![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
|
| Custom Projects / Custom Questions How do I customize? What do I customize? What do I use? Share you experiences and faults here! |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| | #1 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 56
| Some questions on a custom project Hey all, I need some advice on a project: I’m a little green when it comes to paintball guns or at least the specifics on the different models, I understand operating principles, having come from air cannoneering if it’s pneumatic I can figure it out. I’m a bit “old-school” in my preferences, I watch westerns and actually now who Gene Autry is So when I saw Tohri’s lever action Kingman Hammer Plus and Saber’s Phantom lever-gun I decided I wanted to make me one. Now with that established I have a bunch of questions, as any greenhorn would: What gun would be the best to use as a base? I was thinking something like a Sheridan PGP, but that would require a LOT of custom fabrication. Plan B is a Trracer, as they’re cheap. Plan C is a Phantom, as I know that it’ll work. If you can think of a better candidate let me know. I’d like to use a Sheridan, what all will need to be done, and where can I get the parts, to convert it to a rifle length? Better question, is it possible without a milling machine and/or a lathe? If the Sheridan is going to take a lot of effort I think I’ll just hold off on a Sheridan until I have a bit more experience and go with some other gun for a base. Which leads me back to my first question, what gun would make the best base for this project? Also, where do you guys get your wood at, I can’t find walnut for the life of me? I’ve got more questions, but we’ll start with these as all the rest depend on which gun I use. Thanks all! |
| | |
| | #2 (permalink) |
| Active Member | Honestly, the sheridan models aren't as hard as you would think. BrettG did some awesome lever kits with sheridan based guns. The trickiest part I would think was the mod to the wood for the lever mount. While very sturdy and professional looking, to do it without some good machinery might prove a bit difficult. What I can recall of the sheridan levers I've seen, the top of the lever where it does the re-cocking and feeding is connected to a bit of pump rod which in turn is attached to the bolt of the sheridan marker. Looked like it was about two inches long maybe? I would think it would need to be a pretty straight push from the lever mount to the bolt as well. I'm still working on a bolt action pirate pistol so I'm not even going to go into the research and development of yet another project...like a pneu-assist raptor pump gun or something. |
| | |
| | #3 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 56
| Well I’ve been doing some lookin’ and I believe I will use a Sheridan as a base, unless somebody can give me a good reason not to. The actual lever action part is easy, for me at least, as I can pretty much figure out every thing I need to know from pictures; I’ve already got a couple of ideas on how to do it. Wood’s fairly easy too; I’ll just have to by/make me some inletting tools. Only thing is, I can’t find walnut… Thanks Stainlessbutcher! Since I can’t find one of the long-gun Sheridans (k series?) I figured I’d just convert a PGP. I think I’ve got a good idea of what’s needed: I’ll need a new: valve tube barrel tube feed tube longer feed spring and a new trigger group did I miss anything? Thanks again! |
| | |
| | #7 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 474
| Personally, I like nelsons. Then again, I have a love for ALL single tubed guns. That being said, A lever action nellie can be done pretty simply, and look great. With a sheridan, you need to mill a trigger group and Faux grip to mount it to the wood, or have some other form of mounting. I really prefer this kingman: Conversion to top tube is easy, internals are nice, takes common barrel threads, etc. But the traccer and phantom have their own nice advantages and disadvantages. Traccer has a detent and a sidecocking bolt, and they're cheap, and good quality. The phantom has more bolt on feed and barrel options, but is expensive, and somewhat diffacult to configure to a lever action platform. As for wood stocks, firearm factory stocks tend to work well, but if you have the skills, order up a blank, or even just a 2X6 and set in on it with a jigsaw and router. I've found the best starter results come from being realistic with regards to what you can accomplish on a first try, and from using as many off the shelf components as possible, at least for your first few builds. And with that, good luck! |
| | |
| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 56
| Quote:
…brass… ![]() ![]() Anyways… that Kingman Hammer looks promising, particularly since it uses Spyder barrel threads, I think I’ll convert one of those first, that way I'll have a good gun to use well I’m building my custom Sheridan, not to mention the experience. Now all I need to do is find a Hammer… oh, and a bit of cash… Thanks guys! ****UPDATE**** Well I’ve been doing some reading and thinking and I decided that I’m going to go with a Sheridan. My plan is, rather than one BIG project, I’ll do four smaller ones: 1.) Buy and restore a used PGP. 2.) Solder up a new, longer, body (valve tube, barrel, and magazine/loader tube) and put PGP guts into it; ending up with a Buntline PGP. 3.) Build trigger group and other required parts to convert the Buntline PGP to a K series style pump-gun and do the conversion. 4.) Build lever-action conversion and install on Buntline PGP/K-series pump-gun. DONE Since after each step the gun is usable I never have to worry about it just sitting there waiting for me to get enough money to go on. I also don’t have to worry as much about my ADHD stopping me from getting it done. Now I just have a few questions: What model of PGP would be best for this conversion? ***EDIT*** after doing farther researching I have found that the cartridge valve is easier to remove, so would going with a 2k model PGP be a good idea? My biggest concern is removing the valve from the old valve tube and putting it in the new one, what all is required for this? ***EDIT*** if I go with a 2k model all I need to do is put the front grip frame screw hole in the correct place to install it in the new valve tube, correct? Second biggest is the Co2, the brass tube won’t come threaded for a cap, and the cap off the PGP won’t have the long rod to push the Co2 powerlet into the valve, so any suggestions on how to remedy this problem? Will one 12g powerlet be enough to get 24 good shots, or will I need to use two powerlets? Is there anything else important I should know about soldering up a new body? Thanks again! Last edited by TheJudge; 06-25-2008 at 05:54 PM. Reason: I was bit by the Brass Bug… | |
| | |
| | #9 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 113
| Hmm, let's see... You might look into picking up a K-series hammer for your PGP. Rainman has some made, so that you can get your PGP to accept a K-series trigger group. Big Matt from Madd Customs uses replica KP stocks in his Mag rifles, I believe. You might talk to him about getting a stock for your marker. On your CO2 issue, I can see a few options: A- Thread the end of the tube and fabricate a longer rod to push the 12ie into place. B- Tap an air fitting into the valve-train and run remote. C- Place a Vert ASA into the marker like some of the Palmer's markers and run on a small CO2 or HPA tank. D- Fashion a drop-out changer into the tube closer to the valving, so you won't need to take up all that space or worry with getting the occasional 12ie out of the long tube Hope this helps, and welcome to MCB! Hatchet Last edited by Hatchet; 06-26-2008 at 10:34 PM. |
| | |
![]() |
|
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|