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[desertT1]

I had a Dragun 'The One' that has not worked for quite a while. Instead of tossing it I wanted to make a project out of it. The goal was to get it shooting and go from there. The original inspiration came from seeing a few pneumags, knowing that this would work a little different.



This is what it looks like overall. Since it is so long I picked up a 10" .689 barrel (as it is Spyder threaded) to shorten the profile a little. The Ergo reg works in the approximate range that the marker did, so it was a cheap option. The LPR is a non-adjustable WGP reg and puts out too high of a pressure, so it will be replaced in the near future.



I had to grind off a post in the 2k2 Intimidator frame so that the MSV-2 could get close enough to the trigger. I also drilled two holes in the frame so that I could use a 6-32 nut/bolt package to hold the MSV in place. The bolts were leftover from another project and at 1/2" they are too short, I'll be getting 3/4" bolts today and ensure that MSV doesn't slide off.


There is a fair amount of excess red tubing and that will be shortened. As is I need to rotate the end cap to slide it off it can't be too short.


Anyone who's ever seen a T1 knows that the backside of the ram has a larger surface area and a pretty heavy ram. I found a spring at ACE (#25) with the exact length and diameter as the stock return spring, but had to butcher it for return springs for two snipers. I'll go get another one because it was much lighter. Back when Draguns were actually used people used to have their rams turned down to save some weight. If the opportunity presents itself I'll do that as well. The lighter spring and the lighter ram might work well together.

[dukie]

If that LPR is the model that can be unscrewed into 3 pieces, it is adjustable inside to a limited extent. If you unscrew the section holding the 1/8" pipe fitting ( the HP side) you will find an aluminum bit with a screw driver slot in it. If I remember correctly, screw it in to increase pressure, and out to reduce it. You can't adust it to far out because it stops the cap from going back on all the way



Lookin pretty nifty. Put some video up when you get it running

[Altec]

The old WGP LPR's are in to lower, out to raise.

[desertT1]

It is an adjustable reg, but it is on the inside. It's not the most convenient method of tuning it. I'll work on a video a little later. It won't be of it shooting paint, but I'll see what else I can get on it.

[dukie]

Originally Posted by Altec

The old WGP LPR's are in to lower, out to raise.

Your right, my fingers are working faster than my brain!

[desertT1]

Here are some progress pics.

Got longer bolts:


This is how it stays in place:


Stock spring on top, new one on bottom:

The new spring is .04x" on my cheap digital mic and the stock one is .05x" on it. I stretched the new one out a little bit and it works quite well now. Unstretched it was fully extended and could rattle just a bit inside the marker. Now it takes up all the space and moves the ram back with a little more haste.

Stock ram:


How I would like mine to look:

I'll take dimensions first and model it so if I break it somehow I can have a replacement made up.

[dukie]

Ok now I am puzzled. How does that marker seal up? it has a big old sear slot in the bottom of the body. Isn't that the ram and spring visible throught the slot in the bottom of the body?

[Havocx]

There is a ram sleeve that seals the rammer and if you look at the lightened rammer it has extra o rings to seal the body making the T1 better on air.. or in principle

Other Fasor's use a stack tube design with a sealed bottom tube so O rings on the rammer aren't required.

[desertT1]

Originally Posted by dukie

Ok now I am puzzled. How does that marker seal up? it has a big old sear slot in the bottom of the body. Isn't that the ram and spring visible throught the slot in the bottom of the body?

It is, but the T1 is designed a little different than other FASORs. The end cap and the sleeve are the same piece. The thicker part presses up against the spring and rest inside the lower tube just like the hammer of an autococker. The o-ring that touches the thicker section is there to cushion the blow of the ram returning to rest, it serves no sealing purpose in this marker. The very back o-ring is what seals against the sleeve. In the lightened ram the two new o-rings are there to reduce the wear of the body.

Here's how the lower tube is situated.

At rest:


Shooting:

(Obviously the spring would be compressed inside the marker)

[DeTrevni]

How are you going to control velocity and dwell? The problem with this kind of setup, and the only think keeping me from doing this to my markers, is that how long you hold the trigger down affects the velocity, for as long as the trigger is the depress, the hammer will be depressing the valve.