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Vitalsilence 03-24-2013 11:09 PM

Mech Spimmy
 
So I ve been wanting to turn this rebel I have into a spimmie I have the body all milled. I m looking into a ram and sleeve thinking about a grip frame and board and all that comes with a Spimmy. I picked up a vice in a trade so my desire is subdued, but Then it hit me would it not be possible to make a mech Spimmy. And my thought was to use the smav-3 used in the mech ion kit to actuate the ram but I m not sure that that valve would be appropriate. I m thinking I would need a 4-way. Am I correct in this thinking. Also would it not be useful to use an anti-chop bolt out of an old Spyder so I don t have to use eyes. Lmk what your guys thoughts are. I m going to build it over the next year one way or another but I would like your guys imput.

plan_9 03-24-2013 11:38 PM

i was thinking of mech'ing a timmy basket case i have here..same theory..help us oh wise ones

Vitalsilence 03-25-2013 12:26 AM

I have this on the nation too, but I have an idea and I need thoughts on it. So I'm going to copy and paste......



What about a third hole that would be infront of the rear hole add an o ring groove and have double o ring tailed ram so when the ram reached the forward position it would close the chamber kinda like the double oring on an ion bolt.

If you did this then could you just remachine the ram and move the rear o ring forward and tie the back inlet hole into the front so that when it reached the forward position it would cycle the the air back to the front pushing the ram back, almost like a hall effect you would half to install a check valve so the air would only flow from back to front but does that make sense? I think I may have to draw that up but does anyone see what I getting at.... Three holes in the sleeve, the stock front and rear and a third in a measured position in the middle, the cycling would be the front and middle holes.a three oring ram when at rest the middle oring just infront of the middle hole and the rear oring infront of the rear hole, and when the ram is in the forward position the rear oring would be just in front of the middle hole. Tie in the back hole into the front with a check valve so air only goes one way effectively recirculate the Air in the ram to the front and begining the return process

Vitalsilence 03-25-2013 12:28 AM

Otherwise I m back to a much needed pulse valve

Nobody 03-26-2013 06:19 PM

i saw this post on PBN, but didn't reply.

what i want to know IS: you are taking an electronic gun that started life as a mech(the BL Millennium) that the BL parts can drop right in and take it back to mech? why not just throw spyder parts in it? maybe its me, but you are creating a Rube Goldberg here. i can see if you are wanting to go pneumatic(which you are, with the parts out of the ion mech kit), but to go totally mech, i just don't get it. mechanical would mean using a sear, hammer, springs in order to open the valve.

so if you could do some more explaining, just for clarification/edification.

Vitalsilence 03-26-2013 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nobody (Post 2665859)
i saw this post on PBN, but didn't reply.

what i want to know IS: you are taking an electronic gun that started life as a mech(the BL Millennium) that the BL parts can drop right in and take it back to mech? why not just throw spyder parts in it? maybe its me, but you are creating a Rube Goldberg here. i can see if you are wanting to go pneumatic(which you are, with the parts out of the ion mech kit), but to go totally mech, i just don't get it. mechanical would mean using a sear, hammer, springs in order to open the valve.

so if you could do some more explaining, just for clarification/edification.

A ram at low pressure would be much smoother and less kicky then the sear hammer and spring

Vitalsilence 03-26-2013 07:19 PM

Also to take any Timmy and make it a mech.

super_stanchy 03-26-2013 07:24 PM

me and tom (plan_9) were talkin about this a few days ago

i thought a smav3 way and an ion/bl hybrid ram

but thats as far as i ever got with it

y0da900 03-26-2013 10:30 PM

ALTERNATIVE 1:
  1. Run a constant LPR feed to front ram port
  2. Cycle rear ram port with the normally closed output of a 3-way valve (SMAV-3 or MSV will work).
  3. Enjoy

Essentially turns it into a FASOR using an air spring. I've done it with my Etek before. Bolt does not return until you let go of the trigger, and you can short stroke it, but provided you give the trigger a full pull your velocity can be surprisingly consistent, and the force from an LPR on the ram is incapable of holding the poppet open..

ALTERNATIVE 2:
  1. Feed constant LPR supply to rear ram port
  2. Use normally open output of a 3-way valve using full pressure air to front ram port.
  3. Enjoy

Provided you can get the pressure balance working within the operating range of your 3-way, it should cycle like a blow forward. Same caveats as alternative 1.

Vitalsilence 03-26-2013 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by y0da900 (Post 2666137)
ALTERNATIVE 1:
  1. Run a constant LPR feed to front ram port
  2. Cycle rear ram port with the normally closed output of a 3-way valve (SMAV-3 or MSV will work).
  3. Enjoy

Essentially turns it into a FASOR using an air spring. I've done it with my Etek before. Bolt does not return until you let go of the trigger, and you can short stroke it, but provided you give the trigger a full pull your velocity can be surprisingly consistent, and the force from an LPR on the ram is incapable of holding the poppet open..

ALTERNATIVE 2:
  1. Feed constant LPR supply to rear ram port
  2. Use normally open output of a 3-way valve using full pressure air to front ram port.
  3. Enjoy

Provided you can get the pressure balance working within the operating range of your 3-way, it should cycle like a blow forward. Same caveats as alternative 1.

I think alternative 2 would probably work better. ..... Have you tried it both ways? Wouldn't using hp to run one side make it kick pretty good? Would it be possible to run two lpr one on the front and one in the grip, and have one set higher then the other?


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