Delrin work

Madmox · 10-13-2007, 02:02 AM

Hey everyone i have a quick question about working with Delrin. What is the trick to keep it from getting hot and melting as i am drilling it or cutting it on the lathe. Is there a particular lubricant i should use to keep it cutting cleanly?

Madmox

Altec · 10-13-2007, 02:42 AM

I always just cut fast, and make sure I keep shavings cleared.

joelrf600r · 10-13-2007, 03:12 AM

Delrin can be cut dry, the only thing i sometimes do is blast a little air on it to keep small stringy chips/tailings/swarf from coming around and getting in the cut path again.

If you are seeing burnishing and "melting" on Delrin,you're almost definitely having a tool geometry issue where it's either completely worn out to blunt, or it's not set to catch the cutting edge correctly.

--Joel

Cockerpunk · 10-13-2007, 03:32 AM

tonight we were cutting at about 350ish RPM, manual feed, but still slow. with plastics you gotta go slower, cause they deform alot more over smaller temp difference.

think of it this way, to cut whatever it is your cutting, you bascially use about the same amount of energy as if you wanted to melt it off. so, iuf you run plastics at to high a speed, you gonna put so much enery into the part, that it melts. so its a fine line, going as fast as you can to keep the surface finnish good, but slow enough to keep the part in spec.

kidneythief · 10-13-2007, 04:39 AM

You definatly shouldnt be melting it. Delrin has a melting point of around 350 degrees. If you are having problems with melting or deforming chances are you are pushing the part to fast. Either taking to much off in a pass or feeding to hard. When machining soft materials(ones prone to melting) you should be taking lighter cuts, spinning at a lower RPM and feeding slower. Also, you may need to make sure that your tooling is sharp...if not chances are that your rubbing instead of cutting.

-Jake

noxx55 · 10-13-2007, 01:46 PM

I don't know enough about machining to make an intelligent comment, but I will say that even as a beginner, I have yet to melt delrin with any of my tooling although it did get a little warm while boring it out.

Deus Machina · 10-15-2007, 03:10 AM

Not delrin, but my experience with nylatron may click over.

Use a sharp, deeply relieved bit--meaning the top will point up toward the piece, instead of right at the center of it. *Low* RPM, but relatively deep, fast cuts. I would go with lighter cuts in a softer material like delrin, and feed a little slower until you know what it likes.

Madmox · 10-15-2007, 05:49 AM

Thanks Everyone i'll take a pass at it and see what happens

Madmox

Phantom Power · 10-15-2007, 12:45 PM

I always find that for turning plastics I get better results with my own ground HSS bits (razor sharp, lots of relief) than with any carbide insert bits.

Jesterbuilt · 10-15-2007, 12:47 PM

I would agree. I have gotten better results with plastics using HSS. For some reason it has given me cleaner cuts.

10-13-2007, 02:02 AM	#1 (permalink)
Madmox Douchbaggery specialist Join Date: May 2007 Location: Far northern california	Delrin work Hey everyone i have a quick question about working with Delrin. What is the trick to keep it from getting hot and melting as i am drilling it or cutting it on the lathe. Is there a particular lubricant i should use to keep it cutting cleanly? Madmox __________________ www.pumpplayers.org at least its RIP here. Feedback http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html

10-13-2007, 02:42 AM	#2 (permalink)
Altec Alternator Customs Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: SoCo, Maryland	I always just cut fast, and make sure I keep shavings cleared. __________________ Alternator Custom Shop Delrin Barrel Loudeners (Any Barrel Size!) Coming Soon- Sheridan "Insta-Pierce" assemblies (PM for Details) BEO Mafia

10-13-2007, 03:12 AM	#3 (permalink)
joelrf600r Active Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Pleasant Hill, CA	Delrin can be cut dry, the only thing i sometimes do is blast a little air on it to keep small stringy chips/tailings/swarf from coming around and getting in the cut path again. If you are seeing burnishing and "melting" on Delrin,you're almost definitely having a tool geometry issue where it's either completely worn out to blunt, or it's not set to catch the cutting edge correctly. --Joel __________________ My MCB Feedback: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html

10-13-2007, 04:39 AM	#5 (permalink)
kidneythief Lord humungus the Mod Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Spokane, WA	You definatly shouldnt be melting it. Delrin has a melting point of around 350 degrees. If you are having problems with melting or deforming chances are you are pushing the part to fast. Either taking to much off in a pass or feeding to hard. When machining soft materials(ones prone to melting) you should be taking lighter cuts, spinning at a lower RPM and feeding slower. Also, you may need to make sure that your tooling is sharp...if not chances are that your rubbing instead of cutting. -Jake __________________ "I wish simply to be a decent person, yet I will always fear the retards" -Brian Hindt(geech) MCB Moderator Kidney Machine

10-13-2007, 01:46 PM	#6 (permalink)
noxx55 Working on it!!! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Meridian, Idaho	I don't know enough about machining to make an intelligent comment, but I will say that even as a beginner, I have yet to melt delrin with any of my tooling although it did get a little warm while boring it out. __________________ Wading through a mess, But I am moving forward...

10-13-2007, 03:32 AM	#4 (permalink)
Cockerpunk Banned Join Date: Jul 2006	tonight we were cutting at about 350ish RPM, manual feed, but still slow. with plastics you gotta go slower, cause they deform alot more over smaller temp difference. think of it this way, to cut whatever it is your cutting, you bascially use about the same amount of energy as if you wanted to melt it off. so, iuf you run plastics at to high a speed, you gonna put so much enery into the part, that it melts. so its a fine line, going as fast as you can to keep the surface finnish good, but slow enough to keep the part in spec.

10-15-2007, 05:49 AM	#8 (permalink)
Madmox Douchbaggery specialist Join Date: May 2007 Location: Far northern california	Thanks Everyone i'll take a pass at it and see what happens Madmox __________________ www.pumpplayers.org at least its RIP here. Feedback http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html

10-15-2007, 12:45 PM	#9 (permalink)
Phantom Power Ghost with the most Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pender Island, BC	I always find that for turning plastics I get better results with my own ground HSS bits (razor sharp, lots of relief) than with any carbide insert bits.

10-15-2007, 12:47 PM	#10 (permalink)
Jesterbuilt WGP whore Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Everett, WA.	I would agree. I have gotten better results with plastics using HSS. For some reason it has given me cleaner cuts. __________________ Boy, the next words out of your mouth better be some brilliant Mark Twain S**t. Cuz it's definately gettin chisled on your tombstone. Had it been a blind body and not blue I would of jumped on it like an eithiopian on a steak dinner. My Ex-Wife is ungrateful She Never Used the Wedding present I bought her......A COFFIN http://www.myspace.com/baconfiend http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...ht=jesterbuilt

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