&GroupID=65 Tippmann used them in the SMG60/68's. They are pretty cheap, except for shipping One question... When you patch a barrel, do you use lead based solder or silver solder?