|Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here!|
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|04-02-2013, 07:39 PM||#61 (permalink)|
Slowly making progress
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Vail, AZ
STL files are nice for importing to computer programs that run CNC equipment (mills, printers,...) because they are just raw geometry without any of the parametric intelligence that most 3d programs use to make that geometry. So, the file sizes are smaller and easier to process.
The downside to that is that they don't have any parametric modification capability when you bring them back into a 3d modeling program. But, S_S only really needs two parts of the scanned info. He needs the geometry where the top goes onto the body, and the geometry where the lid goes on. Aside from that, anything that forms the shape of the top is up to him to design.
|04-02-2013, 07:58 PM||#62 (permalink)|
The Man With No Plan
redo my CMM Points on multiple files (for multiple layers)
layer 1, the OD of the shell rim
layer 2, the face of the shell rim
layer 3, the existing mount holes (it'd be sweet to be able to use existing color kits/lids)
layer 4, the existing ID geometry (the arcs)
then put it in CAD, add all 4 layers on top of each other, then adjust layer 4 to be flatter, add layer 3 to the new layer 4 and BOOM done!
sadly.... this is LOWWWWWWWWWW priority compared to the 20 customer orders at the shop right now, and supergame in a month.
but if i get some free time, i will have my rotor sitting next to the CMM for some easy access and quick work
|04-02-2013, 09:01 PM||#63 (permalink)|
Five four three two one
Join Date: Mar 2008
FYI - this was only one of the formats you could export files in. They are natively .obj I believe.
|04-02-2013, 09:46 PM||#64 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2011
Meh, like I said, I'm not very good with CAD. What I said is what I've interpretted from reading and not through vast experience. All I meant to say was exactly what desertT1 said. But, the only reason I knew the existence of that thread was because I had a lot of difficulty trying to modify .STL files in a useful way. I could move meshes around or build new objects around them, but I couldn't figure out a way to simply change diameters of holes, or change filet radius dimensions, or to add slots or other features to it. I have modified one .STL successfully, but it wasn't modified much and I only added onto it, I couldn't even figure out a way to take anything off of it (extrude holes or anything of that sort). I'm not familiar with a .obj file.
|04-03-2013, 01:14 AM||#65 (permalink)|
I can 3d scan to 95%+ accuracy using lasers and modify it to lower profile keeping the base and lid area the same.
|06-21-2013, 12:13 PM||#67 (permalink)|
How about this approach?
It is not my intention to hijack this thread. If you feel I invade your thread with irrelevant stuff, delete my post.
However, I thought this thread might be a good place to post this, as my idea is about trying to do basicly the
same thing in a slightly different way.
Many have made small motorized hoppers from scratch in the past and some of the more recent versions have
been using 3D printed new shells for existing internals. Like this one by Simon of Inception Designs. While I like what he
has done, I still don't use a hundred paintballs in a single game. Most of the time not even 50, so I wanted
something smaller, and came up with this: Trying to merge an old 45rnd ammobox with the guts from a Reloader B.
(I can't image-post a photo hosted at my FB account directly on the forum, so this link will have to do for now.)
It is just an idea still. No shell made yet. But the basic idea is to make a shell that will have holders and mounts
for parts taken from a Reloder B. If it works out as I want the only new parts will be the two halves of the new
shell and screws to hold it together. The next step IF it works, will be to make it more streamlined with a cover
for the gearbox and a battery door.
|06-22-2013, 01:49 AM||#68 (permalink)|
that is similar to one version I built but it was very heavy and didn't feel right. My newest version i am working on printing cuts the weight in half and balances properly. But your real close to what I'm doing with that idea.
|06-22-2013, 03:33 AM||#69 (permalink)|
Maybe if we took the best parts from our ideas and combined them into something new.
The way I thought was to try to incorporate most if not all needed features into the two shell halves, so one would only need to print two parts. Maybe four parts if one wants a battery door and a gearbox cover (as I put the naked gears on the outside of the shell). I was hoping to get something that could re-use as much as possible from the gutted Reloader B to cut down material costs.
I have been using Butler Creek scope covers as hinged lids for my 45rnd hoppers as they are more or less a perfect fit on the OD of the opening at the top of the hopper. If I am printing a new shell I might aswell design in a native hinged lid to avoid having to buy a lid.
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