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Old 06-24-2013, 07:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Red... your note about the ferrous material is spot on. It's kind of cool what the process did to the connecting screw I was using but I'm sure this contributed to the uneven results I got.



Before I do any more testing, I'm going to work on properly stripping the bodies and obtain some aluminium wire for connecting to the parts.



A few notes about this image. The body on the top is the one that I've been using for the cathode in this project. When I first started using it there was a fair amount of colour left on it. After processing two pieces, all the colour is gone and it has a good finish. I think it's worth investigating the use of a part as a cathode as part of the prep process.

It's this prep process that I believe to be my biggest hurdle. All of the parts I'm using are from beat up old markers. Before I do any more anno attempts, I will test a few different finishing steps after stripping the old colour. Kind of wish that I had a compressor and a sand blaster and the space to use a sand blaster... but if wishes were fishes we'd walk on the sea.

This week is filled with activity so it will be next Sunday at the earliest before I get a chance to do any more testing. Stay tuned.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I love build threads that are progressive. Subscribed.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redlaser666 View Post
Lastly, as mentioned before do not let any ferrous material be in the ano bath as you noticed it will disolve and contaminate your bath.
There is a lot to that. If you (ToyBox) understand why that statement is true, you will know a lot more about ano. If you go to the Caswell plating website and get their manual for LCD anodizing, it covers a lot of theories and tips.

In short, stainless, titanium and aluminum are the main (only) metals welcome in the bath. Stainless is only good if it is not in the electric current path (like mounting hardware for cathode standoffs). You will find an ongoing discussion (like pie vs cake) on aluminum vs. lead cathodes. One thing about aluminum cathodes is that it is best to take them out of the bath when not in use. There is also some aspects to anodizing different alloys of aluminum with certain alloys of aluminum cathodes. Agitation is a wonderful thing.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:29 AM   #14 (permalink)
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There is a lot to that. If you (ToyBox) understand why that statement is true, you will know a lot more about ano. If you go to the Caswell plating website and get their manual for LCD anodizing, it covers a lot of theories and tips.

In short, stainless, titanium and aluminum are the main (only) metals welcome in the bath. Stainless is only good if it is not in the electric current path (like mounting hardware for cathode standoffs). You will find an ongoing discussion (like pie vs cake) on aluminum vs. lead cathodes. One thing about aluminum cathodes is that it is best to take them out of the bath when not in use. There is also some aspects to anodizing different alloys of aluminum with certain alloys of aluminum cathodes. Agitation is a wonderful thing.
LCD Anodizing Instructions - Powered by Kayako Fusion Help Desk Software

I presume?
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:39 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yes indeed, thanks.

The pdf that is linked in there is a very good start.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I'm really happy that I decided to post my progress in here. The commentary coming back from everyone has been extremely helpful.

I've also been thinking a lot about prepping the surface. That's when I remembered that I have an old tumbler tucked away in my box of toys. Even better is that the Spyder bodies both fit inside the tumbler.

This thinking lead me to a really cool thread about using a tumbler to prep the surface of aluminium. Now I just need to source the materials for the polishing. Based on what I've learned there I will be able to do both matte and polished surfaces if I get everything to work right.

BTW... I do my projects a lot like I play paintball. I look at things to get an idea of what's going on and dive in headfirst. From there I adjust based on what I learned after the initial dive and continue adjusting. Most importantly, I always make sure to have fun.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I've gotten tumbler media on ebay before - but the seller was eastwood anyways, so their site might be a good starting point. Regular media (the green or brown pyramid media on their site) will give you a matte type finish - for an actual polish you will need to use media (typically walnut shell) and a rouge.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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mostly saying this to subscribe.
I have heard that the sonic cleaners you can get for cleaning guns will strip anno off of aluminum. Just use the gun cleaner solution put it in there turn it on and bam no more anno. The nice thing is you just have to use warm water and soap to clean off the solution. You might get better results doing that instead of oven cleaner. Just a thought though.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:16 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Another alternative to home stripping is Greased Lightning degreaser. Supposedly it doesn't cause pitting like lye(oven cleaner) does.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:48 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I've found places online that I can order tumbler media from but the shipping is more than I want to pay. There are a few places in my area that may carry it but my schedule is super busy for the next week so I will have to wait until next week to check them out.

I'm going to stay away from the oven cleaner in the future. While it is cheap and easy to get, it just proves that cheap and easy isn't always the way to go.
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