Custom

[drg]

Thrashed on mine last night and looks like I got it working. More testing tonight -- your writeup was very helpful!

Only had to fix one thing, the membrane wiring on my board is different from yours:

BOARD - MEMBRANE HARNESS
ORANGE - WHITE
YELLOW - RED
RED - BLACK

I used an Angel LCD frame ... not my first choice but it is positively cavernous inside!

As for the T-board kit, it's an amazing piece of kit for $60. Very complete. Takes a good amount of work to get it going, and some fine soldering, but Scenario Dreams is putting out a heck of a product for a very reasonable price.

I only wish the LED wouldn't be on all the time ... lol

[drg]

Ok, tuned in with a semi-fresh battery ... my settings, based on yours:

All default except:

Dwell - 6ms
Debounce - 20ms
Shot queuing - OFF

[hvacman250]

Heres one Im doing for a customer on an 86 frame. He will be able to use his stock panels.





And here is my CCM 45 frame:

As you can see, I mounted my board up top. Did the countersunk membrane pad and LED, even put a 2200 uf cap in it. MQ2 shoots perfect at 4 ms.
The 2 holes by the old sear pin are screw for my trigger switch.






The SD board is a killer deal, but requires lots and lots of soldering.

[drg]

It sure does take a lot of soldering. I can't believe SD is only charging 35 to install it.

[Cleric]

Well I got to shoot jt526's MQ'ed SS-25 yesterday at our pump meet and that thing is ball on ball accurate at blazing speeds. A real nice custom setup that works great!

[jt526]

hvacman250, both look great. That 45* is phenomenal. Nice to have the cap also. I take it you milled out most of the upper interior through the top to route the wires, and fit the cap in? I've been wondering about the boards performance without cap on a true cocker. Firing off the MQ and the noid might strain the system without the cap in place at high ROF. Looks fantastic.

[hvacman250]

Damon at SD suggests caps on ALL boards, so I took his advice. Its a tight fit, but hopefully it betters the performance of the board and gets better battery life.

And I did take ALOT of meat out of the frame. Anywhere I could take metal away without being seen, I did. It was a fun project.

Originally Posted by jt526

hvacman250, both look great. That 45* is phenomenal. Nice to have the cap also. I take it you milled out most of the upper interior through the top to route the wires, and fit the cap in? I've been wondering about the boards performance without cap on a true cocker. Firing off the MQ and the noid might strain the system without the cap in place at high ROF. Looks fantastic.

[DocRock]

Smurf is your AT working with the MQ and board in? I'm hoping we can get the switch set in there so when the AT rocks back it triggers the microswitch.

[jt526]

Originally Posted by DocRock

Smurf is your AT working with the MQ and board in? I'm hoping we can get the switch set in there so when the AT rocks back it triggers the microswitch.

DocRock, not sure which frame you are referring to, but either one of the ones hvac posted looks like clearances in the frame will allow the autotrigger to work as normal, forcing the trigger off the switch until the pump goes forward. Mine works great. I suppose it would be possible to mount the switch in such a way that it would block the autotrigger hole, but as long as you don't do that, the autotrigger is the same as always. With the MQ, you can also set the timing of the breech closed /firing cycle much closer than with the mechanical hammer since you don't have to account for hammer lag.

[hvacman250]

Originally Posted by DocRock

Smurf is your AT working with the MQ and board in? I'm hoping we can get the switch set in there so when the AT rocks back it triggers the microswitch.

Havent tried yet; should be easy with some tweaking.