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Old 02-26-2013, 02:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I had problems with my very 1st boxmag using the Halo stock sound activated board so i switched to RF
Ive used Rf sucessfully in 2 boxmags now,I use Virtue OLED(Ion) boards with old Draxxus Pulse hoppers&Rf chips,the OLED board has a pigtail between the solenoid and borad,the Pulse gunside chips also have a matching pigtail.
I also used the Virtue Halo board successfully with the matching RF chip from Virtue
Are the Halo and Ripclip board similar?The main Pulse board is identical in dimensions &interchangeable with exception of a daughter board&manual reverse switch,also has the RF chip installed,maybe you find a few cheap,Ive gotten Pulses for $15
I also have a Halo Virtue board I mentioned above for sale,Id be willing to donate it to the cause for testing if you pay postage ,youre build is awesome and I love boxmags& tanks!please tell me youll be at Lockdowns scenario at Travis AFB in May with this!
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The Magna board is too big to fit into the Rip Clip. It has the same basic function though. I believe the Pulse also has a similar board/operation.

Thanks for the link Biscuit, that RF board kit is what I think I need and that is the cheapest I have seen them. Of course I need to buy 2 more Virtue boards to get the RF capability too.

The part that is frustrating is that on the bench it worked great. Throw it into the turret and it craps out. On the bench I was using the stock barrels, and I think they are louder than the CP barrels.

Sounds like RF is the way to go. Time to break the bank and buy more boards. Does it feed on full auto?

I didn't know that Travis AFB was open again. Is the field still in old base housing? A group of us went down to a couple TAW games there a few years ago. That place was fun.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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it seems to me that you could solder the leads for the RF chip to the pos/neg terms on the stock board solenoid. I seem to recall that is what someone on IOG did. I'd hit up yoda on here with a pm to see if he thinks it would work. If it is it would save buying aftermarket boards.

As far as feeding on full auto....when you get it all put together let me know.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Probably met you at Travis,unfortunately the base housing is gone but theres still an active field there.Team Lockdown will be putting on the next scenario May 25-26,hope you or some of your teammates can make it,i believe camping is available,Stuntman has a thread here
Sent you a contact for someone who has done custom eye wires for me via Pm,hes well know in the scenario world customs,I wont post his name to solicate work for him but he was quick and reliable
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for all of the help. I bought 2 of the Virtue boards already. I can use them to trace where the little RF connector pins go. The SP1 has little divits the solenoid contacts fit into. I could probably solder the RF chip to that. For that matter, I could try and wire the Rip Clip directly to the solenoid contacts....wonder if that would work.

If it is that simple I may cry a little for spending the money on the Virtue boards.....lol. Then again, the Virtue boards are way more adjustable and I can possibly get better efficiency from them.

I will be sending a PM/email to the guy, thanks.

I am not sure I can make it down in May, we have Super Game up here the beginning of May.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:26 AM   #16 (permalink)
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For that matter, I could try and wire the Rip Clip directly to the solenoid contacts....wonder if that would work.
I don't see why that wouldn't work.
The only problem that I could potentially see is if for some reason it takes too much power from the solenoid and cause it not to cycle right. But honestly if I was you I would have already tried to see if it worked
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Personally, I would wire in a second micro switch behind the trigger and have it run, maybe even with a relay but a direct connect to the motor so full auto is continuous running but it can stop when you release the trigger.
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I don't see why that wouldn't work.
The only problem that I could potentially see is if for some reason it takes too much power from the solenoid and cause it not to cycle right. But honestly if I was you I would have already tried to see if it worked
I would have tried it, but didn't think of it. That is why I posted asking for help. The way the soleniod connects to the board through the socket/pin setup would make it hard to solder onto, not much to attach to. I was trying to wire it to the trigger. I think wiring to the solenoid, if possible would work because in theory it would send the required pulse to activate the Rip Clip as the solenoid opens and closes.

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Personally, I would wire in a second micro switch behind the trigger and have it run, maybe even with a relay but a direct connect to the motor so full auto is continuous running but it can stop when you release the trigger.
The Rip Clip motor spins at a crazy speed when hooked directly to power. Taking out the board control would probably make it a blender. Of course the speed could be controlled by dropping the voltage to the motor. I much rather prefer the board to control the speed though.

I invested in the RF parts, I think it will be the cleanest way to get the job done. I may still try to wire it to the solenoid though and see how/if that works.

Thanks again for all of the ideas.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I would have tried it, but didn't think of it. That is why I posted asking for help. The way the soleniod connects to the board through the socket/pin setup would make it hard to solder onto, not much to attach to. I was trying to wire it to the trigger. I think wiring to the solenoid, if possible would work because in theory it would send the required pulse to activate the Rip Clip as the solenoid opens and closes.
What board are you looking at using. I thought that SP1/Vibe boards have the solenoid soldered right to the board. You could make some kind of splitter that plugs into the board then a Y split one to the solenoid one to the ground.
If you want I can make a diagram with ms paint of what I'm talking about.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:58 PM   #20 (permalink)
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What board are you looking at using. I thought that SP1/Vibe boards have the solenoid soldered right to the board. You could make some kind of splitter that plugs into the board then a Y split one to the solenoid one to the ground.
If you want I can make a diagram with ms paint of what I'm talking about.
It is the stock SP1 board. The solenoid and hoses are one assembly that seperates from the board. The solenoid has 2 pins on it that plug into sockets that are on the board. The sockets do stick out the bottom of the board, and that is where the wires would have to be soldered onto since there isn't room between the solenoid assembly and the board once it is installed.

Here is a pic of the Virtue board. A quick search didn't show a pic of the stock board.



The sockets labeled "P3" are where the solenoid pins attach.

Here is what the solenoid assembly looks like:



A diagram would be helpful.

I am thinking if I use the circuit MondoMor made I can attach that to the solenoid sockets and see if it works. The mic only sends a small voltage to activate the Rip Clip. I have to try it for my own curiosity, even though I have the RF stuff on the way.

Here is what the Rip Clip board looks like:



The white wires are for the RF chip. The mic is the round thing with the black top on the lower right.

I missed your comment about the power draw....the Rip Clip has it's own power supply so I don't think it would draw too much power from the solenoid. The solenoid would be wired to where the sound activated mic was and would hopefully provide the pulse that needed to activate it in place of the mic.

Thanks again for the help.
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