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|05-20-2014, 02:36 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2006
Pnuecocker Step-by-step Build FAQ Finally
I know this is 3 years overdue but we had our Canadian Long weekend so I finally made some time to write up my pneucocker build thread for you guys who had been asking. Here is the step-by-step write-up for my First Pneucocker 1
Thanks for your patience.
I have not written up a FAQ for the Second Pneucocker
But I have a short write-up for Version 3 of Pneucocker
• Needle nose pliers
• Philips precision driver
• Center Punch
• Hand Tap 6-40
• Drill bits
• Allen Keys
• Hand file
• Dremel tool
• Bench Vise
• Drill press
• Adjustable wrenches
• WGP Trilogy Select Fire Grip Frame
• 1/8" Stainless rod
• Aluminum plate
• LP hose
• LPR Hose barb 10-32 x2
• 6-32 socket head screw x2
• 6-32 fiber lock nut x2
Disassembly of the Grip frame
Remove the grip panels and unplug the 3 wiring connectors from the board
(Switch, Eyes, Solenoid)
With a Philips driver Unscrew the following
• 3 mounting screws from the board (54-401 2mm, Length 8mm) Ping me if you lost them
• 2 screws holding the Solenoid micro switch
• 2 mounting screws from both sides of the Ram-solenoid assembly
1. Wiggle out the board then the Ram-Solenoid should slide down
EDIT: You can get away with just knocking out ONE pin ->the front Trigger pin.
Back out the front trigger stop set screw and then wiggle out the trigger. You can skip steps 3 & 4. Make sure you clean/clear out any metal shavings.
2. Take a Centre punch knockout the 2 splined-friction pins holding the Trigger and 3-way plate
3. Before Knocking out the splined pin holding the Sear, Loosen the set screw holding the 3rd pin
4. Remove the trigger internals and put them aside
5. Separate the Ram-solenoid assembly
6. Extract the Delrin piston (white) from the Ram by “Blowing” Air into the bottom of the Barb/hose.
7. Carefully unscrew the bottom Barb from the Ram and put it aside. HEAT the barb first to soften the Locktite or it will snap!
Preparing the Mini Ram
1. Using a No. 31 bit, open up the lower bottom hole on the mini Ram Body.* Do Not Drill all the way through.
2. Using a 6-40 UNF Tap the hole. Debur and Clean out the Ram.
3. Reinstall the Barb into the new hole with a blue locktite. A drop of oil on Delrin piston and re-mate it with the Ram
Preparing the Grip Frame
1. Drill the hole in the frame for the trigger pin
2. Align the drill bit No. 31 (or 9/64”) to drill through the trigger guard (59.9mm) from the top & 6.5 mm from the bottom edge of the back slot.
3. Center punch the marks and drill through the trigger guard first.
4. Pre-drill the back hole providing the proper drill alignment & drill all the way through from the trigger guard.
1. Cut & shape a small piece of Plexiglass (or plastic or wood) to fill the back slot in the grip frame
Dimensions: 10.1mm x 20mm 6.2mm thick
2. Fit the piece in the slot of the trigger frame and mark & drill (No 48) 2 holes for the mounting screws (which held the solenoid).
1. Place the Grip frame over the Aluminium plate and trace the profile of the opening. Cut the plate and test for fit.
2. Cut a slot in the leading edge of the plate so to allow space to slide in the Ram and to prevent interference & rub with the swing arm of MSV2
3. Mark and drill the holes for 2 screws (top & bottom) and mount the plate.
Cut a 1/8”DIA Stainless rod to 23mm long
1. Reinstall and lube all the trigger internals
2. Reinstall the Ram with the 2 mounting screws on each side
3. Insert the trigger pin in the hole from the inside of frame
Test the the MSV2
1. Install Marcroline from the Ram Barb to the OUT port of the MSV2 (Right hole)
2. Connect a external LPR to an air source and run a Macroline from the LPR to the MSV “IN” port
3. Pressurize the LPR and cycle the MSV. Do NOT exceed 70psi or you'll be blowing the lines.
Alignment of the MSV2
1. Place the MSV inside the frame aligning the swing arm making contact the trigger pin & trigger.
2. Hold the MSV against the plate and align it so that there is no space between the swing arm-pin-trigger.
* If the edge of swing arm rubs against the mounting plate you can shim up the MSV2 with a thin square cardboard.
3. Adjust the MSV positioning while drying firing to ensure that it cycles freely. You may need to adjust the trigger stop setscrew behind the trigger.
4. When the Trigger held back the MSV may vent. This is normal. Though on one build my MSV doesn’t vent <?>
5. Mark the MSV mounting holes on the plate and drill with a 5/32” (No. 19).
Mount the MSV2
1. Depressurize and remove the LPR Input line.
2. Mount the MSV with two 6-32 screws and fibre lock nuts.
3. Install the grip frame on to the main body.
4. Run a Tee fitting off the 3-way. This line goes to the MSV2 "IN" port. Zip tie the lines.
Optional: I ran the back line through the front block. You can do this by drilling and tapping two 6-40 barbs on either side of the front block
Finally Pressurize the gun and Time it <-- Fun part!
It's Not the Answer that Enlightens but the Question
Pneucocker Step-by-Step Build
Last edited by Badger; 01-16-2015 at 05:07 PM.
|05-20-2014, 07:53 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Bow before the man Velcor has blessed us with. Bards will tell of his pneucocker tale for eons to come.
Thanks so much for this
|05-20-2014, 10:00 PM||#3 (permalink)|
You can also do the miniram another way if you are lacking in the tap department. Take the ram apart, and look down the tube to the bottom. You can drill down the tube with a drill bit or dremel straight down into the base. Aim directly above the where the barb normally sits. The walls at the bottom of the ram directing the air are very thin, and easy to punch through. Go slowly, and stop when you punch through the wall. You can then use jbweld (yeah, the anti-christ, I know) to plug the holes on the side of the ram, or use it to attach a thin piece of aluminum. Either way will work. The air pressure will vent out the hole at the top of the ram when it's in use, so you really don't have to worry too much about blowing anything out.
Is it as clean? Absolutely not. It's it really easy and effective? Yep.
Need a Centerflag Uprising manual? PM me.
|05-22-2014, 09:52 AM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2014
Did you ever find a replacement for the mini ram that comes with the trilogy frame? It's the only part I'm missing before I can attempt this! If anyone is willing to part their mini ram please pm me.
I was thinking something along the lines of this would work...Clippard SM-6
Anyone have any thoughts?
Last edited by pdobrove; 05-22-2014 at 11:03 AM.
|05-22-2014, 03:07 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2006
I Do have the SM-6 Mini Ram but it will not fit inside the Slot. The O.D. of the Brass body is too fat.
Trimming the Ram will ruin the crimped seal at top. Widening the grip frame Slot is an option but walls are thin and you might destroy the frame.
I thought of two options:
Mount the SM6 in the back and upside-down connecting it to pivot arm that kicks the Rocker plate. But this will make things tight for the MSV2.
Mount the SM6 along the Outside the frame. The Ram connects to the Rocker plate hole (shared by the 3-way rod). Not as clean and exposed hoses
|05-22-2014, 07:50 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2006
On second inspection there is enough meat to widen the frame as long as I stay clear of the Hose Channel. The Ram will hit the rocker plate at an angle instead of perpendicular.
... looking for a local machinist.
|05-23-2014, 01:24 PM||#8 (permalink)|
.....Pneucocker Ver ]I[ here we come
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