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Old 04-25-2013, 12:22 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by big jim View Post
Glad I made someone's day!
Jim I am trying to get my lovely lady into Paintball. Got her a set up and everything... Her name is Cindy. Tell her how great she is... She loves that stuff.

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Originally Posted by Spider! View Post
What's frustrating is that you can get lucky with a small tub of one third battery acid, two thirds water, and a car battery charger and get a nice anno coat, then make a run with a "highly improved" line and have really bad results.
Well I figured I would do some test runs with 4x4x.5" plates of 6061 has a known surface area of 40 inches. with a known surface area and watch the effects of different volt/amp ratios I can hopefully develop a "visual inspection" system of where Im at. I remember my 07 NXT having off anno. OCD irritated.

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Originally Posted by Paintballer50505 View Post
Please dont anodize in your kitchen/living room/bed room/bathroom.

sulfuric acid and aluminum sulfate are no joke and working with those chemicals around where your food is cooked or where you live is a dangerous idea, the fumes are hazardous as well, it is best to do it somewhere well ventilated with a concrete floor, garages are great, basements are ok, sheds are another option especially for people that live in milder climates.

As you said you are setting up a small chemical plant, checking ph levels and adjusting chemicals is something that needs to be done so its not a one and done situation with the baths.

If you are planning on running with this you will need to know how to get the specific gravity of your baths, especially your ano bath, to get the concentration of chemical in the bath by titration, hydrometer reading, or precisely weighing a portion of the bath, this is needed to determine whether you need to decant the bath or add more chemicals to a particular bath.

How you are planning to deal with the hazardous waste water is another step to think about. A well maintained setup will last a long time if properly cared for but it isnt difficult to contaminate a bath and ruin it. These are not chemicals that can just be dumped down the drain.

I dont mean to scare you, its not crazy difficult, I compare it to maintaining a warm pool once you are up and running but if not maintained the chemicals are not good for you or the environment.
I do not at all intend to do this in my domicile in any way. Cindy would cut me and if anything happend to her or Faxon my son I would forever regret it. I work at Intel in AZ with these exact chems and they are NASTY. People just dont really understand these are life altering substances. I plan to build me a well insulated shed with the proper CFM of supply/exhaust air. Thank you for your extra advice. Other than a counter flow air to water scrubber, is the another HCL abatement system for home use?

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Originally Posted by Spider! View Post
Actually, the bath itself isn't too bad, being ~10%-15% sulfuric acid. Considering the amount of 90% sulfuric drain cleaner that goes down the drain, the bath portion is weak.

The same is true for lye. Incidentally, follow the same "acid to water" strategy for caustics; add concentrated lye slowly to the water.

They both will burn you or your clothes if left to sit.

Dissolved aluminum is not good for you to ingest directly, but there is a lot of it in the environment from all of our other activities. Your local water treatment facility usually determines the best route for light wastes. Industrial scale process is a whole different set of regulations.
Chandler AZ since Intel produces A LOT of waste water for treatment I will be well off.

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Originally Posted by Paintballer50505 View Post
I cant disagree with you about the diluted acid in the bath, but normally I store my supplies by my baths, I also usually measure my chemicals around my equipment as well.

Also in a high traffic area such as a kitchen or living room there is usually more people around, many of whom will not know how these chemicals should be handled. A leaky anodizing bath has a tendency to rot wood, such as the subfloor under the carpet, hardwood, tile, linoleum,the kick-board of cabinets, the molding, sheet-rock doesnt like to get wet either. Wood surfaces should be coated with an acid resistant paint/epoxy based concrete paint if the anodizing baths are setup in a wood structure. Also as you said, do not get the acid on your skin, do not ingest, and I have posted my states regulations on the amount of particulates that can legally be in the air.

All states have different regulations, my state is particularly stringent. They do not want any dumping of these chemicals down the drains at all. Having worked with the Newark Waste Treatment plant I know they do not appreciate these chemicals coming in without a permit, that station being a combined sewer meaning they just dumps the non industrial sewage directly into the water system when it rains because they cant handle the extra flow through.

My state dep considers sulfuric acid a carcinogen
http://nj.gov/health/eoh/rtkweb/documents/fs/1761.pdf

It also considers aluminum sulfate to be a health hazard
http://nj.gov/health/eoh/rtkweb/documents/fs/0068.pdf

Also the nickle based sealers used is considered carcinogenic by the NTP and IARC


It is only my opinion but these are not things I want in my kitchen and the hazards shouldn't be brushed off as minor anyone getting into this should understand the hazards.

Also cyanide is used in pesticides, toilet bowl cleaner, acetone, and other household chemicals. Mixing fumes of sulfuric acid and cyanide has been used in gas chambers. Its not a likely event but it is a deadly mistake.
Yes as said I am keeping everything seperate, My plans for now is to create a temp vent hood out of that 6 mil plastic sheeting seperated the different baths into each its own compartment with supply coming off a plenum. Exhaust can be done but its a lil trickier do to the fact that mixing exhaust streams is bad... I know I am going over board BUT Intel over engineers everything... Thats why I like working here. I have a natural tendency to do the same.

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Originally Posted by Spider! View Post
I guess I never considered the kitchen a real alternative. Even if you live alone, it's a big mess aside from the hazards. I just use distilled water for sealer. You do have to watch the stuff you get in the kits.
Stouffers Stove top Anno... See whats cooking at Stouffers

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Originally Posted by TFrevold View Post
I do mine in a well ventilated area. my acid tanks/lye/sealer tanks are in a shed next to my house I do all my dying in the basement.
AZ no basements
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:46 PM   #32 (permalink)
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AZ no basements
You have rocks, we have mud and water.

Speaking of hazards and ventilation, I have a thread on here about using a bath agitator made from a paint stirrer. I've only used it a few times, but it has been much nicer in finish and vapor/mist emissions than an aquarium type bubbler setup. If you are not going for the Little Giant chem pump, the little-stick agitator works well.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:13 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Also the nickle based sealers used is considered carcinogenic by the NTP and IARC
NOW does the sealing process make the nickel inert or is the nickel still active? My lady has a high allergen to nickel BUT playing paintball doesn't seem to affect her. Is there a high allergen potential from nickel sealants OR is it med or low?
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:36 PM   #34 (permalink)
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NOW does the sealing process make the nickel inert or is the nickel still active? My lady has a high allergen to nickel BUT playing paintball doesn't seem to affect her. Is there a high allergen potential from nickel sealants OR is it med or low?
Check the caswell forum, but I don't think the nickel acetate binds. I think its more of a catalyst for the crystal formation. You don't use a lot, and actually don't have to use it at all.
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