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Old 06-03-2014, 05:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I bet you could do most of it with a sharpie and a grinder, to a new piece of steel. The other lightening holes don't have to be perfect, but the pin's hole should be done with a precision tool. That and the groove that the sear uses to catch the bolt.
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Looking at that failure point, do those "speed holes" even need to be there?

But I vote for the "DIY with scrap steel and a Dremel" option. If the pin is really stuck in there and won't spin, you could put the hammer between some wood blocks in a vice and drill it out with a steady hand (and drill through for future ease of removal), although you'll need to find a replacement roll pin afterward. If it's not in there tight, maybe some WD-40 and a drill bit small enough to jam up inside the pin can be used to draw it out?

Then, drill your pin hole in the scrap steel plate first to ensure a straight clean hole, line up the pieces and scribe the outside shape, and hacksaw/Dremel/file it out? I've done similar on smaller pieces before, but I am ambitious and cheap.
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here's at least one way around a blind pin. Use a drill press and run a very small bit through the middle of the pin, through the other side. Then flip it over and use that as a pilot hole to drill the pin size hole down to the pin. Then you can always come back and drive out the pin, as long as your part doesn't care about the extended hole, of course.

It's not a little allen screw, right?

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Can you measure the width of the sear material? I'm thinking some hardening flat stock, and the cheap question will be if someone has some on hand. Also, some dimensions might tell you if you can use another nelson sear. Maybe there's an ATS compatibility thread somewhere.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It's not a screw, it looks almost like a tiny clock spring:

Here is a comparison with a phantom sear. They are different enough to not be interchangeable:
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Looking at that failure point, do those "speed holes" even need to be there?
If the part lasted well over a couple hundred cases of paint, I wouldnt change anything with the design. Making changes to the weight could cause something not to engage quite right. That being said, if in your opinion it failed "prematurely," I might make the hole where the crack went into slightly smaller. Just my opinion.

Although if your paying someone to make a one, Id ask for a couple spares as the second and third ones wont cost nearly as much now as they will when the part breaks again.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It's not a screw, it looks almost like a tiny clock spring:http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65...603_184759.jpg

Here is a comparison with a phantom sear. They are different enough to not be interchangeable:http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65...603_185208.jpg
The ATS looks a bit longer, but only because of the flat on the back-bottom. I would take some calipers to it and see how close it is. It looks like a little file work could convert that phantom sear (if necessary at all).

Does the sear in the ATS have any function with the magazine or any other levers? If it did, then you would probably have to lean on a new one instead of a re-tasked nelson sear.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:22 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The foot (or whatever the part that interacts with the trigger is called) of the ATS is also taller. I'd be afraid that the ATS trigger would not engage a Phantom sear properly. I think I'm going to try and get the pin out and maybe hand make one with a file and a dremmel. And/Or, if Gumby becomes available, I'll buy a spare.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:33 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It's not a screw, it looks almost like a tiny clock spring
Looks like a tiny coil pin, but if you can't save it, I don't see why any other roll pin / spring pin / straight pin with a little swell at one end wouldn't work as a replacement.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The foot (or whatever the part that interacts with the trigger is called) of the ATS is also taller. I'd be afraid that the ATS trigger would not engage a Phantom sear properly. I think I'm going to try and get the pin out and maybe hand make one with a file and a dremmel. And/Or, if Gumby becomes available, I'll buy a spare.
Some regular steel stock might work, but I would get some oil hardening stock from Grainger. Depending on your tools, you might drill the pin hole first, and cut the sear from around it.
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Old 06-07-2014, 04:56 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Bacci Paintball - Vintage Pump Marker Parts, Gear and Memorabilia

They have hammers with sears and sears alone. I would look for an old razorback sear.

Prices are fair nice selection of parts.

How about a pic of the other side where the roll pin would be if it went through. If you need someone to drill out the old pin PM me.
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