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Old 10-07-2006, 10:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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brass and soldering.....

well my pirate pistol should come in the mail soon and im going to patch the hole in the side and add a direct feed

im just wondering how everyone else solders ive always used a torch and whatever sticks of solder are around and then cleaned up whatever needed to be after with the dremel or grinder

so any tips would be good
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Old 10-08-2006, 03:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Eric, do you have a DF neck thing? Because, I have a DF neck off of a MPI-1 that is just sitting on my desk.

BTW, plenty of flux will help. Not sure what kind, I dont have those supplies handy, unfortunately.

But, yea, be sure to use plenty of flux and clean the crap out of it.
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Old 10-08-2006, 03:34 AM   #3 (permalink)
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For soldering I use 6kw Propan-butan torch, 1,5mm thick Sn60Pb40 tube melting-iron and soldering paste for electronics (DIN 8511 type F-LW3). For the preparation and cleaning work watter, dremel with small cutting disk (axially), grinding woolfell, polishing lap compound and oil. You can make that with other tools but I think that these are the best tools for this work.

There are some pics from my surgery on PGP:

Before operation:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PG..._rozpajeni.jpg

During operation:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PGP/02-rozpajeno.jpg
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PGP/03-rozpajeno.jpg
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PG...o_k_pajeni.jpg

After resoldering:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PGP/05-spajeno.jpg

After polishing with grinding woolfell:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PG..._lesteno_1.jpg

After finishing polishing with lap conpound:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PG..._lesteno_2.jpg
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Personally...I would use at least mapp (acetylene if you have that), use Silvaloy 15 solder, and the appropriate flux...Esp. if you're patching holes. I've just had better luck with Silvaloy with the unsupported patch thing....So much depends on you joint design. Solder and flush/butt joints just doesn't work good. Lap joints on the other hand, are nigh indestuctible and pretty easy with any solder (use 60/40 with zinc chloride paste flux [plumbing flux])

Main basic things...clean everything, if you do a lap patch leave some texture, use plenty of flux, don't over heat it. Almost forgot TAKE THE GUTS OUT FIRST....

Good luck

Catchya on the Flip Side.....

Emerald Wolf -- needs to get around to finishing the CroMo PGP...
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Old 10-08-2006, 12:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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3022-only the second to last picture works for me

frontier bill-i dont have a direct feed piece made up but i was going to and make it super low(cut a hopper to fit super low to) so i could make up a stock class feed to go on it if i ever wanted and it wouldnt be 10 feet up in the air

emerald wolf-thanks for the advice and yes i will remember to take the guts out it leaks to i guess so i'll end up taking them out anyways

for the patch what i was going todo was put a wood dowel down the bottom tube put the patch on and then bend it and solder it (hopeing the wood doesnt catch fire maybe i can soak it first but that might make problems for the solder)
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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3022-only the second to last picture works for me
Interesting. I have no problems with them.
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Old 10-08-2006, 06:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ok i opened them all up and let them sit and it took a good 5 minutes for them to load
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Old 10-09-2006, 03:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I use a 5% silver 95% tin solder with the appropriate flux. A mapp torch with a #5 tip.

When soldering you should never have to do any grinding or clean-up to the joint for it to look good. The solder should be drawn into the joint and be literally invisible once its said and done.

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Old 10-09-2006, 02:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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ok i opened them all up and let them sit and it took a good 5 minutes for them to load
Hmm... curious... the pics are quite small (10-20 Kb). The server of that source site is located in middle Europe and he is perhaps not build to offer the data to US. Sorry.
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Old 10-09-2006, 02:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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When soldering you should never have to do any grinding or clean-up to the joint for it to look good. The solder should be drawn into the joint and be literally invisible once its said and done.
When you are the God then you can make perfect joints every time. But otherwise, there is some light cleaning necessary. And the main reason why I use the grinding wool and the lap compound is get away the oxidation surface - when you with heat up the brass and then cool it and wash the remains of soldering paste with watter, you will have never so nice finish as after polishing. And light polishing do not affect the joint.
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