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| Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here! |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 16
| Right feed half block /custom pump need info ![]() I want to half block this autococker body and put a dye hinge frame,and a build a pump kit. I will be doing the halfblock by myself and I need a little bit of info. I have drawn up plans already on the pump kit but any info or dimensions or a guide to building a pump kit for it would be useful I need the dimensions for a block i will be able to make it. I will have access to milling machine's, lathes,bandsaws, and tig welders. I have the guide to halfblocking and i will be to make everything needed i just need some dimensions of the block and bolts. I want to only produce one of these i want the pump and bolt and block to be custom. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Maryland
Posts: 495
| On all the sleds/bolts I've made I used this: 1. Cut the body using joshes specs 2. Make a bolt blank (Diameter, air passages, but no bolt pin hole, or detent hole. And leave the bolt a litle long in the back) 3. Measure the spacing between the bolt in the bore, and lower tube 4. Make a beefy sled thats the thickness I got from "3." and wraps the tube of the body 5. Then I measure the back of the top tube, to the start of the slot (Should be .250" if you are using Joshes specs) then add half of the pill-pin diameter plus about .020" so the pin isn't slamming into the front of the slot. 6. With the size I got from "5." I drill the pull pin hole in the sled 7. Next I stick the bolt in the tube and looking down the front of the body I line the bolt up where I want it to end. I like about a 1/8" before where the barrel threads start. After I do that I cut a tiny scribe mark on the bolt where it ends with the back of the tube. Then from that scribe mark I add another mark thats the distance I got from "5." back. Thats where I drill the hole in the bolt for the pull-pin (Note: Make sure the pull-pin hole is lined up with the air passage. If you want, you can wait and drill them both at the same time). 8. Next I put the detent in the bolt, and cut it to proper length. 9. Next I drill the hole in the sled. Unlike most who make the sled around the pump arm, I do it the other way around. Reason being that in most cases you only end up with about .030" of wall space around the pump arm hle. Thats not enough IMO. 10. Now that the sled is ready, I cut all extra meat off. 11. Now I have to make the pump arm. If this is a cocker, and you drill the sled hole in the right place, all you need is a straight rod. The internal threads for the ram are 6-32, and the sled should be 10-32 if thats what you use. To get the length, with the ram, and sled all the way forward, measure the distance between them. Then add about 5/8" to that for the sled threads, and about a 1/2" for the ram threads. When threading for the ram, over thread that as much as you can as this will be where you are getting all your adjustment from. 11B. If you are doing a rod for a sniper, you'll need male 10-32 threads on both ends. With the pump arm resting in the forward position, and the sled all the way forward measure the distance. Then add 5/8" for the sled, and with a depth gauge (A stick, and your finger nail works) figure out how deep the hole is. Add those three numbers together and you have the length you need. On a sniper you will most likely need to put a slight bend in it. In this case I'd thread the pump handle end first, bend it (with heat), screw it in, measure the distance to the sled, mark it, cut it (making sure to leave the extra 5/8" for threads), then thread it. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...r/100_4201.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...r/100_4175.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...r/100_4202.jpg Hope that made sense. forgive any grammar errors! Edit, Forgot. For the pull pin I use timmy pins. Though a stainless, brass, or aluminum one could be made very easy.
__________________ Last edited by Altec; 04-14-2008 at 12:05 AM. |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 16
| Finished the half block, messed up the feed neck area and had to tig weld the feed neck but it looks cleaner now and i will be making the sled on monday. Tues day i plan on working on the pump handle plate and the pump arm. And ill finish by the end of the week. I will clean it up and polish before it gets annoed and post pics before and after anno. Thanks for the advice |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 16
| PICTURES ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Give me some input, i think im going to keep on sanding on the sides for a rounder look. I had to do some creative work with the tig welder but its already very light. Last edited by Freedom_paintballer; 04-19-2008 at 03:31 PM. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 94
| Is it just the picture or does the back slop downwards towards the IVG in the last picture? What did you use to do the conversion? The sanding looks nice and really smooths out the feedneck area but I'd avoid rounding the corners on the back and lower tube; that's just my personal preference - I like the real flat sharp edges. It's not the most technically perfect job I've seen but it should look real nice polished up and annoed Penguin |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 16
| Yeah i have a friend that does metal finishing so i may be able to get a free anno. It does slope a bit towards the back i want the back of the gun to have that smaller look to it. I want to try to round the edges in back. Ill probably just use the vertical mill to cut a round end. |
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