How do i take apart a 007? - Page 2

russc · 06-23-2008, 09:44 PM

Notice that Nelspots have a circular cutout in the sear slot - that's for pinning the sear in.

CamoDeafie · 06-23-2008, 10:07 PM

those cutouts...i always thought they were for oiling the sear assembly

Mayvik · 06-23-2008, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by russc

Notice that Nelspots have a circular cutout in the sear slot - that's for pinning the sear in.

Ah, so because the pin only goes in, you can't just pop the pin back out because the other side is solid? Gotcha. Sorry, don't own a 007 (shame on me

), but could you just move the hammer and drill that "pin entry" hole through the other side, so you can pop the sear pin through? Seems like drilling a hole would be easier than cutting a slot.

russc · 06-23-2008, 10:25 PM

It looks kind of like this, cutting straight through so you can put the pin in, and out.

delete.JPG

CamoDeafie · 06-23-2008, 11:19 PM

on the examples ive owned, and including the current ones, they have them on both sides of the body

Mayvik · 06-23-2008, 11:30 PM

..so what's the point of cutting the slot then? Just not having to punch the sear pin?

russc · 06-24-2008, 12:00 AM

Dammit, another MS Paint diagram coming up!

Behold, in stunning 3D...

The reason for this piece of metal is that it houses a third valve retention hex screw, which isn't really necessary.

delete.JPG

Al Ray · 06-24-2008, 09:52 PM

Cutting the sear slot alows for eas of cleaning, and eas of changing springs.

Theres a 4 page parts schematic that I made of the 007 in my galery

jk_6109 · 06-26-2008, 04:38 PM

Alrighty, i have just about everything apart and ive sanded down about 90% of it. But along the way i came across two problems, one big and one small. The first (and smaller) problem is that i cant get the trigger pin out. I dont really need to get it out, but i would like to polish the trigger and it would make everything a lot easier. My second problem is that i may have ruined part of the gun. Today i was trying to unscrew the little thing that pierces the 12 gram and runs the co2 to the valve. I though that it would screw off, but in my it seemed like it was part of the back valve and just broke off. Will i have to buy a whole new valve? Any other uggestions?

russc · 06-26-2008, 04:44 PM

You're pretty much going to have to get a whole new valve body, especially if there are threads still inside the body. The pierce assemblies can be unscrewed, but there isn't really any good reason to do it since they are so fragile. You may as well pick up a dropout valve or donkey style ASA valve.

06-23-2008, 09:44 PM	#11 (permalink)
russc MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 4,256	Notice that Nelspots have a circular cutout in the sear slot - that's for pinning the sear in. __________________ YouTube Channel / Raincouver! / Gallery / Feedback / Blackleaf Outfitters -Russ

06-23-2008, 10:07 PM	#12 (permalink)
CamoDeafie nelson fanboy Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monmouth, Oregon Posts: 1,455	those cutouts...i always thought they were for oiling the sear assembly __________________ nothing like the heft of steel nelspots

06-23-2008, 10:25 PM	#14 (permalink)
russc MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 4,256	It looks kind of like this, cutting straight through so you can put the pin in, and out. delete.JPG __________________ YouTube Channel / Raincouver! / Gallery / Feedback / Blackleaf Outfitters -Russ

06-23-2008, 11:19 PM	#15 (permalink)
CamoDeafie nelson fanboy Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monmouth, Oregon Posts: 1,455	on the examples ive owned, and including the current ones, they have them on both sides of the body __________________ nothing like the heft of steel nelspots

06-24-2008, 12:00 AM	#17 (permalink)
russc MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 4,256	Dammit, another MS Paint diagram coming up! Behold, in stunning 3D... The reason for this piece of metal is that it houses a third valve retention hex screw, which isn't really necessary. delete.JPG __________________ YouTube Channel / Raincouver! / Gallery / Feedback / Blackleaf Outfitters -Russ

06-24-2008, 09:52 PM	#18 (permalink)
Al Ray GWC Lifetime Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Grand Junction, Colorado Posts: 2,314	Cutting the sear slot alows for eas of cleaning, and eas of changing springs. Theres a 4 page parts schematic that I made of the 007 in my galery

06-26-2008, 04:38 PM	#19 (permalink)
jk_6109 Newbie Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 5	Alrighty, i have just about everything apart and ive sanded down about 90% of it. But along the way i came across two problems, one big and one small. The first (and smaller) problem is that i cant get the trigger pin out. I dont really need to get it out, but i would like to polish the trigger and it would make everything a lot easier. My second problem is that i may have ruined part of the gun. Today i was trying to unscrew the little thing that pierces the 12 gram and runs the co2 to the valve. I though that it would screw off, but in my it seemed like it was part of the back valve and just broke off. Will i have to buy a whole new valve? Any other uggestions?

06-26-2008, 04:44 PM	#20 (permalink)
russc MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 4,256	You're pretty much going to have to get a whole new valve body, especially if there are threads still inside the body. The pierce assemblies can be unscrewed, but there isn't really any good reason to do it since they are so fragile. You may as well pick up a dropout valve or donkey style ASA valve. __________________ YouTube Channel / Raincouver! / Gallery / Feedback / Blackleaf Outfitters -Russ

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