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Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here!

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Old 03-26-2013, 06:07 PM   #21 (permalink)
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New picture. Frame is done, rail is done, trigger needs some work.


Wiring will take place this week. I hope to have it ready to rock and send out for testing come Saturday.


After checking that it was right the solenoid will infact fit into a shocker frame. This will allow a 100% bolt on hyper frame in the form of a shocker. If anyone's interested I will link you the solenoid.

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Old 03-26-2013, 09:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I'm interested in the solenoid, what voltage does it run?

what board are you running? i have a few PMR boards, they're a great size for projects
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:45 PM   #23 (permalink)
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DC framework solenoid HCNE1-0520 [COM62158M] - $5.95 : Seeed Studio Bazaar, Boost ideas, extend the reach


12volt.

This was recommended to me by a teacher at the college. As far as electronics go it's a form of sorcery.


I am going to use a universal Tboard because I have one handy. If I was given a choice of my "ideal" board I would have something that functioned akin to a viking board.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:39 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Just found this thread. Very interesting project.

Questions:

Do you know of a solenoid similar to the one above that is 9v? What's your power source going to be?

How did you determine the depth to set the solenoid at? Will its height/reach be adjustable? What made you decide not to do a modified sear similar to Flatliner's "Skullcrusher" or "Eddy?"

"Skullcrusher"
http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/o...R/IMG_0357.jpg
http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/o...R/IMG_0635.jpg
http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...llkrusher-quot

"Eddy"
http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/o...g/DSC00991.jpg
http://www.bigevilonline.com/showthr...?t=4822&page=2
http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...80#post2738180
http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...me/page2&pp=30


Thanks.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:55 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Very cool
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:29 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Looks like evolution to me.

How's the rail to body interface up front? Leaving a cocker-esque lip underneath the barrel?
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:08 PM   #27 (permalink)
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There's a slight lip.

Powersource : due to the short/fast operation of the noid it'll just be simple ninevolt's. The battery life will not be spectacular.


As far as other clapper noided mags : I wanted to use what I had laying around. Were I to do it again I'd go about it all differently (mostly not even bothering). Also I would claim skulls with the hatchet foregrip. As awsome as a bayonette would be I feel it would be wasted.

I didn't want to run the air internally purely because I feel its sort of a signature of the auto mag, the side mounted air intake and the big ole loopy macroline. More to the point I felt like it would just be aping some one else's lay out (I appreciate the hypocrisy in that statement) than I was doing my own work. That part has left a very, very unsatisfying feeling through the whole project.

As far as plunger length : trial and error. In all likelihood I am going to turn a new plunger with a set screw in it. I will have to turn something anyway so I'm not too upset.

Now I have to do the grips, a better trigger and some wiring before it's ready to go shoot.

Waiting for my taxes to come in to get a nice little lathe for the house so I don't have to be so sporadic with my machining. Im working plans for a CNC "mill" but good lord is it a lot to think about and it's a huge investment. I doubt I could make the 3k+/-Back in a year.

Pics to come, phones charging.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:25 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Perfectionist bitching:

-The alignment of the halves is out. I am thoroughly displeased. I can/should in the future use dowels + screws on the same home to align and fasten the frame.

-Thread depth on the tapped holes is too short for me to be comfortable. Probably going to drill through the frame for a more thorough thread.

-4-40 for the micro switch is super irritating.

-The trigger pin is irritating. I am going to swap it for a shoulder-screw and bearing assembly.

-While I like the concept of having the inlaid grips I'm still sort of on the fence. Input would be nice

-In light of the fact I wont be storing the electronics up front in the foregrip anymore I was going to go with two shoulder screws and have an adjustable fore grip placement on the body. Over all I am fairly happy with the rail.

-I am unhappy with the post-travel set screw placement on the trigger being hidden and some what annoying to get to. I am going to keep the node for the trigger stop in the design but am going with a more straight forward post-travel. I imagine when I do a single finger trigger I will use the old method. Just as likely that I don't need one as if I have a single finger return speed is irrelevant.



Over all I am disappointed. I will continue through and get some decent pics when I can get something that's not my awful 50$ cellphone
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:53 PM   #29 (permalink)
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How much room will you have for the inlaid grips? The Perente badger special had rear wrap leather grips that were really sharp. If you have enough width room for some kind of plate and the leather this would be a relatively easy grip to make that looks very custom. Pics of what I'm talking about in the link.

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Old 04-03-2013, 05:06 PM   #30 (permalink)
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So I was dicking around with a new project idea and I ran into an older ar15 grip that I will use as a fore grip. Extremely comfortable for how I hold my guns.







The grip pockets themselves are approximately 1/16ths deep. I initially was going to do them in a very fancy cherry/walnut sort of scheme but have since realized its just too intensive and fragile. The leather idea doesnt sound too shabby. My runner up idea was to take a piece of sandpaper and glue it to a set of flat pannels. Bam. Insta-grip.
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