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Old 02-27-2013, 11:34 PM   #21 (permalink)
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In my last post I thought that when you said that solenoid was connected to the board with a socket/pin setup I thought that you meant that you set it up to have connectors like on an ego board. So the Y connector/splitter I was talking about is irreverent.

To explain my worry about the power draw... I have no idea what kind of power the board sends to the so let's just say X. So the power X that was meant just for the solenoid now has to be split and send Y amount of power to trip the rip clip. So my worry is that X-Y will not be enough power to trip the solenoid correctly.
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I always just assumed it was magic elves. i mean, it's really the only logical explanation, really.
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:58 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Thank you. I will give that a try and see what happens.

The RF stuff got here today, but the Virtue Halo/Magna kit does not appear to be compatible with the Rip Clip. The Virtue RF kit has 2 wires, while the Rip Clip has 2 wires. 1 wire is hot, 1 wire is ground, but I have no idea what the 3rd wire is for. If I want RF I may have to get the Empire kits for the Rip Clips. I should still be able to use the Virtue chips in the guns though. Unless the hard wiring works.

Also one of the Virtue boards was DOA.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:42 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Well I just tried it out and it does not work at all.

If I move the lead with the diode from the S+ in your diagram too the lower pin (9V) I can get it to rotate, but I have to touch and release it in order for that to work.

At this point I am not sure what I am going to do. The RF appears to not function, 1 of the new SP1 boards is DOA, and I don't want to spend any more money on it. Since I have to ship one board back, I think I will try and send it all back, except for the RF kit I chopped a wire on.

I will then do what packrat suggested and wire the motors to the trigger and add a pot to adjust the speed so it will not blend paint.

Thank you again for the help. My curiosity had been satisfied and I can move on now, lol.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:09 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I am I bit disappointed that it didn't work
I wonder what makes the Tm7 work like this and not the SP1. Tm7 solenoid needs more power to trip it so the rip clip gets more power to trip it???

But ya no problem at all, I had fun
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:32 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I have no idea why it works on the TM7. From what MondoMor had said the TM7 solenoid does not have any power unless the trigger is pulled while other boards always supply power to the solenoid, but I don't know for sure.

Maybe it has something to do with the pulse width of the solenoid activation.
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:50 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I know this is an old thread, but I have an update.

I was having trouble getting both Rip Clips to function at the same time. I tried to use the RF chips, but that didn't fix the problem. I had though that the RF chips being so close together was causing interference with each other.

Then I tried to use an optic transistor and blinking LEDs (the Rip Clips sound activation looks for a pulse). I could get one Rip Clip to work great that way but once I attached the second Rip Clip they got erratic. Then I noticed that the voltage regulator was super hot, which led me to think that the current draw was the problem. I checked the spec on the voltage regulator and it is rated to 1 Amp, so the motors must draw more current than that.
My neighbor told me about some DC-DC converters he found on eBay that are rated at 3 Amps. I ordered some of the converters and wired them in and now the Rip Clips appear to be running great. I am hoping to take them out this weekend and try to run some paint through them.

Thanks again for the help and suggestions.
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Old 06-01-2013, 03:27 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Good to see you made progress,never thought of 2 RF chips interfering with each other
ripclip worked flawlessly for my box,3000+rounds with only 1 minor jam
got some pics?
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:54 PM   #28 (permalink)
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The RF boards are supposed to sync up with the gun board to keep other RF chips from interferring with them. I did that per the Rip Clip instructions. Since it wasn't working I thought that the RF chips were getting in each others' way. At that point I hadn't even thought about the current supply at all. I wasn't able to get them running enough to heat up the regulator until I used the optic transistor and blinking LEDs. That made the Rip Clips rip! It was when I touched the regulator box and noticed it was smoking hot that I realized that a current supply situation was the likely problem. The DC-DC converters run at 81% efficiency (or so claimed) so they shouldn't get too hot.

I was also thinking that I would be having a feeding issue through the copper pipe section from the Rip Clip to the breech. I some some testing on that side and didn't seem to have any issues with the balls not going through the pipe. That is why I was glad to see your box mag with thr Rip Clip able to feed so high since one gun system I have has to feed slightly up to the breech. I had to lower it and move it back to clear the windshield.

I will try and get some pics this weekend.
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