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Old 10-09-2006, 01:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hmm... curious... the pics are quite small (10-20 Kb). The server of that source site is located in middle Europe and he is perhaps not build to offer the data to US. Sorry.
i've had trouble too getting your pics to open. even with some of your other posts where you posted links to pics. they were real slow to load if they loaded at all.
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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emerald wolf-thanks for the advice and yes i will remember to take the guts out it leaks to i guess so i'll end up taking them out anyways

for the patch what i was going todo was put a wood dowel down the bottom tube put the patch on and then bend it and solder it (hopeing the wood doesnt catch fire maybe i can soak it first but that might make problems for the solder)
The wood dowel will probably burn unless soaked. The other problem you might run into is that it might "suck" heat away from the joint (ever try soldering a pipe with water in it? You might try a steel rod. Solder with out the right flux doesn't stick to steel (esp. if you use the 95/5 that KidneyTheif is talking about....Zinc Chloride doesn't do it for steel)

Catchya on the Flip Side.....

Emerald Wolf -- argh...
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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When you are the God then you can make perfect joints every time. But otherwise, there is some light cleaning necessary. And the main reason why I use the grinding wool and the lap compound is get away the oxidation surface - when you with heat up the brass and then cool it and wash the remains of soldering paste with watter, you will have never so nice finish as after polishing. And light polishing do not affect the joint.
Being a "god" has nothing to do with it...I was mearly alluding to the fact that practice makes perfect. I have have seen some pretty ugly solder jobs around these parts from folks that should be capable. Also, as stated before, if your grinding excess solder off the joint once finished you have done the job improperly. Polishing is a finishing step for the entire project.

-Jake
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Old 10-13-2006, 07:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Polishing is a finishing step for the entire project.
I do not see the difference between your and my statement. What else it should be than finishing step?
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Old 10-13-2006, 09:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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"Finish" as in prep before you finish the gun...(paint, plate or polish) I am talking about sanding, filing or otherwise grinding the solder to make the lines look clean.

-Jake
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I just soldered on a side tube a few hours ago, used flux abunch of flux in the joint, 60/40? resin core solder, and a propane torch. Apply abunch of flux to the crack between the tubes, wipe off excess, heat pipes with propane torch, apply solder.
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Old 10-14-2006, 02:26 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I just soldered on a side tube a few hours ago, used flux abunch of flux in the joint, 60/40? resin core solder, and a propane torch. Apply abunch of flux to the crack between the tubes, wipe off excess, heat pipes with propane torch, apply solder.
Usually you don't have to use flux core with paste flux....But what ever works

Catchya on the Flip Side.....

Emerald Wolf -- If you add solder sparingly, and "walk" it with the torch (solder draws to the flame) you'll get a cleaner job....but it takes practice....
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Usually you don't have to use flux core with paste flux....But what ever works
Oh well, whatever works right? It turned out pretty clean for my first solder job tha I attemted to do well. All the others have been plumbing.
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Old 10-27-2006, 06:37 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I had a quick Q. If I where to start soddering, would I need to use a actual accetline torch? Would a soddering gun be acceptable?

I have plenty of experenice in how to weld, and do it with an Accetline and Oxygen flame, but I wouldnt think that you would need the heat of Accetline to melt something of such a low metling temp as sodder.
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Old 10-27-2006, 11:32 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I had a quick Q. If I where to start soddering, would I need to use a actual accetline torch? Would a soddering gun be acceptable?

I have plenty of experenice in how to weld, and do it with an Accetline and Oxygen flame, but I wouldnt think that you would need the heat of Accetline to melt something of such a low metling temp as sodder.

Mapp and Propane will be more appropriate...I would however suggest Mapp over propane for any type of Silver soldering you plan to do. You can aquire the right torch tip and canister at any Norco or hardware store for less than $50.00.

Oxy/acetaline would be overkill for your average person to solder with. But, an expirienced Brazer/welder would appreciate the added heat range with oxy/acet. You would want to be thoroughly confident in your heat application skills I reduced a piece brass to a molten pile of goop with oxy/acet my first time...

You will definatly not want to use a soldering Iron...

-Jake
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