|Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here!|
| ||Thread Tools||Search this Thread|
|08-14-2006, 11:45 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Wakka wakka wakka
Build-off Spyder Project
My Spyder for the Spyder Build-Off arrived in the mail today. A good friend from chat sent it to me for the cost of postage. He also sent along a bunch of spare parts and other goodies.
The gun is a bone stock Spyder Victor, and since having never owned a Spyder before the first thing I did was break it down and check out the guts.
To start with, I broke the entire gun down, and mixed up some drain cleaner of doom to strip the blue ano off the parts. I must say, the Victor might be a cheapo gun, but the anodizing quality is very nice. It took a couple good soaks and scrubs to get down to the bare metal.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77636360@N00/215612161/ - The Spyder reciever takes a bath.
One part that I immediately decided to replace was the end cap/velocity adjuster. The stock part was made of chromed steel, very heavy and bulky. Seemed totally unnecessary to me, and I already knew I planned to chop off the back end of the top tube of the reciever, so I didnt need the little pretty end cap.
I decided to cut an aluminum replacement. I extended the end cap out to .75" to leave room for some decorative grooves. Im a big fan of "air cooled engine" grooves on cylindrical parts, just looks nice, and very easy to cut. I also decided to get rid of any metric threading or other silliness on any parts I remade, so I replaced the velocity screw with a 1/4-20 bolt.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77636360@N00/215612162/ - The stock end cap next to mine.
After the reciever, bottomline adapter, and feedneck were done with ano stripping, I pulled them out of the crud and gave them the steel wool treatment. They turned out rather nice, I didnt bother with a total polishing job yet, since Im still not sure on my overall plan for the reciever.
I did know I planned on removing most of the back of the top tube, but after a bit of thinking I decided to extend the bolt/hammer linkage pin and go with a top cocking setup. I decided to leave a bit of the top tube overhanging to hold the cocking rod in place, so I planned my cuts.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77636360@N00/215612163/ - The reciever with cut markings. Viva la sharpie!
A quick lick with the bandsaw, and finishing with files, and the reciever looked good. I tried to continue the bevels from the Victors little cocking cutout all the way to the rear of the body. I also curved the top tube edge into a half circle, then clamped it in the mill for the cocking rod slot.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77636360@N00/215612164/ - Checking the centering of the cocking slot with the stock bolt.
I was pretty satisfied with the body for now, so I turned my attentions to the bolt. The stock bolt is a giant lump of metal, very inelegant. I decided to cut a replacement out of black delrin rod and an aluminum center piece. Pretty much a slightly different version of my cocker bolts.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77636360@N00/215612167/ - Turning the front half of the bolt.
Unfortunately I screwed the pooch on the bolt rear segment, I managed to drill the bolt/hammer linkage hole just a hair off, and the rod couldnt fit in the slot correctly. I hate re-doing parts, so I left the bolt as it was, and decided to finish it tommorow.
I reassembled the gun as it is now just to see the overall progress. Im still not sure what to do with any cosmetic milling on the body.
Total cost: $0, no parts bought yet.
Things still to do:
Finish the new bolt.
Cut a replacement front block thing.
Track down a cheap minicocker vertical adapter.
Track down a new gripframe to replace the gag-o-riffic plastic stock frame.
|08-15-2006, 09:49 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Wakka wakka wakka
I got to work on the half completed bolt first. One thing I had planned for it was to use a spare spring plunger gadget as a detent inside the bolt to hold the bolt pin in place. So I figured I would pull out all the tricks...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77636360@N00/216440633/ - Custom bolt
The bolt pin has 2 curved grooves in it for the detent for 2 positions. Engaged with the hammer or not. When the pin is pulled out to the release position it can be stripped out the back of the reciever seperately.
I started work on the reciever milling. Ive never been a big fan of crazy over-the-top stuff, so I decided to go with something simple but nice looking. I decided to incorporate a lot of horizontal lines across the length of the body.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77636360@N00/216440635/ - Shiny reciever.
In the spare parts bin I had a couple little bolt-on sight rails. I decided in the interests of being unique to attach them on the very front of the body on both sides.
The ball detent presented a problem, being big and bulky and ugly, so I removed it, and milled down a slot for a Tippmann style rubber detent to be hidden underneath the right side sight rail. It was a bitch to get in there right, but it finally worked properly.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77636360@N00/216440637/ - Looking down the feed tube at the ball detent.
Still to come: I decided to stick with the stock plastic frame as long as possible, its out in the garage with a coat of paint, drying.
|08-15-2006, 10:12 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Nice looking milling job! Can't wait to see it finished.
|08-18-2006, 06:00 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Wakka wakka wakka
The gripframe finished drying, more or less. I had planned to mill out slots to insert 10-32 bolts in standard bottomline configuration in the bottom, but then I realized I dont have a spare bottomline adapter laying around. So until I track one down for cheap, Ill stick with the stock spyder bottomline.
The piece holding the frame is a 1/4-20 threaded rod. The rod has been cut down after being used to conveniently hold the frame while it dried, it protrudes out behind the trigger like the RT piston tip on a Tippmann, it just acts as a trigger stop.
I had also intended to get rid of the slop in the trigger pull on the other side, bringing the trigger back to the position just necessary for it to catch the sear. I did this by tapping the "mystery hole" in the bottom of the spyder reciever 6-32 and cutting down a bolt for it. This hole was situated perfectly over the far forward tip of the trigger, so a bolt there would be ideal for adjusting the trigger rest position.
Unfortunately, the "mystery hole" seems to have something to do with the recocking. I cant for the life of me comprehend why, since a vent there will just vent out the blowback gas, logic would dictate that plugging the hole would intensify the blowback effect. But real-world won, the gun absolutely would not recock with that hole plugged. And yes, the bolt I used did not protrude into the bottom tube.
So the bolt was removed, and viola, the gun recocks again, although not reliably at all. Im beginning to see where the spyder reputation for finicky performance comes from. Ive never dealt with a gun this absolutely nit-picky before.
I reassembled the reciever while the frame dried, and it looked great.
And finally I put it all back together to get a sense of the overall look.
Notice the 10-32 nuts being used as spacers on both ends of the drop. The hogue grips hang off the bottom of the nonstandard spyder .45 frame, so the spacers are necessary to make it all fit. Of course the length of the bolts means a small spacer is the limit, I didnt have any cut and ready to go, and I didnt have any longer length silly metric screws.
The nut spacers on the other end of the drop are necessary because of the hose length too. I wanted to make use of this quick disconnect, but I lack a braided hose in just the perfect length for this. I have this stock hose as pictured, and a couple smaller ones, but not whatever the mysterious perfect size is.
Not sure what more to come, Im just flying by ear here.
|08-18-2006, 11:44 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brandon, Florida
About that 'mystery hole'...
It's not obvious why it's there, but the truth is that it helps firing by venting air.
The bolt builds up a cushion of air as it slams forward--sometimes enough that it slows it too much to allow it to depress the valve pin hard enough. Thus, the valve isn't open long enough to recock itself.
Learned that way back in the day. Just thought I should share.
|08-19-2006, 01:36 AM||#7 (permalink)|
Wakka wakka wakka
Ahhhh very interesting...Thanks for the info.
Heres a nice "artsy" pic of the gun
|08-19-2006, 01:41 AM||#8 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Woods Cross, Utah
That seriously looks great!! I have a question about the stripping solution you made...can i get a detail on what ratio you used?
Visit my new group page at http://www.facebook.com/JonesGunWorks#!/JonesGunWorks
|Thread Tools||Search this Thread|