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Old 11-03-2006, 05:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Yeah, I think it was an epoxy. It was pretty tough stuff that was a lot like bed liner.

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I don't think I'd like bed-liner though, I want a tough glossy finish that will stand up to paintball hits and to the weather! I wonder if I should finish it before or after sending it to Palmers. I may have to have Palmers build the Nasty and then insert it in the stock myself...
I think you have to make a choice between durablilty and gloss, you can't have the extream of both at the same time. Something like a bed liner is tough as nails, but doesnt' have the smooth, glossy finish (I haven't looked at all brands though, there might be a gloss finish out there). Using laquer to get the gloss with give you the best look IMO, but any nicks, scratches, or dents will show up like they are lit in neon. You have to choose which is more important and work from there.
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:39 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I wonder if I should finish it before or after sending it to Palmers. I may have to have Palmers build the Nasty and then insert it in the stock myself...
Personally, I'd finish it after PPS worked their magic. Remember, for a hurc, they're going to have to make some cuts. You go to all that trouble to get the finish the way you want and they're going to drill, mill, cut it however they need to make things fit and you'll be left with some bare wood visible. Matching the finish on those bare spots is going to drive you nuts. So, I'd send them the stock & trigger parts, let them have their way with it, then go nuts on the finish after all the mechanics are done.

Actually, that's exactly what I did with my KP2. I wanted to refinish the stock in a matte or satin black, but also wanted a vertical ASA installed, meaning they'll have to drill a hole through it. When (if?) I get it back, I'll strip the stock and soak it in black stain for a month or so, then lay on a few dozen coats of satin poly.

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Old 11-03-2006, 07:53 PM   #33 (permalink)
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There's black stain? Never seen it. That would be a great solution to this though. I could sand and buff the stock to my heart's content, then give it some whopping coats of stain, then linseed oil it! That would probably be the best solution. Thanks for the advice Wycke.
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Old 11-04-2006, 01:59 PM   #34 (permalink)
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If you can't get your hands on black stain, even dark browns, greens, or blues will look black depending upon the type of wood your stock is made out of. Only one good coat is needed, just lay it on think and let it sit for a minute before you wipe, or soak it like Wycke suggested. Repeated coats can actually lighten the finish, by pulling away stain.

I don't think you oil after staining though, the stain fills all the pores in the wood, which is also where oil would go. Laquer would be your best bet here. Get an autobody shop to spray a few coats on. Wouldn't take much effort on there part, and if it is a good shop you might be able to get something airbrushed in the finish, making it a truely personalized gun. Imagine this- the nickname for your gun ghosted into the laquer. I think that would be awsome.
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:22 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Ghosted into the lacquer? What color lacquer would you use in this case (after applying the black or dark stain in this case...)?
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Old 11-05-2006, 12:53 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Lacquer won't adhere to the wood if you apply stain first. You're also defeating the purpose. You have to choose between stain and paint. You can't do both. Ghosting is a process of adding pearl (very fine colored particals) to clear paint. With the clear paint and pearl you'd paint designs or a name or whatever you want over the primary color (in this case black). Like if you see a custom car with flames that are only visible in certain light, or the custom car that seems to change colors in different light. True ghosting is historicly done with white pearl, but is now done in just about any color you want.

If you choose to go the stain route, definately oil it after the stain has dried for a couple days. I typically use boiled linseed oil.
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Old 11-05-2006, 09:05 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Lacquer won't adhere to the wood if you apply stain first. You're also defeating the purpose. You have to choose between stain and paint. You can't do both.
I have never had a problem applying lacquer over stain, both with spray stain and wiping. I use clear gloss catalyzed lacquer, with a touch of reducer. The only thing easier is spraying untouched wood. I don't know if that stuff is available in retail though, we always got it through a paint store in large quantities. If you can't find it, try asking a cabinet or kitchen making operation to spray it, they should have plenty of experience with wood.

Dead on with the ghosting to. Make sure it is done at a reputable shop though, since nothing is worse that a bad custom spray job.
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:11 AM   #38 (permalink)
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So the ghosting would require a pro's touch? I can't just find my favorite stencil, tack it to the stock, and then spray away?!
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:41 AM   #39 (permalink)
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