Merlin Extrusion --> Working Gun - Page 2

TREYisRAD · 12-14-2007, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Railgun

Trey, no disrespect but I gather from your other posts recently that you don't even have any of the machines yet. And from this as well as the other posts I'm suspecting that you've done little if any machining. I'd suggest you start with something a bit less complex before you tackle making a gun from scratch. There's a lot to learn before you begin on a big multi step machining project. There's a lot more to machining metal than just having a drawing and chewing away the scrap until the hunk of metal looks like the drawing.

Oh, I know. I plan on starting with 1/2 blocking spyder bodies, some cocker stuff and after i'm more experienced i'll try to make a gun. I just want to know how feasible it is, and what i should know when i do decide to do it.

Railgun · 12-21-2007, 02:24 AM

Oh yes! It is definetly feasible. And starting with some options like that and making your own drop forwards and other bits and pieces is a great way to learn.

Often actually cutting the metal is the easy part. The hard part is setting up the machines and ordering the cuts in such a way that you don't paint yourself into a corner.

But keep in mind when ordering machines that you need to get them large enough to actually accept the tooling and body blanks. For example a nice way to mill out the extrusion bores to ensure the two holes are properley spaced and axially parallel to each other is a long boring shaft supported in the head stock of a lathe and the tail stock and with a single point fly cutter close to the middle. The body blank is then threaded over the shaft and clamped to a jig mounted to the carraige. You run the carraige along so this single point boring setup machines out the body to the size you preset using test bits of metal. Then you rethread it through the other bore and bore the second hole having moved the cross feed forward by the correct measurement. Done this way and with consistent clamping to index the body the two holes will be accurately sized and very accurately parallel to each other. At that point a hand reamer will finish them off and leave a nice surface ready for the last step of polishing to a nice shiney finish.

If you've got a good library near you then check them out for some books on machining basics. My own local bigger library has 8 or 10 excellent ones.

pump · 12-26-2007, 10:29 PM

hey if you need rams that would also move the bolt, B2K rams can be had for cheep on ICDO, i got extra as well

ShadowGuy · 07-06-2008, 02:38 AM

So let's say I just took a newly purchased viking took everything from it except the body and put it into the merlin (extrusion). Put the SCM from the left tube onto the new bottom tube. Could I just mount (with gasket) the noid where it normally would (under the ram, in the tray) and just have a single airline run into the noid from the SCM? Where would I have the out for the SCM that is lead to the noid (the airline would run through the tray)? Is there anyway I can avoid using airlines in a project like this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cunha

You need to copy a viking, Sans the drivers side tube.

Use a viking ram, mount the solenoid strait on the bottom of the extrusion and rout airlines (toughest part)

Space the merlin / viking valve exactly the same way the viking does, LPR on the front that puts air to the solenoid, vertical adapter. Trigger frame to hold board, solenoid, and battery.

Good luck.

Its really simple if you know the way the gun works, hard part will be mounting the solenoid.

Look at any bushmaster, intimidator, viking, ego, cyborg, or other 2 tube poppet valved gun to understand the operation. I am sure there is a GIF diagram of those guns. Poke through pbnation. Maybe even here.

Lower end guns like the bushmaster BKO and DP fusion use a spring to return the ram, versus air from the solenoid. Though, they work pretty much the same.

Chops · 07-07-2008, 08:29 PM

Im working on a similar project, and lets just say think everything through before you cut/drill. I dont even know how many hours I have spent starring at the extrusion trying to figure out would work and what wouldnt. I've already scrapped one extrusion and I dont want to do it again.

ShadowGuy · 07-08-2008, 01:48 AM

I asked Andy ('ydna' of zdspb.com) for some help and he sent me this image...

That has helped me a lot to understanding the viking, which isn't exactly the same but pretty close.

12-21-2007, 02:24 AM	#12 (permalink)
Railgun MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 2,178	Oh yes! It is definetly feasible. And starting with some options like that and making your own drop forwards and other bits and pieces is a great way to learn. Often actually cutting the metal is the easy part. The hard part is setting up the machines and ordering the cuts in such a way that you don't paint yourself into a corner. But keep in mind when ordering machines that you need to get them large enough to actually accept the tooling and body blanks. For example a nice way to mill out the extrusion bores to ensure the two holes are properley spaced and axially parallel to each other is a long boring shaft supported in the head stock of a lathe and the tail stock and with a single point fly cutter close to the middle. The body blank is then threaded over the shaft and clamped to a jig mounted to the carraige. You run the carraige along so this single point boring setup machines out the body to the size you preset using test bits of metal. Then you rethread it through the other bore and bore the second hole having moved the cross feed forward by the correct measurement. Done this way and with consistent clamping to index the body the two holes will be accurately sized and very accurately parallel to each other. At that point a hand reamer will finish them off and leave a nice surface ready for the last step of polishing to a nice shiney finish. If you've got a good library near you then check them out for some books on machining basics. My own local bigger library has 8 or 10 excellent ones. __________________ Witty saying to be plagarized soon.....

12-26-2007, 10:29 PM	#13 (permalink)
pump Seasoned Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: under Kapiolani on ramp Posts: 629	hey if you need rams that would also move the bolt, B2K rams can be had for cheep on ICDO, i got extra as well __________________ Hawaiipb.com Hawaii's Paintball forum NIB Warp Feeds FS Autotriggers for Sliders and Dye Pivots FS

07-07-2008, 08:29 PM	#15 (permalink)
Chops Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 2	Im working on a similar project, and lets just say think everything through before you cut/drill. I dont even know how many hours I have spent starring at the extrusion trying to figure out would work and what wouldnt. I've already scrapped one extrusion and I dont want to do it again. Last edited by Chops; 07-07-2008 at 08:38 PM.

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07-08-2008, 01:48 AM	#16 (permalink)
ShadowGuy Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Okinawa Posts: 16	I asked Andy ('ydna' of zdspb.com) for some help and he sent me this image... That has helped me a lot to understanding the viking, which isn't exactly the same but pretty close.